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SnakebiteTVS/5%lower/8rib/11.1:1 VS 2.9 whipple/20%lower/10 rib/9.5:1-Dyno comparison
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<blockquote data-quote="olaosunt" data-source="post: 14427545" data-attributes="member: 131643"><p>Thanks guys.</p><p>To be fair, the 2.9 Whipple runs were when I had the lower compression Alluminator/hand ported heads and the Ford racing exhaust cams-with longer duration.It made the same boost as I am making now with the TVS but I assume some of the difference in torque is due to the compression ratio.</p><p>I had the whipple on for a while on the new motor with higher compression but did not get back to the dyno(I was afraid it would break my crank again).</p><p></p><p>Grnenvy-thanks a lot for the advice!-Not the one doing the wrenching but both my Ford tech and the guys at Fathouse had the same issues.They guys at cathouse spent many hours=$$$$$ labour! trying to get it right and still did not succeed.</p><p>I will definitely ask Brad( my Ford tech usual does all my work )to look at those things again.Justin@VMP also thought my tensioner and spider bracket may be bent so I got some new ones from him.The Guys at Fathouse just fabricated me a new AC damper that now has a lip on the front but Justin did not think it would work as he thought it would just shred the belt faster if it was still not aligned.This 8 rib is becoming almost as expensive my misadventure with the 2.9 whipple/10 rib(may be not quite since I have not bought a new engine yet...).Still for sale!!</p><p>Once I do the auto swap and I am sure I have maxed out the TVS or can't get the 8 rib to work properly I may be brave enough to try the Whipple again(I figure it may be less stressful on the crank with the auto but I may be wrong... If I am somebody please tell me before I go break another engine!).</p><p></p><p>Jon-yeah which should.I rarely go to Muncie as I often come back on a flat bed and the cost of tow was getting to be a killer .lol</p><p></p><p>I did drive 100 miles to Morocco as I did not want to miss out of the great DA.....But also signed on to AAA that same day..just in case.</p><p>I was thrilled( as always) when I got to drove the car home even though I was launching with the ET pro(slipping the clutch)but I was half expecting to break my rear end.lol .</p><p></p><p>I went to the O'riley race way this week and drove there on my 29 inch Hoosier slicks hoping I could get my 60 ft down to the 1.5 range.I had run them previously but they did not 60 ft well so I switched the K springs in the back to stock to see if it would help(was having clearance issues with the tall slicks as well with the lower springs).</p><p>I made a couple of passes with the pressure in the slicks at 20 psi,full hard back and full soft front with the Tokikos-without much joy.</p><p></p><p>Ran another 10.8 @133 with an even worse 60 of 1.76.I think I was still slipping the clutch given that I have little experiencing with the slicks(I tried the ET streets before and never got better than a1.60 ,previous best with the old suspension on these was 1.80)</p><p>[ATTACH=full]602752[/ATTACH]</p><p>I decided to go for broke next run,dropped the pressure to 18,revved to 4000 rpm and side stepped the clutch.</p><p>Bam! And oops! Flat bed please!(The tow guys all know me by first name now.lol.Could have bought a trailer with all my tow costs by now!</p><p>[ATTACH=full]602753[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]602754[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]602755[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]602756[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]602757[/ATTACH]</p><p>Lightning does strike twice in the same place after all!</p><p>I was not sure whether to post this or not(at least till DSS lets me know what they want to do) but figure it may help someone else.</p><p>I have an old thread when I broke the first DSS CF drive shaft( It had separated at the yolk)and will post the link if I can find it.</p><p>In fairness to DSS they were great finally warrantying that one,and sending me another. They even let me have me an aluminum while the CF was being built.</p><p>Initially though they tried to say it was the heat from the headers that caused the failure on that one but after taking pictures and viewing the underside of the car with the aluminum shaft it was not even close the exhaust .</p><p>Anyway I put on my stock drive shaft for now,so no more racing,while they decide what they(DSS) want to do .When I spoke to them on friday they were also perplexed but I am hoping they are as good as they were the last time promptly sending a replacement.</p><p>I suspect they may want to blame my car.</p><p>I am definitely NOT doing another CF(may be IT IS my car, who knows) and hope they send a replacement aluminum with a cash refund due to the difference in cost!!</p><p>The funny thing though is the car seems more responsive with the stock drive shaft and definitely less noisy.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="olaosunt, post: 14427545, member: 131643"] Thanks guys. To be fair, the 2.9 Whipple runs were when I had the lower compression Alluminator/hand ported heads and the Ford racing exhaust cams-with longer duration.It made the same boost as I am making now with the TVS but I assume some of the difference in torque is due to the compression ratio. I had the whipple on for a while on the new motor with higher compression but did not get back to the dyno(I was afraid it would break my crank again). Grnenvy-thanks a lot for the advice!-Not the one doing the wrenching but both my Ford tech and the guys at Fathouse had the same issues.They guys at cathouse spent many hours=$$$$$ labour! trying to get it right and still did not succeed. I will definitely ask Brad( my Ford tech usual does all my work )to look at those things again.Justin@VMP also thought my tensioner and spider bracket may be bent so I got some new ones from him.The Guys at Fathouse just fabricated me a new AC damper that now has a lip on the front but Justin did not think it would work as he thought it would just shred the belt faster if it was still not aligned.This 8 rib is becoming almost as expensive my misadventure with the 2.9 whipple/10 rib(may be not quite since I have not bought a new engine yet...).Still for sale!! Once I do the auto swap and I am sure I have maxed out the TVS or can't get the 8 rib to work properly I may be brave enough to try the Whipple again(I figure it may be less stressful on the crank with the auto but I may be wrong... If I am somebody please tell me before I go break another engine!). Jon-yeah which should.I rarely go to Muncie as I often come back on a flat bed and the cost of tow was getting to be a killer .lol I did drive 100 miles to Morocco as I did not want to miss out of the great DA.....But also signed on to AAA that same day..just in case. I was thrilled( as always) when I got to drove the car home even though I was launching with the ET pro(slipping the clutch)but I was half expecting to break my rear end.lol . I went to the O'riley race way this week and drove there on my 29 inch Hoosier slicks hoping I could get my 60 ft down to the 1.5 range.I had run them previously but they did not 60 ft well so I switched the K springs in the back to stock to see if it would help(was having clearance issues with the tall slicks as well with the lower springs). I made a couple of passes with the pressure in the slicks at 20 psi,full hard back and full soft front with the Tokikos-without much joy. Ran another 10.8 @133 with an even worse 60 of 1.76.I think I was still slipping the clutch given that I have little experiencing with the slicks(I tried the ET streets before and never got better than a1.60 ,previous best with the old suspension on these was 1.80) [ATTACH=full]602752[/ATTACH] I decided to go for broke next run,dropped the pressure to 18,revved to 4000 rpm and side stepped the clutch. Bam! And oops! Flat bed please!(The tow guys all know me by first name now.lol.Could have bought a trailer with all my tow costs by now! [ATTACH=full]602753[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]602754[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]602755[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]602756[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]602757[/ATTACH] Lightning does strike twice in the same place after all! I was not sure whether to post this or not(at least till DSS lets me know what they want to do) but figure it may help someone else. I have an old thread when I broke the first DSS CF drive shaft( It had separated at the yolk)and will post the link if I can find it. In fairness to DSS they were great finally warrantying that one,and sending me another. They even let me have me an aluminum while the CF was being built. Initially though they tried to say it was the heat from the headers that caused the failure on that one but after taking pictures and viewing the underside of the car with the aluminum shaft it was not even close the exhaust . Anyway I put on my stock drive shaft for now,so no more racing,while they decide what they(DSS) want to do .When I spoke to them on friday they were also perplexed but I am hoping they are as good as they were the last time promptly sending a replacement. I suspect they may want to blame my car. I am definitely NOT doing another CF(may be IT IS my car, who knows) and hope they send a replacement aluminum with a cash refund due to the difference in cost!! The funny thing though is the car seems more responsive with the stock drive shaft and definitely less noisy. [/QUOTE]
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SnakebiteTVS/5%lower/8rib/11.1:1 VS 2.9 whipple/20%lower/10 rib/9.5:1-Dyno comparison
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