Shaving weight off 2014 Mustang GT

[Austin Brian]

So stock curb is 3618.
Currently I have the stock mufflers removed and cats. So around 20lbs there
I have the single piece DS upgrade so another 20lb there, so I am assuming 3578 roughly is my weight now.
I’m debating about removing my front and rear crash bars, spare tire/jack, passenger seat, rear seat, carpet in the back along with plastic liners in the trunk. So that should net me around 244lbs is removed?

what you guys think yay or nae?

 

[Fat Boss]

The back seat weighs next to nothing compared to the back seat belts.

 

[13COBRA]

Question..before you start jerking out all of that stuff, what is your end goal for this car?

 

[Riddick]

The more interior pieces you remove the more your car will turn into a rattle can. You will begin to hear your rear end humming along with every pebble being kick up by your rear wheels all while your exhaust drone lulls you off to sleep. Unless you are going max effort race application I would leave as much of the interior in tact as possible.

There are options still available for weight reduction involving interior pieces. You can swap in a set of lightweight seats, I would recommend reclining ones for street cars such as the Corbeau RRS. These will save around 50 pounds total. Also, if you want to remove the rear seat make sure to install a rear seat delete, it keeps your car from looking like it was robbed and quiets down the ride as well. I believe the rear seats weigh close to 30 pounds when you include the seat backs and belts.

Crash bars are a risk vs reward weight savings mod, for most people its not worth it. If you get into an accident with them removed your car is totaled and you put yourself at risk for injury. I removed the front because I figure if I need that one its something I did or caused and it will fall solely on me. With all the excellent drivers in the world I chose to leave my rear one in tact. Last thing I want is someone texting to plow into me at a stop light. Again risk vs. reward.....

If you are all about the weight savings life consider your rear axle weights, K member, tubular control arms, windshield washer reservoir, keep all junk out of car, run car with 1/4 to 1/2 tank of fuel. There are several things you can do it all comes down to how far you want to take the car. When I was young and dumb I decided to completely gut my turbo civic to include, all interior, a/c, power steering, cruise control and I quickly regretted it. Think long and hard before gutting a car.

 

[Austin Brian]

The more interior pieces you remove the more your car will turn into a rattle can. You will begin to hear your rear end humming along with every pebble being kick up by your rear wheels all while your exhaust drone lulls you off to sleep. Unless you are going max effort race application I would leave as much of the interior in tact as possible.

There are options still available for weight reduction involving interior pieces. You can swap in a set of lightweight seats, I would recommend reclining ones for street cars such as the Corbeau RRS. These will save around 50 pounds total. Also, if you want to remove the rear seat make sure to install a rear seat delete, it keeps your car from looking like it was robbed and quiets down the ride as well. I believe the rear seats weigh close to 30 pounds when you include the seat backs and belts.

Crash bars are a risk vs reward weight savings mod, for most people its not worth it. If you get into an accident with them removed your car is totaled and you put yourself at risk for injury. I removed the front because I figure if I need that one its something I did or caused and it will fall solely on me. With all the excellent drivers in the world I chose to leave my rear one in tact. Last thing I want is someone texting to plow into me at a stop light. Again risk vs. reward.....

If you are all about the weight savings life consider your rear axle weights, K member, tubular control arms, windshield washer reservoir, keep all junk out of car, run car with 1/4 to 1/2 tank of fuel. There are several things you can do it all comes down to how far you want to take the car. When I was young and dumb I decided to completely gut my turbo civic to include, all interior, a/c, power steering, cruise control and I quickly regretted it. Think long and hard before gutting a car.

thanks for the insight, I’m going to think about this longer now. The cars nice it’s a Cali special I hate to gut it honestly but the weight savings sounds so nice. If wish I could get the car to 3350, that be so awesome but I mean I have fun with the car as it is.

thank you for the advice.

 

[SID297]

Manual seat tracks help a lot.

 

[Austin Brian]

Question..before you start jerking out all of that stuff, what is your end goal for this car?

well I would like to supercharger, but I need to buy a house. I’ve done everything I have liked and stuff that will realistically help performance. I’m full exhaust with e85 w/ LU47’s I kept the stock air box and intake because from my research those are made very well. I’m going to start upgrading suspension and get on a drag radial. I am estimating my car at 495 crank/420wheel. I’m tuned with Lund and the car hits.

debating about opening the engine and throwing stage 2 cams in but I realize the gains will be small around 20hp but paired with my e85 I think it’ll be good. I also have the single piece DS

again I’d like to supercharger but can’t spend 7-8k rn I can potentially spend 3k however. Plus I like the idea of have a good happy strong 5.0 with cams knowing it will be a little more sound than forced induction not to say that these engines can’t handle 600wheel safe but I like natural aspiration stuff ya know, I’d rather save for a newer mustang and boost that, this s197 I have has a special part to me and I’d had to wreck it or blow the original engine.

 

[13COBRA]

well I would like to supercharger, but I need to buy a house. I’ve done everything I have liked and stuff that will realistically help performance. I’m full exhaust with e85 w/ LU47’s I kept the stock air box and intake because from my research those are made very well. I’m going to start upgrading suspension and get on a drag radial. I am estimating my car at 495 crank/420wheel. I’m tuned with Lund and the car hits.

debating about opening the engine and throwing stage 2 cams in but I realize the gains will be small around 20hp but paired with my e85 I think it’ll be good. I also have the single piece DS

again I’d like to supercharger but can’t spend 7-8k rn I can potentially spend 3k however. Plus I like the idea of have a good happy strong 5.0 with cams knowing it will be a little more sound than forced induction not to say that these engines can’t handle 600wheel safe but I like natural aspiration stuff ya know, I’d rather save for a newer mustang and boost that, this s197 I have has a special part to me and I’d had to wreck it or blow the original engine.

Just a street car then I take it?

 

[Austin Brian]

Just a street car then I take it?

yes sir, occasionally strip

 

[Riddick]

From the sounds of it you like to go fast, welcome to the club! Since its primarily a street car I would highly advise against gutting the car. I would even advise you not to invest in weight reduction parts that you have to pay for (seats, k-members, control arms, etc...) You will spend a couple thousand dollars on these and gain .2 in the 1/4..... not worth it.

You also mentioned cams, will you be performing the work yourself? If not the 2k estimated cost just increased quite a bit from labor. If this is the path you decide to take you really need to put a CJ intake on the car in conjunction with the cams.

You also mentioned a supercharger and are estimating 7-8k to purchase. It sounds like you are wanting to buy new but you can find a used VMP/Roush or Paxton kits for 4k-5k easily. There are tons of tutorials on how to install these and you can do it yourself in a weekend.

Consider all your options before diving in. Do you really want to gut a car you drive on the street, HELL NO! All motor sounds like its fun but it will leave you wanting more and you will spend damn near the same amount you could of bought a used supercharger kit for..... think about In my opinion boost is the only option, if speed is what you are after then eventually you will end up boosted.

 

[SID297]

On a street car, just buy a blower and enjoy it.

 

[sonicx]

Ain’t gonna matter if you can’t plant the power…..

get the suspension stuff

 

[oldstv]

I don't know you or your physical condition so this is a just in case statement, and I hope it doesn't offend you or anyone else.

I have given this advice to many a boat racer that was trying to reduce weight in a boat, some spending 40 to 50k on a new carbon hull to loose 50 or 60lbs..... "get on a tread mill and push back from the table". If this is applies to you then consider it an option, and it will be your best "for your health" and your cheapest option.

 

[Austin Brian]

From the sounds of it you like to go fast, welcome to the club! Since its primarily a street car I would highly advise against gutting the car. I would even advise you not to invest in weight reduction parts that you have to pay for (seats, k-members, control arms, etc...) You will spend a couple thousand dollars on these and gain .2 in the 1/4..... not worth it.

You also mentioned cams, will you be performing the work yourself? If not the 2k estimated cost just increased quite a bit from labor. If this is the path you decide to take you really need to put a CJ intake on the car in conjunction with the cams.

You also mentioned a supercharger and are estimating 7-8k to purchase. It sounds like you are wanting to buy new but you can find a used VMP/Roush or Paxton kits for 4k-5k easily. There are tons of tutorials on how to install these and you can do it yourself in a weekend.

Consider all your options before diving in. Do you really want to gut a car you drive on the street, HELL NO! All motor sounds like its fun but it will leave you wanting more and you will spend damn near the same amount you could of bought a used supercharger kit for..... think about In my opinion boost is the only option, if speed is what you are after then eventually you will end up boosted.

I agree with all of that, cams I would install myself. I’ve been content with my current build and set on saving up for a blower but I started thinking of little things to do and all that starts to stack on, I’m just going to keep saving. Maybe upgrade a few suspension parts. I most likely will not gut the car or remove anything for weight reduction.

 

[L8APEX]

It's a coyote, Just add boost, and suspension/tires that can try to put that power down.
Eat a big meal, have people in the car? Just a few presses on the boost controller and that added weight is a non issue. Hell you might actually get some traction.
Removing a few lbs here and there on things that are not actual upgrades are silly for a street car, aside removing some weight from the front to try and get a better distribution, but even then you'll be limited as there is only so much you can remove from the engine bay. Best place to use weight reduction on a high revving motor is rotating mass.

 

[13COBRA]

Doing a massive weight reduction, creature comfort removal, is ignorant for a street car.

 

[FJohnny]

A '14 GT shouldn't be running around without a blower. That problem should have been fixed years ago.

 

[Austin Brian]

A '14 GT shouldn't be running around without a blower. That problem should have been fixed years ago.

Hahahahah I laughed, well I bought the car almost 2 years ago now. But I need to save for a house :/

 

[slow306stang]

2012 GT at 3370lbs with a Procharger and the AIS 3 gallon meth kit.

Corbeau seats
Laguna Seca rear seat delete
Spare removed
Tubular k-member, a-arms, coil overs
Weld RT-S wheels
Aerospace Pro Street front brakes
Aluminum driveshaft
Manual rack
No A/c
BPS rad support
Tubular front bumper
Dumped exhaust

 

[Stangra]

Crash bars are a risk vs reward weight savings mod, for most people its not worth it. If you get into an accident with them removed your car is totaled and you put yourself at risk for injury. I removed the front because I figure if I need that one its something I did or caused and it will fall solely on me. With all the excellent drivers in the world I chose to leave my rear one in tact. Last thing I want is someone texting to plow into me at a stop light. Again risk vs. reward.....

Interesting thought process here:
There's untrustworthy drivers out there.
Maybe some of 'em are texting while driving too.
But...
They're only gonna ever rear end you, frontal impacts? you got this covered