Should I Go With an Aluminator? How Much HP? Durabilty?

[Tony_GT_14]

My Procharger should be here next Wednesday. I was going to just use the stock engine and possibly upgrade later. The car would be tuned for about 560rhp and of course be daily driven.

NOW I'm considering ordering the low-compression Aluminator and selling the stocker.

How much more durability would I be gaining? What is the safe RWHP numbers that this engine can handle?

Any information you guys can give will be greatly appreciated!:beer:

 

[Mad_Marc]

I was in the same boat a few months ago, I put out 784 on my stock motor with a p1sc-1 and ran with no issues for about 5,xxx miles and finally decided to upgrade it before it blew out. People will say no more than 600 on a stock block but it will varry on many things. What are your ultimate hp goals? I was going to go with an aluminator too but i chose to go with MMR and just do the pro mod block. I think if your gonna spend the money might as well get something build to fit your needs and wants.

 

[OG_]

I've wondered what would be less costly...upgrading the factory internals or just swapping to an aluminator...

I've noticed quite a few choose the latter..

 

[hitmix300]

your always going to want more power. i would go for a good MMR block. the aluminator is nice but there are even better features from MMR's bottom end, imo. run the stock block for awhile and do what Mad_Marc did.

 

[burke985]

if you want more than 650rwhp then build the motor or go with an aluminator, under that keep the stock motor.

 

[manolith]

I've wondered what would be less costly...upgrading the factory internals or just swapping to an aluminator...

I've noticed quite a few choose the latter..

The aluminator will be more costly if you can do the job your self. But the aluminator option has no down time.

 

[D.T.R]

If you are going to be content with 950whp-1000whp, the aluminator is the best choice all around.

 

[Biltforspeed351]

One the other members hit the nail on the head. All depends on your end goal. What power level are you going to settle with in the end. IF you have no clue go with the MMR setup. That gives you a ton of room to grow. IF you just want to use your power adder and really turn up the wick then go Aluminator. I have an aluminator in mine and love it. My end goal is 900ish but I dont daily drive it. Anything more than that and I need to start looking into another more extensively built motor. Just dont grenade a good motor and possibly hurt other parts as well just trying to get an end number like alot of other have. Just my $.02. After about 700hp it all just a blur anyways....

 

[Tony_GT_14]

Thanks for the input!

I can't see putting out more than 800rwhp on the street in my DD. I could always get another car, but, I'll always be wanting to drive the GT!:burnout:

That being said, I was thinking in terms of reliability and durability at the 600-700rwhp mark and be able to crank out 800 if I feel like.

I just don't like the idea of being right at the limit of what the stock block can handle. As was just stated, I'd hate to nuke this engine and lose the money I could have put towards a better block.

 

[nonliberal]

Thanks for the input!

I can't see putting out more than 800rwhp on the street in my DD. I could always get another car, but, I'll always be wanting to drive the GT!:burnout:

That being said, I was thinking in terms of reliability and durability at the 600-700rwhp mark and be able to crank out 800 if I feel like.

I just don't like the idea of being right at the limit of what the stock block can handle. As was just stated, I'd hate to nuke this engine and lose the money I could have put towards a better block.

I'm in the same position right now. The car runs perfectly, but I know I'm at it's limits with 700hp and don't want to nuke it and possibly screw up the heads.. Trying to decide which way I want to go for my winter project since the car is down until spring anyway.

 

[mhyjek]

Aluminator

Thanks for the input!

I can't see putting out more than 800rwhp on the street in my DD. I could always get another car, but, I'll always be wanting to drive the GT!:burnout:

That being said, I was thinking in terms of reliability and durability at the 600-700rwhp mark and be able to crank out 800 if I feel like.

I just don't like the idea of being right at the limit of what the stock block can handle. As was just stated, I'd hate to nuke this engine and lose the money I could have put towards a better block.

Yeah the Aluminator is better as far as internals but the block is the same as the one you have... I would see what you can get for your long block first; seems like the going price has gone down. I think $3500 to 4500 is the range whereas during summer time was more like $5000+. I'm in the same boat and have been weighting the alternatives and one of the wrinkles is the block; talked to a couple engine builders and from the information I gathered is you need to sleeve it or do some kind of bracing to it ie like L&M and tornado reinforcement. I thought getting 9.5 aluminator and calling it a day but would hate to spend the money and time to have the thing crack the block because I pushed it at the track etc and have to do it all over. I see MMR is having a black friday sale depending on the $ probably do the pro sleeve if not much cheaper then have my block done by L&M. Mine isn't a daily driver and thought 600 to the wheels would be good but no I want more:burnout::burnout: LOL. With 600 to the wheels you still should do a fuel system with all the BAP failures would hate to see you do an aluminator and break not because of power but fuel failure... It's deep hole once you start FI...

 

[StevenStarke]

I love the nonchalant convo's on SVT about dropping almost 9k on an engine plus labor to put it in. I get it that you can sell the stock motor for $3500 but still. It's still 7k out of pocket just for an engine. I know it's reliable and built tough, but it still blows my mind.

 

[burke985]

If you get a good tune and install and run 6-650 on the stock block you will not nuke it unless you come across the same variables you could come across in a built motor(being bad gas/install/tune). Just because the motor is built dont make it bullet proof it has to be tuned correctly and use good fuel also when running high horsepower. If your goal is 6-650stay with the stock motor and dont treat it like a rag doll because if you constantly beat the shit out of any motor it will fail at some point. Since your car is a daily driver your never going to see the benefit of running 800 horses unless you turn it into a track car ,hell the 420 horses the car comes with really is overkill for a DD in all reality. If you plan on turning it into a weekend cruiser or a track car get an aluminator so it will be able to handle the abuse for a longer amount of time. If your just gonna DD it then just throw the procharger on it and get a good dyno tune and you will be good to go.

 

[99riocobra]

I love the nonchalant convo's on SVT about dropping almost 9k on an engine plus labor to put it in. I get it that you can sell the stock motor for $3500 but still. It's still 7k out of pocket just for an engine. I know it's reliable and built tough, but it still blows my mind.

A lot of guys on here will do the labor themselves of pulling and replacing an engine. Then you can sell your stocker, assuming it's in good condition. That said it's still not a cheap ordeal, but luckily everyone on SVTP is a baller ;-)

 

[Force Induced]

Aluminators are great engines but I've still have been told once you get to that 4 digit number they also will be living on the edge but for south of 900rwhp should be good. After all there aren't much anything special just forged rotating assembly and stock 5.0 block.

 

[turbosha]

so for a drop in and go up to 900 wheel hp. aluminator is good.
nice.

 

[RC-5.0]

so for a drop in and go up to 900 wheel hp. aluminator is good.
nice.

That's kinda what Im wondering. This thread has some good info in it..

Sub'n

RC

 

[Tony_GT_14]

Man, I'm going to have a hard time making this decision. Please keep the input coming.

On one hand, I could say sure, I won't be going over 650hp being that it's my DD. I run 90% highway and always put BP or Shell 93 in it. I always make sure the gas station I go to is a busy one. So in that case, with a good tune and not flogging the piss out of it, she should hold just fine...........

BUT, I'm a bit of a nut-job, so I might very well want to crank the boost, get a Termi for a DD, and make this a silly-ass toy! IDK, I could justify either path.

Now, what to do about the trans......hmmmmmm..........lol:-D

 

[Tony_GT_14]

I love the nonchalant convo's on SVT about dropping almost 9k on an engine plus labor to put it in. I get it that you can sell the stock motor for $3500 but still. It's still 7k out of pocket just for an engine. I know it's reliable and built tough, but it still blows my mind.

It was this or buy a Shelby. I'd much rather have a car built just the way I want it. :-D

 

[StevenStarke]

Idk man. I think I would have went with a 2013/2014 Shelby. Lol