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The Terminator
Engine/Tuning
Remote Oil Cooler installed and pics of my thermostat bypass setup for track use
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<blockquote data-quote="SlowSVT" data-source="post: 8236826" data-attributes="member: 20202"><p>Couple of suggestions.</p><p></p><p>Removing the cornering light to supply the cooler won't provide the volume of air needed to conduct heat away from the oil cooler effectively. I would remove the entire bezel and relocate the brake duct cooler pointing downward in front of the K-member air deflector which will receive high pressure. Extending the air deflector closer to the ground to prevent the air from bypassing the rad will increase the pressure in front of the K-member will increase the air pressure and will force more air into the rad and brake duct.</p><p></p><p>From what I can see the oil cooler is not sealed between the intake and exhaust side. Most of what little air is getting in there will just go around it seeking the path of least resistance. Some ducting shroud forcing the air thru and out the cooler would do a better job then just sealing around it.</p><p></p><p>The cooler is angled relative to the airflow is a major "no no". It should be mounted vertical relative to the incoming air stream to minimize airflow restriction. The area immediately in front of the fan is the only place that will have air passing thru it that will take advantage of the cooling surface available. Anything outside the fan aperture won't be very effective cooling the oil with this current set-up.</p><p></p><p>The screen used in the fender liner is very restrictive and will allow very little air to pass through it. If the area behind and below the cooler is open, is a good place to exhaust the air. Some ducting with a nice curve pushing the air downward in front of the fender liner would be a good place to exhaust the air. Kydex sheet plastic 1/16" thick is a good material for ducting. It can be bent sharp and gradual as needed. Port Plastic in Industry, CA carries it.</p><p></p><p>Off the top of my head I would say the oil cooler you are using is about 20% efficient with your current set-up. There is a better method integrating an oil cooler in a Cobra fender. I have experience conducting airflow studies to evaluate forced air and convection cooled systems used to cool telecommunications systems as will as CFD using FEA computer modeling tools so I have some experience here. You can PM me if you have any question.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SlowSVT, post: 8236826, member: 20202"] Couple of suggestions. Removing the cornering light to supply the cooler won't provide the volume of air needed to conduct heat away from the oil cooler effectively. I would remove the entire bezel and relocate the brake duct cooler pointing downward in front of the K-member air deflector which will receive high pressure. Extending the air deflector closer to the ground to prevent the air from bypassing the rad will increase the pressure in front of the K-member will increase the air pressure and will force more air into the rad and brake duct. From what I can see the oil cooler is not sealed between the intake and exhaust side. Most of what little air is getting in there will just go around it seeking the path of least resistance. Some ducting shroud forcing the air thru and out the cooler would do a better job then just sealing around it. The cooler is angled relative to the airflow is a major "no no". It should be mounted vertical relative to the incoming air stream to minimize airflow restriction. The area immediately in front of the fan is the only place that will have air passing thru it that will take advantage of the cooling surface available. Anything outside the fan aperture won't be very effective cooling the oil with this current set-up. The screen used in the fender liner is very restrictive and will allow very little air to pass through it. If the area behind and below the cooler is open, is a good place to exhaust the air. Some ducting with a nice curve pushing the air downward in front of the fender liner would be a good place to exhaust the air. Kydex sheet plastic 1/16" thick is a good material for ducting. It can be bent sharp and gradual as needed. Port Plastic in Industry, CA carries it. Off the top of my head I would say the oil cooler you are using is about 20% efficient with your current set-up. There is a better method integrating an oil cooler in a Cobra fender. I have experience conducting airflow studies to evaluate forced air and convection cooled systems used to cool telecommunications systems as will as CFD using FEA computer modeling tools so I have some experience here. You can PM me if you have any question. [/QUOTE]
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Remote Oil Cooler installed and pics of my thermostat bypass setup for track use
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