Rod Bearings? Need some help!

[Black1999Cobra]

I was driving up to me parents house this weekend and noticed that the engine seemed like it was missing...like a spark plug wasnt firing. I only noticed it under load in 5th (crusing on the highway going up a hill it would studder) and feels like it was a little low on power. I figured I would just make it to where I was going (~40 miles on highway) and take a look once I got there.

So I made it to the parents house and after some listening under the hood, it sounds like a ticking on the passenger side that gets louder when you rev it up. I did some research here and the general consensus is that its the rod bearings and is most likely nothing to do with the valves/valve train. I parked it.

I didnt have time to check it by unpluggin the injectors (and the sound goes away when you unplug the right cylinder) or changing the oil (for shavings).

Any idea if I diagnosed it right? If it is rod bearings, can they just be replaced? What is a general price for bearings and install from a dealer (I plan to call tomorrow)?

Is there anything I can do short of replacing the whole engine or is it pretty much toast and replacing the bearings is going to delay the inevitable of replacing the engine?

The car still runs ok (when I was checking for the sound). I checked the dip stick and there doesnt seem to be any shavings on it.

I guess this is what I get for thinking about selling it due to a baby on the way.

 

[Quadcammer]

Hard to say over the web. Ticking sounds more valvetrain related, as opposed to knocking. Is it a deep sound, or is it more tinny? Regardless, these aluminum motors transmit a lot of sound, so it can be hard to tell. A true oil pressure gauge will tell you something, as will that injector test and cutting open the filter.

You can replace rod bearings, but its far from easy, and its a huge risk given that you basically can't check tolerances or anything. its a bit of a chuck it in there in and pray. a jury rigged solution if you will.

To do it right, the motor has to come out, crank has to be checked for damage, as do the rods. At that point you can replace bearings and do other mods if you want.

 

[Black1999Cobra]

It sounded more like ticking or tinny like a higher pitch than it did a lower (bassier) sound.

So, you can replace the rod bearing is the motor is removed and everything is checked? Any idea price wise if that is better/cheaper than just buying a new motor?

 

[01 Venom]

as quad said you can just replace them but I wouldnt recomend it. If it is the bearings there my be metal shavings in the oil cooler or in other places in the motor that will cause damage later.

However I think youre jumping the gun. I would pull your plugs to make sure one didnt come un seated. Or just take it to a good mechanic and get it looked over first.

I wouldnt think the worst just yet

 

[Black1999Cobra]

as quad said you can just replace them but I wouldnt recomend it. If it is the bearings there my be metal shavings in the oil cooler or in other places in the motor that will cause damage later.

However I think youre jumping the gun. I would pull your plugs to make sure one didnt come un seated. Or just take it to a good mechanic and get it looked over first.

I wouldnt think the worst just yet

I guess what I was wondering is can they be replaced and the answer is yes...but everything must be checked.

I will check the plugs, change the oil looking for shavings, and unplug the injectors to see if stops the noise.

I am more trying to prepare for the worst and hope for the best.

 

[01 Venom]

Ya to do it right though, the motor should come out, have a complete tear down and rebuild. At that point you may be better off looking into a short block.

 

[Koval7887]

If you are a good backyard mechanic, you can get away with just replacing the rod bearings (given that your crank isn't ****ed). The SAME thing happened to me. I drove it VERY little after it happened, so my crank was unharmed. My Cylinder #5 rod bearing went, however, mine did NOT spin fortunately. It essentially delaminated. It took me a few days of working on it a few hours a day to fix it. If you have a weekend free, you can tackle it in a day or two. As long as your crank is not scored or grooved in any way, you should be fine. The rod bearings set are only 30-something bucks at Summit. Support the engine from the top, disconnect your strut, abs sensors, and tie rod ends, and let remove the 8 bolts holding in your k-member. You'll also have to disconnect your steering rack line and the steering shaft. Get a new oil pan gasket, and keep everything VERY clean. Plasigage them all. Pray that your crank is unmolested, and you should be fine. I have 1400 miles on my new bearings and haven't had a single problem yet. I'm glad I tried this for minimal money before dropping a few grand on a decent shortblock. Good luck!

 

[Black1999Cobra]

Well after many people looking at it, your not going to believe this. It was just a spark plug. The insulator on plug #1 came loose and was free to move up and down the spark plug making some noise. The movement affected the gap and in the end caused it not to spark. (Thus the explanation for no compression on cylinder #1.) My dad changed the plugs (2 other ones were loose enough that he did not even need a wratchet to remove them - probably the reason why the compression was ever so slightly lower on 2 other cylinders) and after restarting the car, everything went back to normal. No more noise, no more missing, nothing.

Another thing I found out was that cylinder #1 powers/has something to do with the oil pump working properly. I have never heard of this, but my dad who has built Ford engines for 35+years, the dealership, and my brother who works for Honda all agreed that cylinder one is some how used for the oil pressure. This is probably the reason for the noise, it was low on oil pressure (the factory gage still read the same, but that only means I had 6 psi??).

The car never threw a code or anything. I have a couple pics to attach to show the plug. I have driven it back (90 miles), my dad drove it for ~30 minutes, and I have been driving it without a peep or miss since the plugs.

Thanks for all the advice and offering to help. I really didnt know what I was going to do until my dad called and said "sit down, your not going to believe this...".

 

[Un4GivN]

Good to hear!

 

[Koval7887]

Wow u must be happy! I'm surprised none blew out and ****ed up your threads! you are luckier than u think dude! congrats!

 

[Quadcammer]

Well after many people looking at it, your not going to believe this. It was just a spark plug. The insulator on plug #1 came loose and was free to move up and down the spark plug making some noise. The movement affected the gap and in the end caused it not to spark. (Thus the explanation for no compression on cylinder #1.) My dad changed the plugs (2 other ones were loose enough that he did not even need a wratchet to remove them - probably the reason why the compression was ever so slightly lower on 2 other cylinders) and after restarting the car, everything went back to normal. No more noise, no more missing, nothing.

Another thing I found out was that cylinder #1 powers/has something to do with the oil pump working properly. I have never heard of this, but my dad who has built Ford engines for 35+years, the dealership, and my brother who works for Honda all agreed that cylinder one is some how used for the oil pressure. This is probably the reason for the noise, it was low on oil pressure (the factory gage still read the same, but that only means I had 6 psi??).

The car never threw a code or anything. I have a couple pics to attach to show the plug. I have driven it back (90 miles), my dad drove it for ~30 minutes, and I have been driving it without a peep or miss since the plugs.

Thanks for all the advice and offering to help. I really didnt know what I was going to do until my dad called and said "sit down, your not going to believe this...".

uh, your post, unfortunately, is a disaster.

1. whether a spark plug is firing or not has no affect on the compression in that cylinder.

2. cylinder 1-8 have something to do with oil pressure, because the oil pump is run off the flats of the crankshaft. Even with a dead miss on one cylinder, if you have the same rpm, you should have the same oil pressure. Although I suppose the extra vibration from a miss could cause a minor fluctuation in oil pressure, nothing about cylinder one is special as far as the oil pump is concerned.

3. If it was low on oil pressure before, it still is. post the numbers.

4. Have you looked at that spark plug? It looks oil fouled as hell to me. Notice how the porcelain is a shiny black and not white as expected? Look at all the gunk on the ground strap.

I hate to tell you this, and Im glad the noise is gone, but I think you have some major issues in that cylinder.