So I went back to the track with the 3.73s and now after about 5 passes the car will not go into 3rd above 7k RPM. I am going to do the helper spring removal and change my clutch line fluid. What fluid should I go with and how much fluid does it take?
So now having tranny issues going into 3rd above 7k RPM
- Thread starter okc12silvergt
- Start date
Any DOT 4 syn will be fine but i went with Amsoil. One 12 ounce bottle will be more than enough for just the clutch line, but not a bad idea to bleed the brakes at this time. If you want to bleed the brakes, i would probably grab three 12 ounce bottles. Will allow you to completely suck out and clean out the brake reservoir, refill, and enough to bleed the brakes.
Are you still on the stock clutch? I know that some people (mostly with Boss mani's) that try shifting at >7k rpm on the stock clutch have issues. I think SCalla1384 ran into this problem recently and went with a dual disc clutch and that solved his problem, maybe he will come in and share is story to see if it is similar to what you are experiencing.
^^ This. I've been reading it has something to do with the pressure plate not being able to handle it.
OP did you try a stainless steel clutch line, like the one JPC sells. I heard that helps along with the whiteline trans bushing.
I have a SS clutch line, amsoil DOT 4 fluid, and the whiteline trans bushing waiting to go in. I just removed the spring and I have HIGHLY recommend the MGW shifter if you don't already have it.
I did every single thing you can do and I still had shifting problems over 6500... put a twin disk in and then it's fixed. Don't skip it, you'll regret it when your stock clutch destroys your syncros
If you want to fix it just do the clutch swap and be done with it. While your there do the line and fluid if you like.
Can anyone please explain to me how our stock clutch is messing up the syncro's, is it not fully engaging?
I doubt you have to go to a twin disc to solve the problem. A good aftermarket clutch and pressure plate should fix it.
Bad synchros are usually due to the clutch. The stock one more than likely isn't releasing all the way. This will also effect shifting at high rpm.
Bad synchros are usually due to the clutch. The stock one more than likely isn't releasing all the way. This will also effect shifting at high rpm.
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Stock clutch doesn't disengage fully at wot and high rpms. Any clutch is better but the McLeod twin makes it shift like butter. The spec twin rattles and makes all kinds of noise...
OP, are you trying to force the shifter into 3rd gear?
I've found that the best way to shift from 2nd to 3rd is let the shifter move itself back to "dead center". Quickly, using the palm of your hand, push the shifter out of 2nd gear, let the return spring center the shifter, then push it straight up into 3rd gear.
I've found that the best way to shift from 2nd to 3rd is let the shifter move itself back to "dead center". Quickly, using the palm of your hand, push the shifter out of 2nd gear, let the return spring center the shifter, then push it straight up into 3rd gear.
I have a Spec Kevlar sitting in my garage that hopefully does the trick.
I have an early 2011 (mid 2010 build date). I have done all the MT-82 fixes without even experiencing stuck pedal and lock-out issues common with these transmissions…..Only issue I had was the 1-2 grind when cold for the first mile or 2….I just wanted to get a head of the 8-ball by doing all the helpers ahead of time. The car has been perfect, but I WILL be swapping the clutch soon….not because its worn, but because of the horror stories of pressure plate bolt issues….not to mention I will be spraying the car here soon too and will need the added beef in the clutch department.
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