Shaker subs

[mackdog2008]

Does anyone know if the shaker pro subs will plug and play in a non shaker pro car?

My car is a 2013 GT premium with the base shaker system not the pro, there is a guy selling the subs and amps but I want to make sure I can just install them and go?

 

[Duhhstan]

Are you talking about the bottom speakers on the doors? Because I have a base Mustang and am wanting to also see if that is possible.

 

[mackdog2008]

Are you talking about the bottom speakers on the doors? Because I have a base Mustang and am wanting to also see if that is possible.

Nope, I'm talking about the trunk subs.

 

[03godzilla]

Unfortunately they are not.

 

[mackdog2008]

Unfortunately they are not.

Yeah I didn't think so, I looked and could not find any wiring in the trunk.

 

[speed_monkey]

You're better off going aftermarket anyways if you want a sub. How much was he asking? You can get it done fairly cheap as long as you aren't looking to push a ton of power.

 

[stang99x]

Kicker makes a kit that is plug and play in the factory system. It has the proper wiring to add the sub. It is not cheap though.

 

[mackdog2008]

You're better off going aftermarket anyways if you want a sub. How much was he asking? You can get it done fairly cheap as long as you aren't looking to push a ton of power.

He was asking 300.00
I told him I was going to pass, I can do better with about the same amount of money.

 

[speed_monkey]

Yeah, I don't know how deep you want to go with this but a simple setup shouldn't cost too much.

Get a line out converter that can help with the bass roll off, like a lc2i
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC2I/AudioControl-LC2i.html?showAll=N&search=lc2i&skipvs=T

Then either get a powered sub or get a decent quality budget sub like this one
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_13610W0V34/JL-Audio-10W0v3-4.html

Here's a trunk box that fits pretty well and doesn't cost an arm and a leg
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IFEBNNG/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1434824527&sr=1&keywords=mustang+sub+box

Then you can either find a used amp local or just get a new one. Just make sure it has enough power to push the sub.

Or you can take it a little further and get the lc7i, which will allow you to add an amp for your speakers later as well if they can't keep up with the sub.

 

[skipnay]

I have a JL Audio 12W6 and and Rockford Fosgate Punch 500.1 that I would like to add to the trunk in our 2011. I want to keep the factory speakers in the rear and the front for now. Even the front subs. I haven't decided which audio Control I want to go with. I don't want to have to replace it later on needing something else.

 

[speed_monkey]

That's a lot of sub with stock speakers.
I considered keeping the stock subs and even picked up the kicker/shelby replacements to swap in but I gave up on that. Do yourself a favor and go to a shop where you can listen to a quality set of component speakers, they have more mid bass than the stock subs lmao. I think keeping the stock subs is just going to muddy up the sound if anything. The 12w6 is a good sub, let it do the work for you and dump the stock crap.

This is what I ended up going with to add to my stock headunit.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC7IG/AudioControl-LC7i-Gray.html

 

[skipnay]

That's a lot of sub with stock speakers.
I considered keeping the stock subs and even picked up the kicker/shelby replacements to swap in but I gave up on that. Do yourself a favor and go to a shop where you can listen to a quality set of component speakers, they have more mid bass than the stock subs lmao. I think keeping the stock subs is just going to muddy up the sound if anything. The 12w6 is a good sub, let it do the work for you and dump the stock crap.

This is what I ended up going with to add to my stock headunit.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC7IG/AudioControl-LC7i-Gray.html

What speakers did you use? Also did you keep the front subs just use something aftermarket? Can you tell us your set up?

 

[speed_monkey]

Front speakers
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R6500CX/Infinity-Reference-X-REF-6500cx.html?tp=106

Rear speakers
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R8602CX/Infinity-Reference-X-REF-8602cfx.html?tp=93

To keep my stock headunit
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC7IG/AudioControl-LC7i-Gray.html

Amp
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XR9005/Kenwood-Excelon-XR900-5.html?tp=35808

Then I got an open box JL 10w3v2 sub

Stock subs are disconnected. I don't think messing with them is worth the time, they just produce distortion and sound like crap. The kicker/shelby replacements aren't worth it either. It only uses one pair of wires per sub so you are getting half of the power out of the already crap amp. And they are some weird impedance like 1.2 ohm. I guess you could get some shallow mount subs and power them with an aftermarket amp if you really wanted to... but how much bass do you want in your doors? I can see door rattle being a big issue.

I actually have a set of the kicker 8" sub replacements sitting in my closet that I have to get rid of now -_- lol

 

[wheelspin]

I'm guessing the stock door speakers are dual voice coil. The single set of wires on the Kicker speakers most likely matches the impedance of both voice coils connected on stock speakers. This is just a guess though, I've never looked.

The power going to both would be the same in that case, it only makes a difference in impedance.