**Shaker Pro rear sub preamp wiring help**

[NoSlo5oH]

Does anyone know which wires provide the preamp speaker signals for the Shaker Pro rear sub? There are three wires (besides the power and ground wires), in the amp connector (brown/blue, white/blue and gray with a burgundy or purple tracer). I want to feed the signal to my sound processor, so that I can gain full control of the factory sub.

Thanks

 

[TheDivaDanielle]

just curious what you're looking to gain/get from controlling the sub?

I just installed a Kenwood DNX-891HD to my shaker pro, and i obviously can't defeat the stock crossover w/out going around the amp, I could increase the gain to make the sub a little bit less lazy on delivery, but it's just too weak. You'd honestly be best served with a new sub/amp. At least you already have the wiring back there, but obviously will want to run a bigger main power and ground to it.(

(that's my plan, once the money tree is replenished, replaced the sub/amp)

 

[NoSlo5oH]

I figured since I have the sound processor which has a separate equalizer for the door/rear speakers and the sub? It's supposed to override the stock EQ and allow me to tune the whole system. I agree that installing a separate amp and sub would be easiest. I was just trying to draw the line at spending too much money on audio mods. I'm leaning towards buying a new amp and keeping the factory sub. A JL XD 200 mono amp should be plenty for the stock sub.

 

[TheDivaDanielle]

just keep in mind that the front speakers, rear speakers AND door midbass woofers run off of one amp, and the subwoofer in the trunk is on it's own.

I do agree that the trunk subwoofer could do to hit slightly higher frequencies stock (like push UP to 100hz), and the door woofers could really benefit from a 80hz max low end slope, but without bypassing the amps you won't be able to.

I will say from my recent experience that even on the stock amps, a new deck and speakers really wake up the system, but then you'll realize just how lazy the trunk sub is in filling in the whole mix. I have a convertible so it feels even worse. with the top up, the trunk sub is barely adequate and quickly runs out of headroom at louder volumes, and with the top down, feels like it's barely there, unless you are specifically listening to a score or a hip-hop track that emphasizes low bass.

My favorite "tuning" tracks have become the score from the Tron: Legacy Soundtrack, particularly the Overture and Derezzed. I'm aiming for a natural sound, thus stuff like how strings and horns sound to me really matter. But I like the bass to be full but not overwhelming.

My *temporary* way of going about this is limiting the "front" stage to 80hz, as it only affects the midbass woofer, and i let the stock eq between the mids/tweeter stay in place, as it's adequate for now, then limit the rear to 150hz (since it's only mid filler)

and since the trunk sub is so lazy, until i replace it and run my own sub/amp/wiring, on full thru/filter bypass, as anything I would be doing is just limiting it's slope.

I'm curious how you make out though with just pushing an aftermarket amp to the stock sub. I did consider that. (have a 500x1 mono from an old system I could use, would just have to turn it way down)

 

[TheVikingRL]

This is what I did on mine, although it's a 2012.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?837726-JL-Shaker-1000

 

[TheVikingRL]

just keep in mind that the front speakers, rear speakers AND door midbass woofers run off of one amp, and the subwoofer in the trunk is on it's own.

I do agree that the trunk subwoofer could do to hit slightly higher frequencies stock (like push UP to 100hz), and the door woofers could really benefit from a 80hz max low end slope, but without bypassing the amps you won't be able to.

I will say from my recent experience that even on the stock amps, a new deck and speakers really wake up the system, but then you'll realize just how lazy the trunk sub is in filling in the whole mix. I have a convertible so it feels even worse. with the top up, the trunk sub is barely adequate and quickly runs out of headroom at louder volumes, and with the top down, feels like it's barely there, unless you are specifically listening to a score or a hip-hop track that emphasizes low bass.

My favorite "tuning" tracks have become the score from the Tron: Legacy Soundtrack, particularly the Overture and Derezzed. I'm aiming for a natural sound, thus stuff like how strings and horns sound to me really matter. But I like the bass to be full but not overwhelming.

My *temporary* way of going about this is limiting the "front" stage to 80hz, as it only affects the midbass woofer, and i let the stock eq between the mids/tweeter stay in place, as it's adequate for now, then limit the rear to 150hz (since it's only mid filler)

and since the trunk sub is so lazy, until i replace it and run my own sub/amp/wiring, on full thru/filter bypass, as anything I would be doing is just limiting it's slope.

I'm curious how you make out though with just pushing an aftermarket amp to the stock sub. I did consider that. (have a 500x1 mono from an old system I could use, would just have to turn it way down)

On my car the 8" door speakers ran off a dedicate amp, and the 5x7's run off the HU. Maybe that changed in 2013. I agree the factory sub/amp is about useless.

 

[TheDivaDanielle]

On my car the 8" door speakers ran off a dedicate amp, and the 5x7's run off the HU. Maybe that changed in 2013. I agree the factory sub/amp is about useless.

yes wiring and speaker upgrades for 2013.

slightly more powerful "front" amp as the door speakers turned into components, and the rear amp changed, since there is now just *1* subwoofer back there.