Is the oem still the best route for slave cylinder or go another route. I see greedy has one, does it work with the rxt twin disc clutch? I put in a new clutch at 8-9k miles and at 14k the slave must just be weak. If it sits over night or a extended amount of time I have to pull up on the clutch pedal once and pump it a couple times. It's just getting annoying and I'm worried if its actually engaging/disengaging all the way like it should be. Can you bleed any of the aftermarket slaves? This bleedless shit is :bash:
slave cylinder
- Thread starter redline5.0
- Start date
Look at it this way. at work you lift 75lbs everyday moving merchandise around. Then the next week your load doubles you know you cant take the increase for long and then after a while you break. The same thing happens when you apply double the clamping pressure to a used slave. When installing a clutch always start with a new fresh slave. The change in clamp pressure kills used slaves.
While I agree with you on other clamp pressure say act extreme pressure plate where you have to have tree trunk legs to press in the clutch. The rxt clutch pedal actually feels lighter then the stock. So I don't think that's the cause, pretty sure its just another shity oem ford part, like my chain tensioners that also went south after 8k miles.
Last edited:
I'd just install a different slave and make sure you vacuum bleed the reservoir to get all the air bubbles out. A lot of guys have air bubbles trapped in their lines from improper bleeding and it causes pedal issues/disengagement/engagement issues
I have a spec 3+ In my Tremec, when the tranny and clutch were installed we put a brand new stock slave which performs perfectly. The clutch is rated at 875 ft lbs of torque the motor makes 680 crank hp. The difference between stock clamping pressure and aftermarket clutches designed to hold more torque is night and day. The twin disc is the same, the softer pedal doesn't reduce its clamping capabilities. Ive read to many post here when guys buy a new clutch and re-use the same slave only to have it fail down the road.
How the hell do I vacuum bleed the reservoir? Is there any kits out there that do that, all the crap I find is for the brakes. I mean it's possible mine has air stuck the way it acts. Ford needs to be punched in the face for this self bleeding piece of junk.
Mightyvac brake bleeding kit (search on the web).
There are a few different kits, some include a compliment of connectors and adaptors that have hose attachments you can connect to the tool. Or go to Home Depot and buy a rubber plug like the ones used for a sink drain, drill a hole in it and insert a hose attachment. Connect to your Mightvac, remove the brake reservoir cap, install the plug and start pumping to draw vacuum on the reservoir.
There are a few different kits, some include a compliment of connectors and adaptors that have hose attachments you can connect to the tool. Or go to Home Depot and buy a rubber plug like the ones used for a sink drain, drill a hole in it and insert a hose attachment. Connect to your Mightvac, remove the brake reservoir cap, install the plug and start pumping to draw vacuum on the reservoir.
Users who are viewing this thread
