I’ve got the cotter-pin and nut off but cant seem to get it to fall out of the socket. The instructions I have say to hammer on the top of the bolt after the nut is removed. I tried that but don’t want to get to crazy with beating in it.
Removing the tie-rod ends
- Thread starter Corona-Extra
- Start date
put the castle nut back on and hammer that. Don't hammer the stud itself.
Turn your castle nut upside down, screw it down until its flush with the threads. Using a sizeable hammer(I use a 48oz) give it a good sharp whack.
good God i had to beat the shit out of it... but i got it off lol thanks guys
Please don't beat on them with a hammer. :rollseyes Save the hammer for when you work on your buddy's Corvette! :lol:
See the 5th photo in this thread:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=547820
:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
See the 5th photo in this thread:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=547820
:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
damn.. thats a nice piece.. i guess you could rent/buy that from any tool place?
yep, you can rent those from AutoZone. Very simple and effective tool. It pains me to hear of using a hammer on the tie rod. But at least its off now!
and, while I would never recommend using a hammer, if its all you have, you dont hit the ball joint stud, you hit the area of the knuckle where the stud goes through the hole. Eventually the harmonic vibrations will pop the stud out of the hole. you may have to reuse that ball joint, so there's no reason to mushroom the stud.
But it takes less time, less effort, and doesn't leave 'evidence of an ill-equipped technician' to use the $20 tool
I'm not sure the one bruce pictures will work on the fronts. The rears have a much meatier casting around that area becuase its aluminum instead of steel, so the rears will take the larger puller [which is actually a pitman arm puller].
I use this on the fronts:
Universal Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D - OTC7315
and this on the ball joints:
OTC Tools 6297 Ball Joint Separator OTC6297
If a hammer and a pickle fork look like the right tools for the job, you really need to rethink what you're doing. Like medicine, the first rule of auto repair is do no damage.
But it takes less time, less effort, and doesn't leave 'evidence of an ill-equipped technician' to use the $20 tool
I'm not sure the one bruce pictures will work on the fronts. The rears have a much meatier casting around that area becuase its aluminum instead of steel, so the rears will take the larger puller [which is actually a pitman arm puller].
I use this on the fronts:
Universal Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D - OTC7315
and this on the ball joints:
OTC Tools 6297 Ball Joint Separator OTC6297
If a hammer and a pickle fork look like the right tools for the job, you really need to rethink what you're doing. Like medicine, the first rule of auto repair is do no damage.
John:
Correct you are. A pickle fork is fine as a removal tool only if you're replacing the joints. Otherwise they rip the bejeebers out of the boots.
FWIW
:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
Wow! OTC sure is proud of their stuff. Sears has the same tools in the K-D brand for about $58, the pair. Both are shown on this page ...
Tie rod end separator & ball joint separator
Tie rod end separator & ball joint separator
tastes better because it costs more, maybe? 
thanks for the link to cheaper tools, taz!
thanks for the link to cheaper tools, taz!
If you cant beat it out then heat it with a torch and try wacking at it again
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