Snake wants to stall--

bat-stang

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When I put the A/C on the idle drops and on occasion the car stalls. This is a mild build--outside of cleaning the IAC and/or raising the idle what else could it be?
 

racerbox77

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That can be controlled through the pcm. Quick fix would be to turn up the idle slightly, but I'm sure you know that. Good luck I see your in Houston and everytime I've been there its death without a/c
 

bat-stang

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I've been running my idle at about 1250/1300 (dash) to keep it running, only occasionally shutting down at that setting. I recently installed the electric fan and figured that the loss of the stock clutch fan load would allow me to drop my idle to about 1100 or so. I think I want to look for a PCM. This car hasn't ever idled correctly...I run the stage 1 cam from TFS and it should idle fairly stock.
 

blownfox

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I run the same cam and it never ran right until I tune it. My car idles at 900ish.
 

bat-stang

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Now that's interesting...Its been dynoed twice with before and after timing adjustments, A/F adjustments and I've had two different tuners tell me that the idle will need to be set higher. I know that the stock tach is probably off, but 300 rpms at idle? Or what else am I missing? And thanks for your replies, all! While I'm here, I've also been experiencing the rolling idle thing--especially cold. I have an air bypass do-hickey, but that only helps keep my throttle closed more (still the higher idle). Once she gets warmed up, it goes away.
 
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JG93SNAKE

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Mine will stall when I stop at a redlight if the AC is on, but I am running a X cam and idle set @ 800!!! I'd rather hear the lope than run AC anyday!!
 

04MystiCobra

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Make sure your TPS is set below 1V.
Also make sure you're setting your idle after the engine is at full operating temp and the IAC is unplugged.
Obviously check for vacum leaks.
 

blownfox

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Make sure your TPS is set below 1V.
Also make sure you're setting your idle after the engine is at full operating temp and the IAC is unplugged.
Obviously check for vacum leaks.


+1 and your tach should not be 300 RPMs at idle.
 

bat-stang

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+1 and your tach should not be 300 RPMs at idle.
I meant that it was OFF 300 at idle--or are you pulling my chain...:rolling:

My tps is set at .98 but I don't think I've ever set my idle with the IAC disconnected--I'll try. I'll check for vac leaks--my vac tree is a bit tweaked so I may have a small one that only shows at idle or while the plastic is rigid...

My mods are: Trick Flow Top End Kit (HCI, 1.6 roller rockers--complete [the360 HP setup ]) with Track Heat intake. 65 TB, K&N, long tubes, I forget which computer (its not the L), no chip, 14* timing (pill out), A/F is 12.5 to 1 but I can't remember what my fuel pressure is. I'll get my ducks in a row here so that I can help you help me. Thanks for the help guys!
 

04MystiCobra

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Unplug the IAC, start the car, allow it to get to op temps, check the TPS voltage, set timing, set idle. Shut car off, plug in IAC and restart. Thats how I've always done it. If thats not right to begin with, everything will act up. Hope this helps. :beer:

btw - I think your a/f mix is on the rich side.
Also. Cant stress enough on checking for air leaks.
 
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LEE93COBRA

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PCM isn't the issue, the overall tune is. May as well plan on getting it tuned to fix it, or raising the idle to mask it.

Richard is right. The EEC will have to be retuned so that it will idle correctly.

Years ago I had the same problem with a 'b' cam at idle with the a/c on. It would hunt for a minute at when stopped and then go dead.

Either tune it with a Tweecer R/T or get someone who is good to tune it with a chip. After that is done you should be able to get it to idle at no more than 850rpm with the a/c running
 

bat-stang

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Unplug the IAC, start the car, allow it to get to op temps, check the TPS voltage, set timing, set idle. Shut car off, plug in IAC and restart. Thats how I've always done it. If thats not right to begin with, everything will act up. Hope this helps. :beer:

btw - I think your a/f mix is on the rich side.
Also. Cant stress enough on checking for air leaks.
...when I had my last dyno session, Conley's in Houston set my timing way into the 19-21* range: the a/f was monitored/adjusted and I got no detonation. When it got hot (!) in Texas, I started to detonate and so I pulled out some timing in two stages--but (now that I remember) I did not change my fuel pressure. I am now at 15* and am processing my sitch by first adjusting my fuel pressure. I also borrowed a 73mm C&L to see if this maf will help any over my 77 Bullet. I think, as I said earlier, its going to need a bit of TuneLC.:lol1:
 

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