S/C change, what is required?

[r-u-maching-me]

Sorry guys I also posted this in another forum but I need to try and get the info quickly. I am swaping out a ported S/C and H/E for my friend later this week. The question is do I need any job specific tools for the install. I moved a little while ago and don't have all my tools with me yet. And if you have any tips I would appricate it. Thanks.

 

[Brad]

Sorry guys I also posted this in another forum but I need to try and get the info quickly. I am swaping out a ported S/C and H/E for my friend later this week. The question is do I need any job specific tools for the install. I moved a little while ago and don't have all my tools with me yet. And if you have any tips I would appricate it. Thanks.

apten has a how to, that tells you everything you'll need, go to their site. Pulley pulley if you need to get the pulley off... Air tools are nice for the intercooler cap... Use a torch to get the intercooler bolts off the eaton, ford uses red locker, if you're not super careful you'll break bolts. A second set of hands is key when you're trying to lift the blower to unbolt the intercooler cap.

 

[ChuckysSVT]

The only special tool needed is the Pulley Puller. The rest can be done w/ Metric sockets 13, 10, 8..and a few extensions. A ratchet wrench 10 is handy for removing the bolts on the EGR. A crescent can be used to disconnect the pipe on the EGR...I believe it is a 21mm or a 23mm. Some pliers for the hose clamps on the I/C lines. It is easier to have 2 people to take off the I/C cap on the front of the lower intake....3 10mm bolts and 1 8mm bolt. One has to hold up the snout while the other removes the bolts. To remove the IC bolts you can heat em up..or I just back them out a bit then tighten...then back em out more than tighten..etc until they are out. DONT FORCE THEM..THEY WILL BREAK...than its a bitch. I have changed blowers 6 times now and it takes less than 1/2 hour to remove. About an hour to re-install. The Apten instructions are handy to have the first time. Just make sure to take a shop vac and vacuum the valley between the valve covers and the lower intake to make sure nothing gets between the lower intake and the heads when you go to bolt it back together. Sometimes there is dirt or debris sitting there and you dont want to contaminate the seal. Its real easy....PM if you want some help on the phone when your swappin them.

chuck

 

[Brad]

The only special tool needed is the Pulley Puller. The rest can be done w/ Metric sockets 13, 10, 8..and a few extensions. A ratchet wrench 10 is handy for removing the bolts on the EGR. A crescent can be used to disconnect the pipe on the EGR...I believe it is a 21mm or a 23mm. Some pliers for the hose clamps on the I/C lines. It is easier to have 2 people to take off the I/C cap on the front of the lower intake....3 10mm bolts and 1 8mm bolt. One has to hold up the snout while the other removes the bolts. To remove the IC bolts you can heat em up..or I just back them out a bit then tighten...then back em out more than tighten..etc until they are out. DONT FORCE THEM..THEY WILL BREAK...than its a bitch. I have changed blowers 6 times now and it takes less than 1/2 hour to remove. About an hour to re-install. The Apten instructions are handy to have the first time. Just make sure to take a shop vac and vacuum the valley between the valve covers and the lower intake to make sure nothing gets between the lower intake and the heads when you go to bolt it back together. Sometimes there is dirt or debris sitting there and you dont want to contaminate the seal. Its real easy....PM if you want some help on the phone when your swappin them.

chuck

He's not going to take the lower intake off, so whats he going to vacuum? Where the eaton sits on the lower? Or are you telling him to lift up on the lower, pull the gaskets and vacuum where the lower meets the heads? I cleaned up and replaced my lower intake gaskets, but taking that off means you've got to pull injects rails etc etc...

 

[Silver Serpent]

What does one usually do if they accidentally break the bolt? I am going to install my ported supercharger soon and I have some brand new bolts on the side but I am afraid that I might accidentally break a bolt while it's still inside and I won't be able to remove them.

 

[Brad]

What does one usually do if they accidentally break the bolt? I am going to install my ported supercharger soon and I have some brand new bolts on the side but I am afraid that I might accidentally break a bolt while it's still inside and I won't be able to remove them.

depends on what bolts.. I've broken intercooler bolts... ford used red locker so those are tough, I had to drill it out. To take the intercooler bolts off I'd use a torch to heat them up first. If you break an intake bolt you'd have to remove the lower intake, sometimes you can just back them out with your fingers.. you can also try an eraser on the back of a pencil. Try not to break any :thumbsup:

 

[Emmerson_Biggins]

I'm a dumbass :smmon:

 

[Brad]

It's easy, I've done several and never broke a bolt, or pulled out the torch. As you are loosening the intercooler bolts, if they get tight, run them back in and start to back them out again. It is a tedious process, but it works and you dont have to worry about the fact that you may have warped or compromised the strength of the aluminum by heating it with a torch.

Good Luck !!!

1" thick cast aluminum isn't going to warp when you take a propane torch to it. I broke my first intercooler bolt doing 1/4th turn out, 1/4th back, 1/2 out, 1/2 back, then inching it out, the head twisted right off the threads seeing there was so much red locker in there. After that 15 seconds of heat it's enough to allow you to back those bolts out with a socket on the end of a screw driver.

 

[Emmerson_Biggins]

I'm still a dumbass :smmon: :smmon:

 

[Brad]

Cast aluminum has approximately three times the expansion characteristics of cast iron. Coupled with the fact that you are applying concentrated loocation-specific heat to a machined surface = not good. You can do whatever you want and I'm glad your method has worked out for you, if one were dead set on using heat to aid in the removal of bolts I would recommned using an oven so that the entire piece can expand at the same rate.

With patience and diligence the bolts wll come out without heat, I have never broken one. But this is just my internet e-pinion, as you can see there are different sides to every story. Good luck, no matter how you get it done.

But we’re not talking about iron, we’re talking about aluminum. You’re really underestimating the integrity of 1” thick aluminum under a low temp torch. I agree concentrated heat can be bad, but propane for 15 seconds isn’t going to heat the metal enough to do anything. Other than maybe melt down the locker enough to back the bolts out. If I were applying a mixed type gas torch like acetylene and applying 3000-6000 degrees of heat on it, sure, I’d worry about the metals integrity, but that’s not the case at all. Putting the thing in the oven is a far worse idea seeing stock gasket maker and whatnot will break down at 300+ degrees, then'll you'll have to crack the blower open and replace the gaskets. I had the misfortune of breaking a bolt using the half turn in half turn out method, and it’s a huge huge huge pain in the butt. I took my time too. I’d rather go into it knowing I’m not going to break a bolt over having to drill out a tiny tiny bolt out of threaded aluminum. Either way the more opinions the better I suppose. Keep on truckin :thumbsup:

 

[Emmerson_Biggins]

Yep, you guessed it..........

still a dumbass :smmon: :smmon: :smmon:

 

[Brad]

I'm not talking about iron, either. And the intake should not necessarily be heated to 450 degrees (it will live at 300 degrees so your postulation is incorrect) compromising the sealer between the I/C and manifold. 200 to 250 should do fine.

It will live at 300 degrees so my postulation is incorrect? WTF are you talking about? The intake should not necessarily be heated to 450 degrees, what? You do realize my reason for heating up the blower at the intercooler bolts right? You need 400+ degrees to break down red locker. Maybe we're on different pages now or something. I'm talking about heating up the blower at the intercooler bolts to break the locker to remove them without snapping, I have no idea what page you're on now.

Why would anyone have to crack the blower open?? This makes no sense whatsoever if he is doing a swap. Take the blower off, take the upper off, remove bolts done deal. How does resealing the blower come into this at all??

Ahhhh the internet, ain't it great???

Why would you crack the blower open? Let me explain my logic again, it's in response to this quote if you're confused.

if one were dead set on using heat to aid in the removal of bolts I would recommned using an oven so that the entire piece can expand at the same rate.

If you place the whole blower in an oven to break down the red locker, you're also going to be breaking down every single other seal in the blower. You'll need 400+ degrees to melt down the locker. The snout has it's own gasket maker between it and the rotor gear housing, and the rotor gear housing has it's own gasket maker between it and the blower case. None of those gaskets are rated above 200 degrees. I wouldn't trust those anymore after they've melted like that. Plus I'm not sure you'd want to expose the rear bearing grease which is rated at no more than 170 to 400 degrees. Not sure about the seal between the rotors shafts and the bearings anymore either.

This is why after your recommendation of heating the blower in an oven I'd suggest a rebuild.
:thumbsup:

 

[Emmerson_Biggins]

Ahh, yeah. My bad (WTF was I thinking??) I somehow got it in my head we were talking about a lower on a KB, I need more sleep.

It would certainlt not be a good idea to shove an Eaton in the oven, you're right there LOL.

As you were, I have officially lost my marbles. (I still don't know how I got it my head we were talking aout a KB???) :smmon:

 

[Brad]

Ahh, yeah. My bad (WTF was I thinking??) I somehow got it in my head we were talking about a lower on a KB, I need more sleep.

It would certainlt not be a good idea to shove an Eaton in the oven, you're right there LOL.

As you were, I have officially lost my marbles. (I still don't know how I got it my head we were talking aout a KB???) :smmon:

I wouldn't want to put a kenne bell in an oven either.. haha.. get some sleep :coolman:

 

[Emmerson_Biggins]

Yeah but I was thinking about the lower manifold, you know it seperates from the KB so you could just stick the lower with the intercooler in the oven, and leave the KB off the car.................

nevermind


Jesus, I'm rambling, that's it. It's bedtime :sleeping:

 

[Brad]

Yeah but I was thinking about the lower manifold, you know it seperates from the KB so you could just stick the lower with the intercooler in the oven, and leave the KB off the car.................

nevermind


Jesus, I'm rambling, that's it. It's bedtime :sleeping:

yeah I'm pretty lost on this myself now... get to bed asap... I'm going to go back to polishing my lower intake.. wonder if that will do anything for flow.. :shrug:

 

[r-u-maching-me]

Thanks for all the input everybody. It will make things go much easier.

 

[ChuckysSVT]

He's not going to take the lower intake off, so whats he going to vacuum? Where the eaton sits on the lower? Or are you telling him to lift up on the lower, pull the gaskets and vacuum where the lower meets the heads? I cleaned up and replaced my lower intake gaskets, but taking that off means you've got to pull injects rails etc etc...

When you lift up the blower to remove the I/C cap...the Lower intake is still attached to the blower. So If you want to risk any contamination while you have the lower lifted off of the heads...dont clean it. It doesnt matter if your not going to remove the lower intake...it is still lifted up in the front and there is chance of crap getting onto the gasket or even falling down the ports for that matter. As for the I/C bolts if your really concerned..buy a propane torch...heat up the bolts (they dont have to be glowing hot) and back them out. All your trying to do is break up the lock-tite so the bolt doesn't get bound up. Dont forget to use some RED locktite when re-installing. If one of those bolts backs out and falls into the intake it wouldnt be fun.

On a side note...you dont have to remove the injectors and rails to remove the lower. You only have to disconnect the fuel line at the rails and the whole assy will lift out. There is a wire loom attached to the back of the lower...you cant see it very well but it is a simple push connector that you can pull off of the lower before you remove it. Good luck...have fun :thumbsup:

 

[Brad]

When you lift up the blower to remove the I/C cap...the Lower intake is still attached to the blower. So If you want to risk any contamination while you have the lower lifted off of the heads...dont clean it. It doesnt matter if your not going to remove the lower intake...it is still lifted up in the front and there is chance of crap getting onto the gasket or even falling down the ports for that matter. As for the I/C bolts if your really concerned..buy a propane torch...heat up the bolts (they dont have to be glowing hot) and back them out. All your trying to do is break up the lock-tite so the bolt doesn't get bound up. Dont forget to use some RED locktite when re-installing. If one of those bolts backs out and falls into the intake it wouldnt be fun.

On a side note...you dont have to remove the injectors and rails to remove the lower. You only have to disconnect the fuel line at the rails and the whole assy will lift out. There is a wire loom attached to the back of the lower...you cant see it very well but it is a simple push connector that you can pull off of the lower before you remove it. Good luck...have fun :thumbsup:

Hehe, I know how it works, I'm just failing to picture how you're cleaning under the lower intake without removing it. Just because it lifts up with the eaton doesn't mean there is room to vacuum anything under there. When I did my swap I removed the whole lower and replaced the gaskets to boot, I can't imagine cleaning down there just by lifting the lower up, whatever works I guess though. Also I think I can pull all 8 injectors out faster than pulling the fuel line, haha.

 

[ChuckysSVT]

How long does it take to disconnect the fuel feed line...? It takes less time than it takes you to read this thread....and he will definately have the blower swapped before you actually comprehended what is written. Go back to your Mags.. :loser: