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2011-2014 Mustangs
Interior and Exterior
**Shaker Pro rear sub preamp wiring help**
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<blockquote data-quote="TheDivaDanielle" data-source="post: 14135887" data-attributes="member: 139821"><p>just keep in mind that the front speakers, rear speakers AND door midbass woofers run off of one amp, and the subwoofer in the trunk is on it's own.</p><p></p><p>I do agree that the trunk subwoofer could do to hit slightly higher frequencies stock (like push UP to 100hz), and the door woofers could really benefit from a 80hz max low end slope, but without bypassing the amps you won't be able to.</p><p></p><p>I will say from my recent experience that even on the stock amps, a new deck and speakers really wake up the system, but then you'll realize just how lazy the trunk sub is in filling in the whole mix. I have a convertible so it feels even worse. with the top up, the trunk sub is barely adequate and quickly runs out of headroom at louder volumes, and with the top down, feels like it's barely there, unless you are specifically listening to a score or a hip-hop track that emphasizes low bass.</p><p></p><p>My favorite "tuning" tracks have become the score from the Tron: Legacy Soundtrack, particularly the Overture and Derezzed. I'm aiming for a natural sound, thus stuff like how strings and horns sound to me really matter. But I like the bass to be full but not overwhelming.</p><p></p><p>My *temporary* way of going about this is limiting the "front" stage to 80hz, as it only affects the midbass woofer, and i let the stock eq between the mids/tweeter stay in place, as it's adequate for now, then limit the rear to 150hz (since it's only mid filler)</p><p></p><p>and since the trunk sub is so lazy, until i replace it and run my own sub/amp/wiring, on full thru/filter bypass, as anything I would be doing is just limiting it's slope.</p><p></p><p>I'm curious how you make out though with just pushing an aftermarket amp to the stock sub. I did consider that. (have a 500x1 mono from an old system I could use, would just have to turn it way down)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="TheDivaDanielle, post: 14135887, member: 139821"] just keep in mind that the front speakers, rear speakers AND door midbass woofers run off of one amp, and the subwoofer in the trunk is on it's own. I do agree that the trunk subwoofer could do to hit slightly higher frequencies stock (like push UP to 100hz), and the door woofers could really benefit from a 80hz max low end slope, but without bypassing the amps you won't be able to. I will say from my recent experience that even on the stock amps, a new deck and speakers really wake up the system, but then you'll realize just how lazy the trunk sub is in filling in the whole mix. I have a convertible so it feels even worse. with the top up, the trunk sub is barely adequate and quickly runs out of headroom at louder volumes, and with the top down, feels like it's barely there, unless you are specifically listening to a score or a hip-hop track that emphasizes low bass. My favorite "tuning" tracks have become the score from the Tron: Legacy Soundtrack, particularly the Overture and Derezzed. I'm aiming for a natural sound, thus stuff like how strings and horns sound to me really matter. But I like the bass to be full but not overwhelming. My *temporary* way of going about this is limiting the "front" stage to 80hz, as it only affects the midbass woofer, and i let the stock eq between the mids/tweeter stay in place, as it's adequate for now, then limit the rear to 150hz (since it's only mid filler) and since the trunk sub is so lazy, until i replace it and run my own sub/amp/wiring, on full thru/filter bypass, as anything I would be doing is just limiting it's slope. I'm curious how you make out though with just pushing an aftermarket amp to the stock sub. I did consider that. (have a 500x1 mono from an old system I could use, would just have to turn it way down) [/QUOTE]
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**Shaker Pro rear sub preamp wiring help**
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