Short questions!!!!!!!!

Booyah

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:mad: Okay I sent the Cobra to the shop last Thursday to get this fixed. And of course it was supposed to have been fixed. I went to crank my car and the Anti Theft system wouldn't let me. So I was like WTF??? I call my local dealership, they say it's probably my key and to let it sit for about half an hour to let the system reset. I did and it cranked, then I go back out to go to lunch at 1130(the first incident was at 0700). It cranked and I was sitting there putting the windows down and getting ready to back out. Then the damn Anti Theft system came back on and killed the engine. So I call a damn tow truck and get it towed to the dealership. They do some tests and can't find anything, so they just start inspecting some of the wiring. They said that the ground to the computer wasn't tight. And that the arcing from the loose ground made the Anti Theft think that it was being hot wired. Okay, $243 for 3 1/2 hours of labor and I take her home. The Cobra was fine for a day and a half. Then Saturday night coming back from a party the damn thing shut's off and the Anti Theft system comes on, AGAIN!!!! So I pop out the right kick panel to look at this damn ground wire. Okay it's as tight as it can get and there isn't any arch marks. Then as I'm sitting there trying to crank it again the Anti Theft releases and it cranks and I drove her home. I Try to crank her today, nope she started doing the clicking and the Anti Theft is still not letting it crank at all now.

Now with all of that said, what the hell do you guys think it is????????????????????? Other than tearing the damn dash and the engine compartment apart, I have checked all grounds and wiring. There is a clicking coming from under the hood and sometimes from the dash. I have a Haynes manuel but the wiring diagrams aren't the best. Any help would be appreciated.
 

Blue03Cobra

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I'd start with the charging system. I've had that happen with an aftermarket alarm (not the Cobra, though) when the battery had a bad cell. If the battery and charging system are good...It's outta MY league :(.

Good Luck.
 

Booyah

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She turns over, just won't fire due to the Anti Theft system cutting the ignition. If that's what you were getting at. But thanks. :D
 

Blue03Cobra

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Yeah, that's pretty much what I was getting at. My problem manifested like you were taking the negative cable off and putting it back on, while cranking. The car would crank, go dead, then the alarm would go off...weird. If the bad cell was "active", the car would crank. Once under load the cell would go off, along with the whole battery, and once the load was off, there was enough juice to fire the alarm. Good Luck.
 

SweetSVT99

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I agree. When the baterry starts going south it may still start the car ok, but cause other (otherwise unexplainable) electrical problems. I would suggest you change the battery too.
 

Booyah

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UPDATE!!!!!

Well I finally took the CPU out to troubleshoot in on my own. Narrowed it down to be the actual CPU itself. I started playing with the CPU and harness while the ignition was on. It kept shorting and would kick on the Anti theft when I vigorously wiggled the CPU. So I checked the harness and nothing was wrong there. Okay, so I figured maybe the bolt that holds the harness end might be grounding it some how. No go. Okay, so I do the wiggle test and it cuts off again. HMMM. where is my hand when I do this? Right over the recalibration chip for the SC. So I starting wiggling the chip and it keeps setting the Anti theft off. Ah ha found it, wrong, I take off the chip and it works. But then I decide to tape the chip down more securely as to eliminate the problem. And notice that there really isn't any particular direction that makes the connection better or worse. HMMMMM. So I pull the chip out and start putting pressure on the connectors, that connect the chip to the board, on the board. Each time I push down it would short.

So now my question to you guys is, does anyone know of a shop that does CPU trouble shooting/repair??? Maybe JDM????
 

GR8WHITE

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Dude I'd try buying a computer outta a wrecked 98 first. I think Dalls Mustang or Texas Mustang probably have what you need. It would be easier this way right? Not sure about cheaper, but it can't hurt to check?
 

Booyah

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Originally posted by GR8WHITE
Dude I'd try buying a computer outta a wrecked 98 first. I think Dalls Mustang or Texas Mustang probably have what you need. It would be easier this way right? Not sure about cheaper, but it can't hurt to check?

Hadn't even thought about that. It's going to be hard to match up the calibration codes and programming codes but worth a try. Thanks. :D
 

stronghimiler

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Troubleshooting

Start with basic troubleshooting using the process of elimination. Take the Anti-theft out of the equation by completely disconnecting it from the car entirely (Unless it's in the computer, I don't know much about the Anti-theft in new cars) If you could do that and it still dies, then it's something else, most likely charging or ignition. Good Luck!!!
 

GR8WHITE

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If you get a 98 computer the calibration codes should be the same. They were updated in 98 since the fuel system went returnless. Just don't get a California car's computer and it should be ALL GOOD ;)
 

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