so I'm going on my 4th TOB in less than 1000 miles

[M4_ELITE]

I recently had a spec 2 clutch installed with a spec flywheel. About a week into it the TOB started making noise, the shop replaced the TOB w/ another spec one. And that one started making noise after a few miles after I left the shop. After reading some reviews on here I bought a Timken TOB from autozone... Got that installed yesterday. And the clutch felt amazing after I left from the mechanic. The clutch was smooth, it was not too light and not too heave like stock, disengaged at a perfect spot... I was happy as hell. 50 miles later, the TOB is making noise again!

Now I'm wondering what I should do, try a different throw out bearing, ford oem? frpp? Or is there something wrong with my clutch that messes up these throwout bearings so fast? What do you guys think? Thanks fellas.

 

[sassafras]

Do you have an aftermarket FW adjuster and the LDC freeplay mod? If not these would be wise investments. Did you replace the retainer sleeve with the McLeod or Lethal sleeve? Sounds like it isn't being adjusted right and is just being torn to hell. I could be wrong though. Don't go with the OEM one get a FRPP TOB.

 

[M4_ELITE]

I have a steeda FW adjuster on it, but no LDC freeplay. Nope, didn't replace the sleeve. Thanks for the reply.

 

[About2bite]

The FRPP is the best TOB available if adjusted right it'll last the lifetime of the clutch. Next time you get the car back, before you leave the shop have them put the car on the lift and verify the tob is not riding on the pressure plate. Pull the cover plate off the bell housing and make sure there is a 1/8"-1/4" gap between the fingers of the p/p and the tob itself. I'd also look into the LDC freeplay kit, it helps keep the tob from failing.

Josh

 

[Tractionless1]

The FRPP is the best TOB available if adjusted right it'll last the lifetime of the clutch. Next time you get the car back, before you leave the shop have them put the car on the lift and verify the tob is not riding on the pressure plate. Pull the cover plate off the bell housing and make sure there is a 1/8"-1/4" gap between the fingers of the p/p and the tob itself. I'd also look into the LDC freeplay kit, it helps keep the tob from failing.

Josh

+1 FRPP Racing TOB only!

 

[19COBRA93]

99% of the time, throwout bearing noise is not caused by the bearing itself. It's play between the bearing and the sleeve (worn sleeve), or play in the clutch cable. Get the freeplay kit from LDC and forget about it.

 

[uwood]

99% of the time, throwout bearing noise is not caused by the bearing itself. It's play between the bearing and the sleeve (worn sleeve), or play in the clutch cable. Get the freeplay kit from LDC and forget about it.

I have read quite a few posts that dispute this claim. Can you give me some more info on this?

I would love nothing more than not have to pull my trans again.

 

[About2bite]

I have read quite a few posts that dispute this claim. Can you give me some more info on this?

I would love nothing more than not have to pull my trans again.

Even if that is the case your trans will still have to come out.

I'm my cases the issue was from the tob riding on the p/p fingers and wearing it out until it began to chirp. That is caused by incorrect cable adjustment more so than anything else. Mine was caused by the p/p fingers being pushed so far back to the front of the trans that the clutch fork could not be adjusted back anymore, it was hitting the front of the transmission. I'm sure there are tons of reasons for them failing but a new sleeve and FRPP tob will definitely help with the issue.

I have freeplay kit from LDC too