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2011-2014 Mustangs
2011-2014 Mustang Talk
Shaving weight off 2014 Mustang GT
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<blockquote data-quote="OX1" data-source="post: 16644843" data-attributes="member: 175132"><p>Yes, the only weight savings I paid for was lighter rad support (especially since sway bar was being upgraded and radiator came out when blower was going in), mostly to make up for heavier front sway bar and lightweight battery (and home made alum battery mount), but not until my stock battery was going anyway.</p><p></p><p>I did rear seat/belt delete and home made cardboard/black material setup in it's place. I removed spare/jack, but I leave</p><p>trunk carpet in place (except track). That in combo with even my cardboard rear seat cover, cuts way down on any rear end whine. </p><p>I also have Roush upper/lowers, which don't use any kind of solid bushing (so less whine transmission). No way I would ditch pass seat, unless it was track only temp mod. Rear seat is useless for adults, but unless you ALWAYS want to drive around by yourself. </p><p></p><p>So with only Roush phs 3, VMP tune, and X-pipe, I trap 130 in good air (and that was even after adding front brembos, negating some of my free weight savings). Can still get it for 7 grand <a href="https://www.auto-repair-manuals.com/product32296.html#32296" target="_blank">ROUSH 5.0L Aluminator Engine - Phase 3 - 675 HP Supercharger Kit</a>. I paid a little under 6, 3 years ago with a Summit price match off some obscure site that had a too good to be true deal. </p><p></p><p>I've often wondered how much $$$$$$ it really takes to get a NA coyote into the 10's (again, without absolutely gutting, including stuff like AC). It's a cool feat and all, but seems like a lot of work and track time required (unless you are a track junky, and I'm not). And even then, I doubt you get the rush from a roll I get from say 40-90/100.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="OX1, post: 16644843, member: 175132"] Yes, the only weight savings I paid for was lighter rad support (especially since sway bar was being upgraded and radiator came out when blower was going in), mostly to make up for heavier front sway bar and lightweight battery (and home made alum battery mount), but not until my stock battery was going anyway. I did rear seat/belt delete and home made cardboard/black material setup in it's place. I removed spare/jack, but I leave trunk carpet in place (except track). That in combo with even my cardboard rear seat cover, cuts way down on any rear end whine. I also have Roush upper/lowers, which don't use any kind of solid bushing (so less whine transmission). No way I would ditch pass seat, unless it was track only temp mod. Rear seat is useless for adults, but unless you ALWAYS want to drive around by yourself. So with only Roush phs 3, VMP tune, and X-pipe, I trap 130 in good air (and that was even after adding front brembos, negating some of my free weight savings). Can still get it for 7 grand [URL="https://www.auto-repair-manuals.com/product32296.html#32296"]ROUSH 5.0L Aluminator Engine - Phase 3 - 675 HP Supercharger Kit[/URL]. I paid a little under 6, 3 years ago with a Summit price match off some obscure site that had a too good to be true deal. I've often wondered how much $$$$$$ it really takes to get a NA coyote into the 10's (again, without absolutely gutting, including stuff like AC). It's a cool feat and all, but seems like a lot of work and track time required (unless you are a track junky, and I'm not). And even then, I doubt you get the rush from a roll I get from say 40-90/100. [/QUOTE]
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Shaving weight off 2014 Mustang GT
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