Quick question: anyone using the NOS window switch with built in TPS WOT switch? If so, have you heard or seen them burn up after just two hits? I mean literally burn up, the unit smoked and was visibly melted from the heat, PLUS it also zapped my throttle body and #5 coil on plug (the RPM signal wire was wired to #5). I ended up losing all throttle control, threw a CEL and MX wrench light, the code I pulled with the handheld was P2135 (TPS correlation error)...luckily a buddy has his car down for maintenance and loaned me his throttle body, but after the swap we found the #5 COP was also burnt crispy (literally, the shielding was cracked, melted and gone in places where it grounded out) and the cylinder was dead on the drive back home. Robbed a COP from his car, and she runs again.
The weird thing is that it ran fine until the issue arose about five minutes into the test drive. After the near fire, I removed the box and direct wired a push button for a simple control from my hand (no WOT or window switch) and it runs fine again...could I just have had a bad box from Jegs???
To note: I wired everything as instructed in the paperwork EXCEPT I mistakenly pulled TPS signal from the negative side (falling signal 4.5->0.0v instead of rising signal) but I did adjust this in the box since it will work for both rising and falling TPS signals. Other than that, I wired it on it's own fused circuit straight from the battery to a caged switch (instead of to an ignition "hot" power source) so that I could operate it with the car not running for troubleshooting, etc. I double and triple checked my circuits, they all were correct.
One other thing that could have screwed things up...I drained the battery dead that day and had to jump it. Shortly after that I swapped to a step colder plugs, while changing the #4 spark plug I accidentally touched the socket extension to the battery "positive" post while the socket was in the head, basically arc welding it for a split second. I'm not positive but this could have killed all three components (window switch, throttle body, COP) or at least fried the window switch which them burnt up the other two. I'm thinking the latter as it ran for several minutes and made it a few miles down the road before totally going nuts on me.
Long story short - I'm a little frazzled from this experience with the WOT/window switch setup, and for the time being am going to use a handheld launch button or maybe an old school WOT switch on the backside of the gas pedal. My only worry is about hitting the nitrous too soon, as I was spraying from 3000-7000 with the window switch but now am waiting until 3000 on the tach to spray and am holding it continuously through every shift. Do these intakes get enough air velocity to be able to spray sooner than 3000??? Also, do I need to retard 4* on 100 shot (6* on 150) or can I stick with 4* on 150 or stock timing on the 100? Right now I have a second tune with a default 4* pulled out throughout the entire range, but at the track it was a complete dog out of the hole until I hit it at 3000, and I'd like to fix this somehow (guessing I need to keep stock timing until 3000 and then retard it?)
The weird thing is that it ran fine until the issue arose about five minutes into the test drive. After the near fire, I removed the box and direct wired a push button for a simple control from my hand (no WOT or window switch) and it runs fine again...could I just have had a bad box from Jegs???
To note: I wired everything as instructed in the paperwork EXCEPT I mistakenly pulled TPS signal from the negative side (falling signal 4.5->0.0v instead of rising signal) but I did adjust this in the box since it will work for both rising and falling TPS signals. Other than that, I wired it on it's own fused circuit straight from the battery to a caged switch (instead of to an ignition "hot" power source) so that I could operate it with the car not running for troubleshooting, etc. I double and triple checked my circuits, they all were correct.
One other thing that could have screwed things up...I drained the battery dead that day and had to jump it. Shortly after that I swapped to a step colder plugs, while changing the #4 spark plug I accidentally touched the socket extension to the battery "positive" post while the socket was in the head, basically arc welding it for a split second. I'm not positive but this could have killed all three components (window switch, throttle body, COP) or at least fried the window switch which them burnt up the other two. I'm thinking the latter as it ran for several minutes and made it a few miles down the road before totally going nuts on me.
Long story short - I'm a little frazzled from this experience with the WOT/window switch setup, and for the time being am going to use a handheld launch button or maybe an old school WOT switch on the backside of the gas pedal. My only worry is about hitting the nitrous too soon, as I was spraying from 3000-7000 with the window switch but now am waiting until 3000 on the tach to spray and am holding it continuously through every shift. Do these intakes get enough air velocity to be able to spray sooner than 3000??? Also, do I need to retard 4* on 100 shot (6* on 150) or can I stick with 4* on 150 or stock timing on the 100? Right now I have a second tune with a default 4* pulled out throughout the entire range, but at the track it was a complete dog out of the hole until I hit it at 3000, and I'd like to fix this somehow (guessing I need to keep stock timing until 3000 and then retard it?)
