replacing rear diff bushings.....question inside

[geepaw]

is there a way to replace the rear diff bushings without having to remove
halfshafts, control arms etc...? I hate to have to do this as I have
never removed halfshafts and do not have the patience seeing as
my car has been on jacks for 4 months doing bushings and c/o's
as time allows.

Can I get away with stock rear Diff bushings and MM poly Diff front
bushings if I have the billetflow diff brace? ie. can I do
hard launches with this set-up and not crack the pumkin
having the harder bushings MM in front of the diff and the
squishy stocks in the rear?

 

[postban]

Bad idea, leaving the chewing gum soft rear one. A brace will protect your cover but your diff will still be moving violently.


You can do it man. Maybe post up in your local forum for some help.

or........seek the RED PILL

STEP by STEP Differential removal (w/o removing IRS)

STEP 0 ziploc baggies and sharpie marker for every piece, label them as you remove them.

1)Get car up on 4 jackstands with the tires about 8-10" off the ground
in the rear and 4-6" in the front. A little angle is important to keep
the trans from leaking when you pull out the driveshaft.

2)Remove catback. Soap or spray lube on the hangers ease insertion/removal.

3)Remove Driveshaft use 12pt 12mm socket. Pull it out of the trans.

4)Remove tires 13/16" socket.

5)Remove lower shock bolt. 18mm socket, disconnect bottom only, leave them hanging.

6)Remove Emergency brake cables. There are little c-clips mounting them to the calipers. Make sure e-brake is
off, of course. Also have a helper pull all the slack to the side you are working on. DO NOT remove the spring, way harder to get it back together. Just push on the little arm holding the cable end till you can work it out. I use vice grips to compress it.

8)Remove brake calipers, two 15mm bolts. Use some coat hanger wire or zip ties and hang them from the IRS mount bracket or anywhere out of the way.

9)Disconnect Toe Link Bar from spindle. Pull out cotter pin. Remove castle nut 18mm. DO NOT HIT the taper bolt with a hammer, you will crush it because of the cotter pin hole. You can either use a tie rod puller (Autozone 25202 3.5") or the pry bar way. Spray taper bolt with penetrating oil, use long screwdriver or prybar and apply downward force on the cast end of the bar while striking the rearmost point on the spindle. Pry downward and hit it hard, it will come out.

10)Remove halfshaft/spindle assy.
Put jack underneath bottom of spindle where it meets LCA, just support it. Mark the position of the eccentric washer on the Camber Bolt where the UCA mounts to the top of the spindle. You will realign these marks during reassembly to maintain current suspension setting. Forgetting to do this will mess up your tires and ride feel.
Remove upper spindle/UCA bolt 18mm.
Lower jack all the way down allowing the springs to stretch out. Remove jack.
Remove lower spindle/LCA bolt 18mm.
Pull halfshaft out about 1/2"
Use flat screwdriver/prybar between diff and inner hub to make sure it is coming out of the diff. Pull halfshaft all the way out.

Repeat other side.

11)Remove two 18mm bolts from diff cover-to-rear bushing. Leaves the rear diff bushing bracket hanging momentarily while we proceed to get the diff out.

12)Remove Front Differential bushing bolts 15mm

13) Remove nuts off front (only) LCA pivot bolts 24mm. Leave the bolts in place though. This allows the front differential support brace to be removed.

14)Remove Diff. Support rear of diff with a jack, remove front support brace and diff will move forward and down and out of the car. It is about 70lbs so be careful. Do not tip it or you will spill "fish guts" the nastiest smelling oil there is.

15)Remove Rear Differential bushing bracket bolt. 15mm and lots of extensions from the drivers side. Very tough to get to initially. Easier if you also remove drivers side toe link bar from its inner mounting point 15mm.

Good time to reseal the diff with Permatex Ultra Grey ($4 Autozone) or Ford TA31 Diesel Sealant ($15 dealer only)

Reassemble in reverse order.

 

[geepaw]

I was told that you need a special tool to put the
haflshafts back in to prevent damage to the seals.
Is this correct?

thanks postban... :beer:

 

[Glfbaluhwakrguy]

I just did mine, they're not that bad.

Now about having a special tool....I don't think there is any special tool that is absolutely necessary, i could be wrong, but from what i read you just want to be very careful as to not damage the seals. The rest is pretty simple, they just pop right in. Mine are fine. :shrug:

 

[postban]

I was told that you need a special tool to put the
haflshafts back in to prevent damage to the seals.
Is this correct?
...

who told you that?
Tool Part no#/description?

I think they were full of :bs:

 

[gud2goe]

i m with postban(thanks postban for all the how toos)
just pop them out and pop them back in...just do pry on the seal...
just dont do half...i went with the mm aluminium setup

check out postbans links..mm has some good links too

 

[03supersonic]

i just helped somebody do theirs it's not that bad. use the force luke skywalker

 

[SVTgriff]

I just bought the steeda diff bushings for install Friday....

Are these front or back bushings...? Steeda part# 555-4015

I was unaware there was fronts and backs.

 

[postban]

I just bought the steeda diff bushings for install Friday....

Are these front or back bushings...? Steeda part# 555-4015

I was unaware there was fronts and backs.

Send em back

the Steeda ones melt.... and just doing the fronts will not help with hop but does increase possibility of the front differential ears BREAKING OFF. The original rubber fronts are actually kinda high durometer (Stiff) for rubber. The back bushing is chewing gum soft in comparison. Holding the front ears and allowing the back to flex is not a good idea, those ears can and have broken off.


Do all three or leave the stock bushings in.

Friends don't let friends buy bad bushings.

 

[MidLifeC]

Ford does have a special tool that is used to prevent damage to the seals when inserting the half shafts into the diff case. I highly doubt you need it if you use a reasonable amount of common sense.

 

[postban]

pic of the back bushing (white delrin replacement Brand N)

You can buy the rear bracket already modified from PHP $105, which makes it a simple parts swap instead of needing bushing removal tools.
http://secure-order-area.net/paulsh...age=523210&type=&frame=&cart_id=6978156_17581

 

[RKANYZ]

who told you that?
Tool Part no#/description?

I think they were full of :bs:

Differential Seal Protector
205-461. it is BS, gets in the way more than anything. just use care when installing the halfshaft to go straight in and touch the sides as little as possible.

 

[SVTgriff]

Send em back

the Steeda ones melt.... and just doing the fronts will not help with hop but does increase possibility of the front differential ears BREAKING OFF. The original rubber fronts are actually kinda high durometer (Stiff) for rubber. The back bushing is chewing gum soft in comparison. Holding the front ears and allowing the back to flex is not a good idea, those ears can and have broken off.


Do all three or leave the stock bushings in.

Friends don't let friends buy bad bushings.

Thanks for tip bro!

Called and had MM rush ship the complete set to me (part# MMIRSB-45)....

I am installing the BF diff brace, H&R springs, and now the diff bushings this Friday in a local SVTOA wrenching party. Hope they make it to me on time!

 

[postban]

Thanks for tip bro!

Called and had MM rush ship the complete set to me (part# MMIRSB-45)....

I am installing the BF diff brace, H&R springs, and now the diff bushings this Friday in a local SVTOA wrenching party. Hope they make it to me on time!

Ok, sounds good, full diff pull instructions in the RED PILL, that will be a some good wrenching!

 

[SVTgriff]

Ok, sounds good, full diff pull instructions in the RED PILL, that will be a some good wrenching!

Just a heads up to others...

This set comes with a tool for install/removal.

 

[04cobrasvt]

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