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2011-2014 Mustangs
2011-2014 Mustang Talk
Roushcharger arrived today
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<blockquote data-quote="kevinp" data-source="post: 10451784" data-attributes="member: 106826"><p>I'm getting a VMP tune, I have an auto so Roush doesnt offer a tune.</p><p></p><p>Spent about 8 hours on it today, about 80% done, I post a couple thoughts so far:</p><p></p><p>Everything is very high quality, instructions are very good as well. I ddint use their order to do things but if you follow them its hard to screw up.</p><p></p><p>On a 1-10 dificulty scale, 10 being the hardest, I would give this about a 6. Keep in mind I have been doing stuff like this for over 30 years and have a decent selection of tools.</p><p></p><p>As far as tools, besides a decent 3/8 torque wrench you will need a 4" angle grinder for the timing cover clearance. Its a messy job, I covered the car with a plastic tarp, and taped off the engine tight. There will be a crapload of aluminum dust so make sure to cover every open hose, water line etc.</p><p></p><p>You have to re-pin a few harnesses, I have a set of release tools for Delphi metripacks and none worked. For 6K Roush should include the right tool, they cost about 6.00 so it wont break the bank. Its not something you can go and buy quick local, otherwise it wouldnt be a big deal. I used the old jewelers screwdriver, the right tool would have saved an hour.</p><p></p><p>I have an auto and Ford uses a different check valve for the brake booster then cars have used for the last 60 or so years, manual trans cars use the regular style check valve on the booster. Thats what the extra hose going to the intake tube is for. I havent been able to find out why Ford does it this way on an auto trans, my only guess would be to purge moisture from the line since a manual pulls a lot more vacuum on decell maybe its not needed. Anyhow, I just put a check valve on the booster from a manual trans car, the fitting on the booster of an auto car is just a 90 degree fitting and the check valve is up front. Not an issue with a manual trans car.</p><p></p><p>Also had to remove the bracket from the trans cooling lines on the shroud and make a new one, not an issue with a manual trans car.</p><p></p><p>Other than that everything is pretty straight forward, no parts missing and everything was well packaged.</p><p></p><p>Should be driving it tomorrow afternoon if I get the tune..</p><p></p><p>Few pics:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]158739[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]158740[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]158741[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="kevinp, post: 10451784, member: 106826"] I'm getting a VMP tune, I have an auto so Roush doesnt offer a tune. Spent about 8 hours on it today, about 80% done, I post a couple thoughts so far: Everything is very high quality, instructions are very good as well. I ddint use their order to do things but if you follow them its hard to screw up. On a 1-10 dificulty scale, 10 being the hardest, I would give this about a 6. Keep in mind I have been doing stuff like this for over 30 years and have a decent selection of tools. As far as tools, besides a decent 3/8 torque wrench you will need a 4" angle grinder for the timing cover clearance. Its a messy job, I covered the car with a plastic tarp, and taped off the engine tight. There will be a crapload of aluminum dust so make sure to cover every open hose, water line etc. You have to re-pin a few harnesses, I have a set of release tools for Delphi metripacks and none worked. For 6K Roush should include the right tool, they cost about 6.00 so it wont break the bank. Its not something you can go and buy quick local, otherwise it wouldnt be a big deal. I used the old jewelers screwdriver, the right tool would have saved an hour. I have an auto and Ford uses a different check valve for the brake booster then cars have used for the last 60 or so years, manual trans cars use the regular style check valve on the booster. Thats what the extra hose going to the intake tube is for. I havent been able to find out why Ford does it this way on an auto trans, my only guess would be to purge moisture from the line since a manual pulls a lot more vacuum on decell maybe its not needed. Anyhow, I just put a check valve on the booster from a manual trans car, the fitting on the booster of an auto car is just a 90 degree fitting and the check valve is up front. Not an issue with a manual trans car. Also had to remove the bracket from the trans cooling lines on the shroud and make a new one, not an issue with a manual trans car. Other than that everything is pretty straight forward, no parts missing and everything was well packaged. Should be driving it tomorrow afternoon if I get the tune.. Few pics: [ATTACH=full]158739[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]158740[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]158741[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Roushcharger arrived today
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