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The Terminator
Suspension Modifications
replacing rear diff bushings.....question inside
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<blockquote data-quote="postban" data-source="post: 3593961" data-attributes="member: 3706"><p>Bad idea, leaving the chewing gum soft rear one. A brace will protect your cover but your diff will still be moving violently.</p><p></p><p></p><p>You can do it man. Maybe post up in your local forum for some help.</p><p></p><p>or........seek the RED PILL</p><p></p><p>STEP by STEP Differential removal (w/o removing IRS)</p><p></p><p><strong>STEP 0</strong> ziploc baggies and sharpie marker for every piece, label them as you remove them.</p><p></p><p><strong>1)Get car up on 4 jackstands</strong> with the tires about 8-10" off the ground</p><p>in the rear and 4-6" in the front. A little angle is important to keep</p><p>the trans from leaking when you pull out the driveshaft.</p><p></p><p><strong>2)Remove catback.</strong> Soap or spray lube on the hangers ease insertion/removal.</p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>3)Remove Driveshaft</strong> use 12pt 12mm socket. Pull it out of the trans.</p><p></p><p><strong>4)Remove tires</strong> 13/16" socket.</p><p></p><p><strong>5)Remove lower shock bolt.</strong> 18mm socket, disconnect bottom only, leave them hanging.</p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>6)Remove Emergency brake cables</strong>. There are little c-clips mounting them to the calipers. Make sure e-brake is</p><p>off, of course. Also have a helper pull all the slack to the side you are working on. DO NOT remove the spring, way harder to get it back together. Just push on the little arm holding the cable end till you can work it out. I use vice grips to compress it. </p><p></p><p><strong>8)Remove brake calipers</strong>, two 15mm bolts. Use some coat hanger wire or zip ties and hang them from the IRS mount bracket or anywhere out of the way.</p><p></p><p><strong>9)Disconnect Toe Link Bar</strong> from spindle. Pull out cotter pin. Remove castle nut 18mm. <strong>DO NOT HIT</strong> the taper bolt with a hammer, you will crush it because of the cotter pin hole. You can either use a tie rod puller (Autozone 25202 3.5") or the pry bar way. Spray taper bolt with penetrating oil, use long screwdriver or prybar and apply downward force on the cast end of the bar while striking the rearmost point on the spindle. Pry downward and hit it hard, it will come out.</p><p></p><p><strong>10)Remove halfshaft/spindle assy.</strong></p><p>Put jack underneath bottom of spindle where it meets LCA, just support it. Mark the position of the eccentric washer on the Camber Bolt where the UCA mounts to the top of the spindle. <em>You will realign these marks during reassembly to maintain current suspension setting. Forgetting to do this will mess up your tires and ride feel.</em></p><p>Remove upper spindle/UCA bolt 18mm. </p><p>Lower jack all the way down allowing the springs to stretch out. Remove jack.</p><p>Remove lower spindle/LCA bolt 18mm.</p><p>Pull halfshaft out about 1/2"</p><p>Use flat screwdriver/prybar between diff and inner hub to make sure it is coming out of the diff. Pull halfshaft all the way out.</p><p></p><p><strong>Repeat other side.</strong></p><p></p><p><strong>11)Remove two 18mm bolts</strong> from diff cover-to-rear bushing. Leaves the rear diff bushing bracket hanging momentarily while we proceed to get the diff out.</p><p></p><p><strong>12)</strong>Remove Front Differential bushing bolts 15mm</p><p></p><p><strong>13)</strong> Remove nuts off front (only) LCA pivot bolts 24mm. Leave the bolts in place though. This allows the front differential support brace to be removed. </p><p></p><p><strong>14)Remove Diff. Support</strong> rear of diff with a jack, remove front support brace and diff will move forward and down and out of the car. It is about 70lbs so be careful. Do not tip it or you will spill "fish guts" the nastiest smelling oil there is.</p><p></p><p><strong>15)</strong>Remove Rear Differential bushing bracket bolt. 15mm and lots of extensions from the drivers side. Very tough to get to initially. Easier if you also remove drivers side toe link bar from its inner mounting point 15mm.</p><p></p><p>Good time to reseal the diff with Permatex Ultra Grey ($4 Autozone) or Ford TA31 Diesel Sealant ($15 dealer only)</p><p></p><p><strong>Reassemble in reverse order.</strong></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="postban, post: 3593961, member: 3706"] Bad idea, leaving the chewing gum soft rear one. A brace will protect your cover but your diff will still be moving violently. You can do it man. Maybe post up in your local forum for some help. or........seek the RED PILL STEP by STEP Differential removal (w/o removing IRS) [B]STEP 0[/B] ziploc baggies and sharpie marker for every piece, label them as you remove them. [B]1)Get car up on 4 jackstands[/B] with the tires about 8-10" off the ground in the rear and 4-6" in the front. A little angle is important to keep the trans from leaking when you pull out the driveshaft. [B]2)Remove catback.[/B] Soap or spray lube on the hangers ease insertion/removal. [B] 3)Remove Driveshaft[/B] use 12pt 12mm socket. Pull it out of the trans. [B]4)Remove tires[/B] 13/16" socket. [B]5)Remove lower shock bolt.[/B] 18mm socket, disconnect bottom only, leave them hanging. [B] 6)Remove Emergency brake cables[/B]. There are little c-clips mounting them to the calipers. Make sure e-brake is off, of course. Also have a helper pull all the slack to the side you are working on. DO NOT remove the spring, way harder to get it back together. Just push on the little arm holding the cable end till you can work it out. I use vice grips to compress it. [B]8)Remove brake calipers[/B], two 15mm bolts. Use some coat hanger wire or zip ties and hang them from the IRS mount bracket or anywhere out of the way. [b]9)Disconnect Toe Link Bar[/b] from spindle. Pull out cotter pin. Remove castle nut 18mm. [b]DO NOT HIT[/b] the taper bolt with a hammer, you will crush it because of the cotter pin hole. You can either use a tie rod puller (Autozone 25202 3.5") or the pry bar way. Spray taper bolt with penetrating oil, use long screwdriver or prybar and apply downward force on the cast end of the bar while striking the rearmost point on the spindle. Pry downward and hit it hard, it will come out. [b]10)Remove halfshaft/spindle assy.[/b] Put jack underneath bottom of spindle where it meets LCA, just support it. Mark the position of the eccentric washer on the Camber Bolt where the UCA mounts to the top of the spindle. [I]You will realign these marks during reassembly to maintain current suspension setting. Forgetting to do this will mess up your tires and ride feel.[/I] Remove upper spindle/UCA bolt 18mm. Lower jack all the way down allowing the springs to stretch out. Remove jack. Remove lower spindle/LCA bolt 18mm. Pull halfshaft out about 1/2" Use flat screwdriver/prybar between diff and inner hub to make sure it is coming out of the diff. Pull halfshaft all the way out. [b]Repeat other side.[/b] [b]11)Remove two 18mm bolts[/b] from diff cover-to-rear bushing. Leaves the rear diff bushing bracket hanging momentarily while we proceed to get the diff out. [b]12)[/b]Remove Front Differential bushing bolts 15mm [b]13)[/b] Remove nuts off front (only) LCA pivot bolts 24mm. Leave the bolts in place though. This allows the front differential support brace to be removed. [b]14)Remove Diff. Support[/b] rear of diff with a jack, remove front support brace and diff will move forward and down and out of the car. It is about 70lbs so be careful. Do not tip it or you will spill "fish guts" the nastiest smelling oil there is. [b]15)[/b]Remove Rear Differential bushing bracket bolt. 15mm and lots of extensions from the drivers side. Very tough to get to initially. Easier if you also remove drivers side toe link bar from its inner mounting point 15mm. Good time to reseal the diff with Permatex Ultra Grey ($4 Autozone) or Ford TA31 Diesel Sealant ($15 dealer only) [B]Reassemble in reverse order.[/B] [/QUOTE]
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replacing rear diff bushings.....question inside
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