removing upper control arm mount, i'm stuck

[TXRickC]

:shrug:

Ive got the large 24mm bolt from under back seat out and underneath the 1st 18mm screw came out but the 2nd 18mm just keeps popping real loud. it seems to have gotten a little loose but it's real tight and pops. Any ideas?

 

[Catmonkey]

Only possibilities I can think of are the socket isn't the right one or it's split, or the rivnut is no longer attached to the body.

 

[TXRickC]

Socket looks good, it's correct size

 

[Catmonkey]

I'm afraid you may have a problem then. Besides the popping, is the bolt backing out? I'm afraid that riv nut is enclosed within the body, so I'm not sure how you would access it.

 

[TXRickC]

it did get loose, but I'm worried if I continue then will i be able to get a bolt to tighten back up

 

[Catmonkey]

I think I'd try to get a closer look at what is going on. Perhaps you can get a camera up there to get a better look and make sure that the threaded nut is properly secured to the body when the bracket is out. Once you get the bracket out, you might thread the bolt in and see if you can move the bolt such that it would indicate if the nut is not properly attached. I've had mine out a number of times and never had any problem. Good luck.

 

[99SSls1]

Mine did the same thing just keep going it will come out.

 

[Robert M]

Sounds like the factory Loctite is binding the threads as you are trying to loosen that bolt. Once you do get it out, I would run a tap in each hole to clear all old/dry/hard Loctite out and then use new Loctite on the clean threads. I would also clean the Loctite off of the bolt threads on a wire wheel or run a correct die on the threads to clean them. Leaving the old/dry/hard Loctite on the threads will cause the bolt to bind (be harder) to reinstall and also give false torque wrench readings, because the bolt is getting tighter partially from the Loctite.

^^^This is also advisable for the tank strap bolts with the T-50P torx heads.

R

 

[Tight Lines]

Another option to try, if you are down to one bolt, try to use a pry bar under the mount (between the body and mount) which will apply pressure to the head of the bolt and may put enough pressure on the rivot nut. Put the socket back on while applying the pressure and see if it will loosen up. Good luck and I mean that.

 

[TXRickC]

Thanks for the tips, it did finally come out. Next issue was needing to lower gas tank an inch to get the mount out. BMR said its rare for a 2011-up needing to do that but they've said maybe 1 out of 25 is like that.

 

[99SSls1]

I had to on my 11, get for the bolt popping sound again.

 

[barspen]

Next issue was needing to lower gas tank an inch to get the mount out. BMR said its rare for a 2011-up needing to do that but they've said maybe 1 out of 25 is like that.

I had to drop the tanks on my 2011 for the UCA install. Pretty easy to do, just be careful backing out the strap bolts since they are covered in Loctite. Highly suggest you run as much fuel out of the car to lighten up the tanks first.

 

[Tight Lines]

Had to drop mine too. It would be a good idea to get the correct Torx bit for the gas tank straps. T-50 plus, not the standard T-50.

Good luck, to me the gas tank bolts were the worst part of the UCA install. Felt like they were going to snap, thank god they didn't.

How did you get the bolt out you had problems with?

 

[zporta]

im had my car up on jack stands and crawled under the car on my back. using my knees to hold the gas tank while i unbolted the straps. Swap the mounts out quickly and reverse the process

 

[Tob]

im had my car up on jack stands and crawled under the car on my back. using my knees to hold the gas tank while i unbolted the straps. Swap the mounts out quickly and reverse the process

I used the same procedure and it worked perfectly.

 

[Robert M]

Had to drop mine too. It would be a good idea to get the correct Torx bit for the gas tank straps. T-50 plus, not the standard T-50.

Good luck, to me the gas tank bolts were the worst part of the UCA install. Felt like they were going to snap, thank god they didn't.

^^^Yes, it is best to drive the car to a low level of fuel in the tank before a UCA/UCM upgrade is attempted...................just in case the tank does have to be dropped. Fuel is heavy and if the straps are loosened and the tank is free, a slight weight shift with a fuel heavy tank can be a real pain to deal with under the car on your back. <<Not to mention it is much easier to get a lighter tank back into its proper position rather than trying to fight with a heavy tank. I drove my car until it said "20 miles to empty" and I knew the tank was getting light enough to take on this project.


R

 

[TXRickC]

How did you get the bolt out you had problems with?

I picked up an impact and put it on it, it didn't back it out or tighten it but I guess it did something because I was able to remove the bolt with socket afterwards, same going back in. It popped a few times then went in. Torqued then installed LCA.s too and drove about 70 miles today.

 

[Tight Lines]

Glad to hear it worked out!