Reliability of the Aluminum block..

[Blown01GT]

I have heard a lot of stuff about the aluminum block not being very strong etc.

I am probly gonna be in the 500+rwhp range with my 01 Cobra motor and I am just kinda nervous about putting a hole in it. How strong and reliable are these things?

 

[SVTHorsnake]

I'm running 11 lb sans intercooler, and I know of atleast 2 people here at 14 lb intercooled and well past the 500 rwhp mark... it's all in the tune...

:beer:

 

[99COBRA2881]

I read that 96-99 blocks were supposedly stronger. They were made by a company called Tiksed, which also makes blocks for Ferrari.

 

[Blown01GT]

Originally posted by 99COBRA2881
I read that 96-99 blocks were supposedly stronger. They were made by a company called Tiksed, which also makes blocks for Ferrari.

This worries me.

I dont wanna spend all the money on a forged SB and all only to bust a hole in the side of the block.

 

[Wylde Horses]

Originally posted by Blown01GT
This worries me.

I dont wanna spend all the money on a forged SB and all only to bust a hole in the side of the block.

If you throw a rod, there will probably be a hole in your block no matter what year it is. If you supercharge, you are probably safe running up to ~430 or so horsepower before the bottom end becomes really strained. I say probably because you could very well break something at 400 hp as well. SCing the stock bottom end is never 100% safe, and the likelyhood that you will break something increases exponentially as you increase the hp.

If you don't want to risk a hole in your block, stay n/a until you have saved up for a forged bottom end.

 

[Blown01GT]

Originally posted by Wylde Horses
If you throw a rod, there will probably be a hole in your block no matter what year it is. If you supercharge, you are probably safe running up to ~430 or so horsepower before the bottom end becomes really strained. I say probably because you could very well break something at 400 hp as well. SCing the stock bottom end is never 100% safe, and the likelyhood that you will break something increases exponentially as you increase the hp.

If you don't want to risk a hole in your block, stay n/a until you have saved up for a forged bottom end.

I have a forged SB. I am worried about the block, not the pistons/rods.

 

[Wylde Horses]

Originally posted by Blown01GT
I have a forged SB. I am worried about the block, not the pistons/rods.

Then I don't think you have much to worry about. I've heard you can run up to 1000 hp on the block. The crank is good to 700 though.

 

[103]

The block is just fine. The stronger block is the 96-98. not 99.

 

[Quadcammer]

okie dokie. here is some more info.

96-98 and 99 had teksid blocks. they are stronger then the WAP 01 block

WAP=windsor assembly plant

the wap blocks are thinner and although they look more sturdy from the outside that is because they added support to make up for the thinner material. I have a WAP block and im not so happy about it.

however, these blocks will still hold all you can throw at them. Main studs are very important.

however, the block has nothing to do with a rod breaking.

you will not crack the block with a centrifugal supercharger so stop worrying. as long as its built right it should handle the power just fine.

 

[Quadcammer]

Originally posted by Wylde Horses
Then I don't think you have much to worry about. I've heard you can run up to 1000 hp on the block. The crank is good to 700 though.

sorry man this is BS. the crank is the best piece of the entire car bar none. the crank will not break. it will handle just about anything. mihovetz uses a modified stock crank, i think yours will be fine. even in stock form, the crank is good for way more then 700.

the block would only be good for 1000 hp with some sort of block filler to prevent flex. at that level, a stud girdle is necessary to prevent cap walk and flex.

mihovetz runs a 96-98 block but at his level, the block is almost compltely filled.

an unfilled block may hold 1000 hp but you are pushing the envelope especially depending on your poweradder.

 

[Wylde Horses]

Originally posted by quadcammer
sorry man this is BS. the crank is the best piece of the entire car bar none. the crank will not break. it will handle just about anything. mihovetz uses a modified stock crank, i think yours will be fine. even in stock form, the crank is good for way more then 700.

the block would only be good for 1000 hp with some sort of block filler to prevent flex. at that level, a stud girdle is necessary to prevent cap walk and flex.

mihovetz runs a 96-98 block but at his level, the block is almost compltely filled.

an unfilled block may hold 1000 hp but you are pushing the envelope especially depending on your poweradder.

Hmm, I was sure I'd heard the cranks were only good to 700 hp. I'll have to look that up again.

edit: Couldn't find where I read about the crankshaft strength, but as for the block, yes it can quite easily handle 1000+ hp with block filler. Without block filler, these block have run up to ~800 hp before the block started showing signs of stress.

 

[HISSMAN]

The Cranks in these cars are good to about 1000 hp. They are as stong a crank as most 99% of the people with these engines will ever need.

 

[103]

My mistake. I seriously thought that the WAP block started in 99. I stand corrected.

OK then... Here's a nice and difficult question. My motor was assembled 09/06/00. Is this a Teksid block or had they already started the WAP block at this point?

 

[103]

BTW, I just got off the phone with SVT and they are telling me the Teksid block ended after 98 and the 99 got the WAP... Not calling you a liar by any means, I'm simply throwing this out there.

 

[HISSMAN]

Yes. I am 200% sure that 1998 was the last year of the Teksid block. 99 was the beginning of the WAP.

 

[Quadcammer]

Well then sean hyland is a liar. the block was changed in 99. it eliminated the jack screws and had smaller knock sensor holes.
SHM book says they are still cast by teksid.

a way to tell is if they have a lot of ribbing in the V.

i had a 99 block that looked like a teksid block from the SHM book.

i wonder who is lying here.

however, the wap block is not as strong as they others ones.

btw, quick correction on my part, WAP stands for Windsor Aluminum Plant, not assembly.

103, you can check. shine a light by the bottom of the intake on the drivers side. if you can see a little rib going up the V, then you have a WAP. if not, its a teksid.

 

[HISSMAN]

My copy of Hylands book says that the Teksid blocks ran from 96-98.

 

[ReallyRedCobra]

Hmm I thought some of the 01 blocks were teksid?

 

[HISSMAN]

Now, having said everything else that I have posted. It is possibel that Ford may have had some Teksid blocks left over from the 98 year run, and used them in a few 99's, but the majority, if not all of the 99 Cobra blocks are WAP blocks.

 

[tommyhil4_6]

Originally posted by SVTHorsnake
I'm running 11 lb sans intercooler, and I know of atleast 2 people here at 14 lb intercooled and well past the 500 rwhp mark... it's all in the tune...

:beer:

Your cars running now? Thats awesome. I installed my rear suspension last night, guages day before, and 03 cobra tank/pumps day before that. Turbos gets sent to jet hot tomorrow morning and about a week or so turnaround to me....