Should I run a Transbrake???

[BillyGman]

Does anyone here have any experience using a transbrake?? Do they put a lot more strain on the driveshaft, U-joints, and rear end during the launch? If anyone here has used one, did you brake a lot more drivetrain parts than you ever did before you started using one? And if the answer to these questions is "yes", then don't you think that reving the engine to 3,000 RPM's and more and dumping the clutch all at once with a stick car puts just as much strain on the drivetrain as using as transbrake does with automatics?

 

[366stroker]

transbrake question

using a trans brake is a good way to be very consistant but depending on how many times you go to the track you may have to freshen up your trans once a year. a friend of mind uses a transbrake and gets about 200-250 passes on it before he has freshen up. but thats a c-4 trans and i know that they are not the same as your mercury. but maybe you can have a idea on a time spand and thats with about 500hp. i have a stick shift and lunch at 7000rpm with 1.45 60ft on motor and if you driven a stick you know what i mean. the shock to the drive train are harsh so proper suspension is suggested for longevity. so with correct parts and proper tuning you get to use a trans brake and have fun but always check your car out after every run the 10 extra minutes is worth the money and time invested just think what it cost when you break.
"366stroker"
84 mustang 366windsor 5-speed 10.92 @ 124.75 all motor
04 mustang mach1 5-speed 12.98 @ 106.43 sticky tire only stock ehaust

 

[BillyGman]

Thankyou for your reply. BTW, this question isn't concerning my Marauder. I'm about to begin on a muscle car project with a crate engine. It will be some big displacment, and all motor. No power adders.

 

[4sdvenom]

A tranny brake will be less harmfull to the drivetrain than dumping the clutch in a stick car will ever be!
The tranny brake allows the power to load up against the drivetrain, thus eliminating the freewheel, and shock that a stick car will have frokm dumping the clutch.

I have a tranny brake in my '03 Cobra that I converted to auto and love it......the only thing to look out for is make sure you have a very good tranny fluid cooling system as tranny temps can shoot up quite a lot for every second your on the trannybrake........I run 2 of the big B&M SuperCoolers in series with each other, and have done back to back passes with the tranny brake just trying to test the cooling. My temps never got above 190 with 4 back to back passes........by back to back I mean finish the run drive right back up and stage and run again withen 5 minutes (track rental..lol).

Ken :beer:

 

[BillyGman]

A tranny brake will be less harmfull to the drivetrain than dumping the clutch in a stick car will ever be!
The tranny brake allows the power to load up against the drivetrain, thus eliminating the freewheel, and shock that a stick car will have frokm dumping the clutch.

:

I'm glad that you've replied, because it's guys like you who use transbrakes that I want to talk to about this. I must question you on your theory about this though. I don't think that the drivetrain can be loaded up with the transbrake engaged, since the torque of the engine is being held back by the transmission itself. Therefore, the only thing that's loaded up is the transmission. The U-joints, driveshaft, ring & pinion gears, and axles are NOT loaded up. Right or wrong???

 

[4sdvenom]

I'm glad that you've replied, because it's guys like you who use transbrakes that I want to talk to about this. I must question you on your theory about this though. I don't think that the drivetrain can be loaded up with the transbrake engaged, since the torque of the engine is being held back by the transmission itself. Therefore, the only thing that's loaded up is the transmission. The U-joints, driveshaft, ring & pinion gears, and axles are NOT loaded up. Right or wrong???

Technically if you do it right...wrong...you can load the driveshaft, u-joints, ring & pinion, and axles before engaging the transbrake. I should have worded it better......It will load the transmission, and create a load against the converter. Not the driveshaft, or u-joints....if you don't load the drivetrain first.

What I do is do my burnout.....roll into the pre-stage and light the pre-stage bulb....then with my left foot on the brakes (not T/B) and right foot on the gas pedal I bring the rpms up to withen 500 rpms of what I want to launch at....still holding the brakes (not T/B) I creep into the lights until I light the stage bulb....as soon as it lights the stage bulb I engage the tranny brake..let off the brake pedal...and raise the rpms to my launch rpm....your entire drivetrain will be loaded doing it this way because you loaded it against the cars brakes...and you engaged the transbrake which will keep it loaded.

The ideal way (which is what I will be doing next) is wiring my momentary switch for the transbrake thru 2 relays...one for the transbrake....one for linelock.....which will aid in keeping everything planted at the line!

Ken :beer:

 

[BillyGman]

I read in a transmission website tech article that one of the advantages to using a transbrake, is because brake torqing at the line will load-up your suspension, and that puts your suspension in the mode that you want it to be in right when your car is launching, and not before. So by using a transbrake, you can load up the torque converter w/out loading up your suspension, and that way, your suspension doesn't get loaded up until the car begins to launch off the line immediately after the transbrake is released.

That made a lot of sense to me when I read that. But I guess this is something that I'll just have to learn through experience and experimantation. I just hope that I don't destroy expensive hi-perf drivetrain parts in the process by using a transbrake.

 

[4sdvenom]

Using the method I described above got me a 1.49 60' time on get this:
Hoosier 17" drag radials (335/35/17)
Ported Eaton (6lb lower/2.93 upper)
Solid axle w/3.90 gears
Stock Mach 1 springs
Stock Mach 1 sway bar (no anti roll bar)
Strange adjustables set at 2 on drivers side and 3 on passenger side
Solid UCAs
Steeda billet LCAs
And heavy ass AFS '03 Cobra replica wheels all the way around

There is more left in my launch because with the above set-up I only got to try launching at 2500, second run I tried 3500 which was to much, and I broke the blower at the end of the run...so I never got to try another launch rpm....I think I could launch at 2800-3000, and stick it to a mid 1.40 60'....with an anti roll bar (going in this winter) I'll be looking for low 1.40 - high 1.30 60' on 17" drag radials!

So from experience it works for me!

FWIW: I have probably 100 passes on the T/B and no problems from using it!

Ken :beer:

 

[BillyGman]

FWIW: I have probably 100 passes on the T/B and no problems from using it!

Ken :beer:

Ken, what stall speed is your torque converter set at?

 

[4sdvenom]

4000 stall
(Prescision Industries triple disc)

Ken

 

[BillyGman]

4000 stall
(Prescision Industries triple disc)

Ken

How come you have it set so high, if you're only launching at 2500???? If you cannot hook up using all the stall speed, then maybe it's time to try slicks, no?

 

[4sdvenom]

How come you have it set so high, if you're only launching at 2500???? If you cannot hook up using all the stall speed, then maybe it's time to try slicks, no?

2500 is for the 17" drag radials that I drive everyday on! In time slicks will happen.....right now I'm having fun with 17" drag radials...when I want to start pushing more limits with it, and start trailering it with slicks then I will!
The 4000 doesn't hurt me on the top end either as I have a full lock-up converter (electronic lock-up).

I set the stall for what my ultimate plans and goals will be.

I don't think anyone can honestly tell me though it is to high with 1.49 60'. Considering it is basically a stock solid axle rear suspension....100% stock front suspension with no sway bar, and a full weight Cobra (minus solid axle swap and spare tire) with 17" drag radials!

When I find the wheels I want I will have 28x10.5x15 slicks on the rear with a set of skinnies up front......Then I will launch fully on the converter at 4000+ ;-)
Until then I'll enjoy my car as I drive it everyday. And the 4000 stall is in no way to much for the street, but remember I have a lock-up converter too.

Ken :beer:

 

[BillyGman]

Well I'm not sure what stall speed has to do with the fact that your converter is the lock-up type, so you lost me there. As far as your 60 foot time, well that's excellent. No argument there. I just meant that your 60 foot times would probably be just as good with a 2500 stall speed if that's all you're using presently. So with drag radials, you're not using all of your stall speed, so I'm sure that you can even obtain better times with slicks since you would be more likely to use all of that stall speed during your launches. But you obviously already know that anyway. Thanks for your replies.

 

[4sdvenom]

Well I'm not sure what stall speed has to do with the fact that your converter is the lock-up type, so you lost me there. QUOTE]

Because some people automaticaly think if you have a high stall converter....it will slip way to much on the top end therefore hurting times....I simply wanted to let you know ahead of time it is a lock-up converter, and it gets locked right about the 1000' mark on the track (1:1 no slip)

I can't wait to launch this thing at 4000 with full boost, and traction!..... :rockon:

Ken :beer:

 

[BillyGman]

I can't wait to launch this thing at 4000 with full boost, and traction!..... :rockon:

Ken :beer:

I wish you the best Ken, and I look forward to hearing how you do.

 

[4sdvenom]

I wish you the best Ken, and I look forward to hearing how you do.

And the same to you......! :beer: