I have a 97 cobra with Mac longtube headers. Well awhile ago i started to hear a horrible exhaust leak on the headers. I looked and on the passenger header, the farthest cylinder back, one of the bolts is completely gone and then the next cylinder one of the bolts was half way out. Well the problem i have is that i cant even touch the hole in the farthest one back. It is so cramped, I was barely able to get a mirror down there to make sure the bolts not snapped off and it's not. I never was able to fully tighten the other header bolt b/c i could hardly get a wrench on it. I took the motor mount nuts off and jacked the motor up almost completely out of the allignment spaces until it was putting pressure on stuff on the drivers side and none of it helped. I just put it back together and have been dealing with it. I ordered some stage 8 locking header bolts and am ready to try this again so i just want to know if i'm missing some magic trick or some stupidly easy thing to do. I thought about removing the starter and trying from the bottom but just by looking it seems that there is no room. I'm up for any ideas at all, i have the time and patience for this, i just need the know-how. Thanks, Brady
Replacing header bolts...NEED HELP
- Thread starter bolinger06
- Start date
This isnt what you want to hear but, yeah there is a magical trick to get to that bolt. Drop the K member, and lower the motor down as far as you can get it. When we put my headers on we still ahd a bitch of a time geting to some of the bolts with the motor lowered. But really it is virtually the only way.
Is two of the bolts came out, theres a good chance that gasket is ruined. Id say drop the K, replace both gaskets, and put the stage 8s in.
Did you use new hardware for the install? Was it the bolts that came with the headers? If so, you should have used stock hardware or gone back about a week later to retighten them after they heat cycled. Also use plenty of thread locker. Live and learn.
Did you use new hardware for the install? Was it the bolts that came with the headers? If so, you should have used stock hardware or gone back about a week later to retighten them after they heat cycled. Also use plenty of thread locker. Live and learn.
KotnmthKng said:
I dont think I would use any type of threadlocker on aluminum heads. Always use anti-sieze on hardware that is going in aluminum.
I dont know about Macs, but ive done 4 BBK LT header installs. 3 97 cobras and a 01 Bullit; and I never droppped the k-member (although it would have been alot easier) But if you lift the engine and move some stuff outta the way, you should be able to get to all the bolts.
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KotnmthKng said:
well said. Only use FRPP gaskets and DO NOT use thread lock in aluminum. Some nice anti-seize would be great. Also, grab some of the ratcheting style wrenches. They help out a ton.
i didn't put them in, they were on the car when i bought it. The gasket doesn't look bad, but i guess it should be replaced. There metal gaskets that say ford on them.
I was also going to say drop the k member, it will make stuff alot easier.
As for the thread lock, i was told that the high heat would not even make it work. but that is just what i was told.
As for the thread lock, i was told that the high heat would not even make it work. but that is just what i was told.
Don't use anti-seize either. Use new hardware and torque them to spec. Thats all u need.
SVTContique
New Member
Terrible idea, have you ever tried to do headers on a car that didnt have anti-sieze on it? That is how you snap manifold studs...Lightning&Mach1 said:
ALWAYS use Anti-sieze.
I dont get why some of you guys do headers, i could see maybe if you had a lot of free time and didnt care that the project is a PITA, but for me, ill just get my power from something else, headers are way to hard to do for what you get out of them.
Trust me I've done more header swaps than alot of guys on here and never had a problem. And I don't have customers coming back because their headers are leaking. If you snap a manifold stud its becuase you didnt clean the hole out after you removed the old stud. The key thing with our aluminum heads is to clean the holes out and be sure not to cross thread the stud. Torque them down to spec and they should never leak on you. And one more thing get new ford exhaust gaskets they are alot better than the crap gaskets you get with some headers.
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SVTContique
New Member
So please explain why you wouldent use anti-sieze?
Lightning&Mach1 said:
+1 & blue threadlocker is fine. just use some heat when taking the bolts out.
At my buddys exhaust shop we use anti seize on all aluminum parts, his installer has been doing it for 30 years, he uses this copper looking stuff from mercedes, none of my headers have leaked on any of my cars (5 cars). I'm not saying it's needed, but I do use it. I have also watched him use blue threadlocker on iron stuff.
MB PART#001-989-47-51 good stuff
Im thinking snkbit is a magician. Im stuck now on my 96 snake with bbk's there is no way i could even tighten the bolts on the drivers side lower rears, not can I get any of the studs back in on the top last three on the pass side.
Got a guy coming over to help remove the Kmember Saturday. I cant see how it was done, if so the motor was out, was lifted out, or magic.
If you can lend some advise, please do to help me out
thanks
Got a guy coming over to help remove the Kmember Saturday. I cant see how it was done, if so the motor was out, was lifted out, or magic.
If you can lend some advise, please do to help me out
thanks
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