I installed mine today took about 4.5 hours do to my fault. I want to preface this by saying Ray Hilton did a great job putting this together and his instructions are top notch. What an excellent mod that Larryc7777 started!!!!
:thumbsup:
I wanted to give the rest of you some input from my experience so you'll know what else to look for and avoid the mistakes I almost made.
Rays instructions are very detailed and you must follow them but when you get to the point of removing the boost gauge needle be extra careful here. I used the tool that Ray recommends and it works perfect. I made the mistake of not being extra carefull with the tool and ended up prying off the needle on an angle that loosed up the pin inside the gauge that holds the needle. It almost fell into the gauge. What I did to fix is I used a very small needle nose and a small pocket size screw driver. I pulled up on the pin at the same time pressing the little screw driver down on the flat piece that the pin presses into so I could lock it back in.
Be very very careful here.
Also I did not follow Rays instructions concerning the pump tool to calibrate the gauge after the overlay is on. I wish I had. I could not find it at Napa, AZ, Advance. I did not check Sears or Lowes who probably would have had it. Get this tool before you start!!!!!!!
Instead I took the harder route like a dumb ass and used my compressor with the air in the tank reduced to 20psi so I would not damage the gauge with to much pressure.
I tee'd in an adjustable air regulator to the gauge and the boost gauge I borrowed from my sons car. All these connections caused some air leaks that had to be fixed to accurately calibrate the gauge. After quite a bit of wasted time I finally got it right and rechecked it mutiple times to verify.
I had previously taken the gauge cluster out and trimmed off the stop without removing the needle so I had already increased the length of the vacuum hose going to the boost gauge. Make sure that you use some tight vacuum hose and a barbed fitting using wire ties to tighten up these connections so you have no pressure leaks.
As Ray accurately describes in his instructions. The gauge cluster is a PITA to remove from the dash. If you have big hands I feel sorry for you because it is a tight tight fit to squeeze your hand in behind the cluster to unplug the two connectors that are at the top on each end.
One last observation is I used two small skinny pieces of plastic (resembled a popsicle stick only skinner and paper thin, almost a toothpick) to hold the overlay on two edges instead of using my fingers. This allowed me to get the right angle to lay the overlay on exactly in the correct location.
I also disconnected the battery before starting and left my keys in the house as a precautionery measure.
I hope this helps and remember FOLLOW RAYS DIRECTIONS!!!!!
I am seeing about 14lbs of boost at wot.
:thumbsup:
:thumbsup:
I wanted to give the rest of you some input from my experience so you'll know what else to look for and avoid the mistakes I almost made.
Rays instructions are very detailed and you must follow them but when you get to the point of removing the boost gauge needle be extra careful here. I used the tool that Ray recommends and it works perfect. I made the mistake of not being extra carefull with the tool and ended up prying off the needle on an angle that loosed up the pin inside the gauge that holds the needle. It almost fell into the gauge. What I did to fix is I used a very small needle nose and a small pocket size screw driver. I pulled up on the pin at the same time pressing the little screw driver down on the flat piece that the pin presses into so I could lock it back in.
Be very very careful here.
Also I did not follow Rays instructions concerning the pump tool to calibrate the gauge after the overlay is on. I wish I had. I could not find it at Napa, AZ, Advance. I did not check Sears or Lowes who probably would have had it. Get this tool before you start!!!!!!!
Instead I took the harder route like a dumb ass and used my compressor with the air in the tank reduced to 20psi so I would not damage the gauge with to much pressure.
I tee'd in an adjustable air regulator to the gauge and the boost gauge I borrowed from my sons car. All these connections caused some air leaks that had to be fixed to accurately calibrate the gauge. After quite a bit of wasted time I finally got it right and rechecked it mutiple times to verify.
I had previously taken the gauge cluster out and trimmed off the stop without removing the needle so I had already increased the length of the vacuum hose going to the boost gauge. Make sure that you use some tight vacuum hose and a barbed fitting using wire ties to tighten up these connections so you have no pressure leaks.
As Ray accurately describes in his instructions. The gauge cluster is a PITA to remove from the dash. If you have big hands I feel sorry for you because it is a tight tight fit to squeeze your hand in behind the cluster to unplug the two connectors that are at the top on each end.
One last observation is I used two small skinny pieces of plastic (resembled a popsicle stick only skinner and paper thin, almost a toothpick) to hold the overlay on two edges instead of using my fingers. This allowed me to get the right angle to lay the overlay on exactly in the correct location.
I also disconnected the battery before starting and left my keys in the house as a precautionery measure.
I hope this helps and remember FOLLOW RAYS DIRECTIONS!!!!!
I am seeing about 14lbs of boost at wot.
:thumbsup:
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