Set-up w/NT01s

[WutApex]

I'll be putting on some used NT01s for my next track day and the plan is to aim for 38psi and adjust from there. This'll be my first time on the 01s, coming from the NT05s.

I know that tire temps should be taken to determine the correct amount of camber and tire pressure but at this point I don't have a tire probe so I base my estimates on psi as well as how far over I'm rolling onto the sidewall.

With that said - - Does anyone have any baseline numbers for camber/castor/toe with the NT01s?

I'm not sure what I'm running right now but I think the camber is around -1. UNK on castor & toe. Seems okay to me on the NT05s, but I've only ever driven on this current setup and whatever was stock. I've never adjusted anything for better tire contact, turn-in, etc

I'm running 03 A-arms, Bilstein HDs, H&R Race, stock sway & k-member, and MM CC plates. Car has never been bumpsteered.

 

[wheelhopper]

Alignment specs depend a lot on what you do with the car. Are you driving on the street at all?

I would do more than -1 camber even on my street car.

Here are some good track specs for your Mustang
-2.5 camber
1/8" total toe out
as much +caster as possible

I pretty much have used 32psi for my cold pressures with every tire I have used and aim for 38 hot.

 

[Sirl]

X2.
Exactly what he said.
No sense in repeating it.

 

[WutApex]

Yes I do drive on the street w/street tires but honestly most of the time lately its only on the street to get to the track and an occasional run to the store.

 

[TXPD]

the track can also effect camber settings. which track?

 

[WutApex]

the track can also effect camber settings. which track?

I know. That's why I said baseline - I'm not to the point where I fine tune for individual tracks. But I run in Colorado at High Plains, PPIR and Pueblo

 

[pkwest]

I start at 27lbs, 38 is way too high

 

[sn95Cobrakai]

I start at 28psi most of the time.

 

[WutApex]

I wasn't clear in my first post - I'm looking at 38 hot and adjusting from there so I'll start at 30 cold (ambient temps are still low here).

How's running -2.5 on the street? I drive to/from the tracks and one of them is 2hrs away - occasionally on street tires but unfortunately, most of the time I have to drive to the events on my track tires. I thought about using some marks on the CC plates and adjusting camber at the track, but I thought that impacted my toe settings too.

Ideally, I need a trailer, tow vehicle and a pit crew consisting of big-breasted blondes.

 

[MFE]

Don't bother with marking the plates, they slide over each other so it's damn near impossible to use that method. But it's easy this way: Set them to -1.25 camber for the street at whatever your desired toe setting is, then measure and record how far each strut top is from the fender edge next to it. That way you'll always be able to get it back exactly where it was, and it only takes a jack and 2 minutes per side to do it. Then measure and record the distance from strut-to-fender for any other camber settings you like. I keep mine with a silver paint pen on a strip of black gorilla tape on each fender apron. Yes, the car will toe out a little when you add negative camber, but nothing enough to worry about IMO.

 

[Apexracer]

Nitto recommends 32 hot for nto1. I run them cold at 25 psi on the front and 24 RR and 25 LR, with 2.1 neg camber and 4.5 toe. I drive them too and from the track all the time will put over 280 miles on the street per weekend with out any problems they last about 2 to 3 hpde weekends.

 

[wheelhopper]

I start at 27lbs, 38 is way too high

Nitto recommends 32 hot for nto1. I run them cold at 25 psi on the front and 24 RR and 25 LR, with 2.1 neg camber and 4.5 toe. I drive them too and from the track all the time will put over 280 miles on the street per weekend with out any problems they last about 2 to 3 hpde weekends.

I don't know where you guys are getting these numbers. I ran NT01's on a Mustang for a year. I played around with the air pressures and best performance was 38 hot. I checked the Nitto site and did not find anything that recomended 32.

If you are wearing the NT01's out in 3 hpde weekends, you are either driving 8 hours a day or your suspension settings are screwy.

What car are you running -2.1 camber on. If it is a Mustang you are leaving a lot on the table. I was giving a conservative number at -2.5. I actually run more and there are plenty of CMC and AI guys that run -3.5. Also the toe settings you are giving is not what you would want on a mostly track Mustang. You actually want some very slight toe out.

 

[Apexracer]

I meant caster not toe, three weekends of track time is about five hundred miles on average thats a lot to ask out of you front tires! Rears last forever though. As to psi there a bunch of different factors to consider, car set up, driving style ect.

 

[sonic cobra]

I can speak to the neg camber in street use. I find up to -1.5 shows no unusual tire wear on the street but have had serious wear on inside edge at -1.7 and -1.8
You might make out a tad better with less weight on the front than my terminator.

 

[gcassidy]

I can speak to the neg camber in street use. I find up to -1.5 shows no unusual tire wear on the street but have had serious wear on inside edge at -1.7 and -1.8
You might make out a tad better with less weight on the front than my terminator.

Yes, get that iron out of there Paul. LOL

I managed, with grinding the fender and flipping the plates, to get -2.5 & -3.2. And I kept it like that on the street, watching for wear, but not really finding any. I mostly drove it to the track, and an occasional car show, so about 5K a year of street miles. That was on Falken RT615s.

 

[sonic cobra]

I certainly should Greg. If for no other eason than to compensate for the growing weight of the driver over the years.

Anyway,I got lazy and didn't back off the track settings after the Glen last year and subsequently corded the inside edge of a perfectly good pair of RT 615's in 8500 miles. Thats was running -1.8

 

[WutApex]

I like the measure from the fender trick.

So I was thinking, I can take measurements for each change, e.g. -1.5, -2.0, -2.5 then cut some wood or metal to each size to make a guide of sorts. When I'm at the track, I use the guide to adjust the strut into position.

Should be pretty close and a lot easier than measuring at the track...and easier on tires cause ill be more apt to change it back to street specs if its easy.

Thoughts?

 

[sonic cobra]

I too have been trying to come up witha quick and simple way to change camber settings from street to track and back. Like the wood block, I was looking for some kind of jig i could use for repeatability,but a simple measurement will likely be sufficient. So I measured the distance from fender to strut at stock setting. Now i will have it aligned to my track specs which includes zero toe. Record that measurement, then when i decrease the negative camber back to stock it should increase the toe in, which would be desirable . As long as it doesn't toe in too much,it should be good. Will try this for my trip to NJMP in June . It should work.

 

[MFE]

I like the measure from the fender trick.

So I was thinking, I can take measurements for each change, e.g. -1.5, -2.0, -2.5 then cut some wood or metal to each size to make a guide of sorts. When I'm at the track, I use the guide to adjust the strut into position.

Should be pretty close and a lot easier than measuring at the track...and easier on tires cause ill be more apt to change it back to street specs if its easy.

Thoughts?

I don't know, seems easier to keep a tape measure in the toolbox, but whatever works.

 

[gcassidy]

I just thought of this and threw it together in Photoshop.
Shouldn't weigh much more than an iron block.