Shaker 500 upgrades??

pickles

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I'd like to get a little more out of my stereo, but I'm not sure where to start.

Can speakers be upgraded without sounding terrible, being that it has factory amps?

I found this online, Looks to be plug and play but I can't find much info about it online. Thoughts/Opinions?

http://www.kicker.com/PMUSP13
 

califsp

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Just buy a decent set of low ohm component speakers for the front doors only. Worth every penny in terms of improvement. Please don't bother with the rears. Not enough power and volume in the oem system to hear them.
 

BadHabit2Break

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Just buy a decent set of low ohm component speakers for the front doors only. Worth every penny in terms of improvement. Please don't bother with the rears. Not enough power and volume in the oem system to hear them.

exactly. I never replaced the rear deck ones....way too much work.
 

Torchy

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Just buy a decent set of low ohm component speakers for the front doors only. Worth every penny in terms of improvement. Please don't bother with the rears. Not enough power and volume in the oem system to hear them.

I'm in the same boat as OP. Which ones should we get?
 

DSG2003SVT

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Does anyone know the ohm rating of the 2013 base stereo speakers? I could just pull the door panel, but I'd like to avoid that and get the answer here if I could.
 

Bizarro

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base speakers are 2 ohms.. for the price and performance, you cant beat pioneer TSA 6x8s

I had a pair of these in my truck that I pulled back out and have been sitting on a shelf for some time. In the spring I'm planning on putting them in my 2011. They were a decent three way speaker that I never had ANY issue out of.
I know the general feeling is it isn't worth the effort to replace the back speakers....but I have two pairs just sitting around. I may just do it as opposed to them just sitting.
 

pickles

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That MTX setup will cost me 750$ canadian.

Piecing together a box/amp/Line-out converter/wiring/sub will cost me about 600$. Will have more power, but it won't be a nice fitting box like the MTX.
 

stang99x

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You can buy an 8" powered sub from Dual for $99 at Fry's Electronics. It may not fit as well as the MTX, but it isn't vehicle specific.
Here's a link to the Amazon listing, slightly higher priced
http://www.amazon.com/Dual-SBP8A-160-Watts-Amplified-Bandpass/dp/B002WN2JS4
For the litte bit it costs, it works really well. I've used one in the trunk of an accord and in the cargo space in a cherokee
 

TheVikingRL

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zinc03svt

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Question? Are those pioneer 6x8 TSA's a simple bolt in replacement for factory Mach 500 door speakers? They seem resonable enough at $54 a pair shipped. I think they are 4 way now.
 

stangn

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I just upgraded my 13 shaker. Used JL c2 speakers in upper doors and shelby 8" subs ( the covers are horrible! Think shelby would be better). JL in deck lid with JL Jx360 amp and 12" JL sub in custom box with old JL 500 mono amp. Factory amps run door speakers. You will need adapters from Ford to change upper speakers in doors. I can now turn the volume to max and it's clear and hits pretty good.
 

mitchster

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Just ordered a set of Infinity Kappa 682.11 for my front speakers. Just need the brackets for both sides and I am ready to go. Mitch
 

Torchy

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According to the OEM 8" door subs they are actually 1.2 ohm. Not a fan of the Shelby stuff in 2010+ cars since it really doesn't match the interior. I replace the door uppers with JL C5-570's and the door subs with ZR800's. Some of the install is outlined in this thread.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?908863-Best-stock-replacement-speakers

Was a bit pricey but sounds awesome and still looks 100% stock.


Yessss I remember this thread but couldn't find it. I think I'm gonna copy it. How do you like it now that you spent some time with it?
 

TheVikingRL

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I love it. An incredible amount of bass considering the enclosure size and none of the muddiness like the stock subs. The factory sub line level signal is pretty weak so used a Audio Control Matrix to clean it up further. I'd honestly recommend doing this first before adding a truck sub.
 

robbyrobs

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I love it. An incredible amount of bass considering the enclosure size and none of the muddiness like the stock subs. The factory sub line level signal is pretty weak so used a Audio Control Matrix to clean it up further. I'd honestly recommend doing this first before adding a truck sub.

i've already replaced my component speakers and added a 10" sub in the rear, with two amps in the trunk. I just tapped off the factory speakers wires into a converter for my rca's. do you think the audio matrix will help my system? the next thing i want to do is replace the 8" subs with either the shelby subs or the JL's that you used, just a matter of how much money i can save
 

TheVikingRL

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i've already replaced my component speakers and added a 10" sub in the rear, with two amps in the trunk. I just tapped off the factory speakers wires into a converter for my rca's. do you think the audio matrix will help my system? the next thing i want to do is replace the 8" subs with either the shelby subs or the JL's that you used, just a matter of how much money i can save

No, the Matrix won't do much since it's really just a line driver designed to clean up and amplify a line-level signal. Since you're starting with a speaker level inputs something like a DQ61 would be more appropriate if you're looking at Audio Control products.
 

466roller

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I looked into the kicker stuff at first too for the plug and play factor but felt it wasn't worth the money. I replaced my door speakers with Alpine Type R 5 1/4 components, JL ZR800's. Powered it with a Alpine PDX-V9. i also have a 10" sub in the trunk. I'm still using my factory head unit. I opted for the Audiocontrol DQ-61 http://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/dq-61/ I like it for the EQ and time delay. I do not have my rear speakers hooked up either. I probably have $1300 into the whole system but I shopped around for the best prices. I feel it was money well spent.
 

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