Rear rotors and pads shot at 39,000 miles?

[03Predator]

Took my 04 Cobra in to have the Sport Springs replaced with Race Springs and the shop called and told me the rear pads were worn. I gave my okay to replace them. Then he calls me back and says the rotors are shot as well. I know virtually nothing about brakes or any of that stuff so I asked him why the rears wore out before the fronts and he said something like this: "It might have something to do with the geometry of the car due to the IRS. Perhaps it squats rather than...when it stops." :dw: Does that sound like a b.s. explanation to anyone else? lol I bought the car with under 12,000 miles on it. I've owned it for eight years and have put around 27,000 miles on it in that time.

Is there a sensor that should have alerted me to a brake problem? Is it common for rotors to wear so quickly and before the fronts??? I feel like I'm being swindled, to be honest. The shop is already charging me...it's actually embarrassing to admit how much they're gouging me for the spring swap. *gulp* $937. Please don't bash, I'm not a car mechanic, have no tools. I'm kind of at the mercy of others as far as mods and repairs go.

Anyway, I told them to leave the brakes and that the springs were already costing me more than I anticipated.

 

[Goose17]

Traction control uses rear brakes.

 

[jpk]

That's a lot of miles to go without replacing the pads, so I'd say you did well to get that much life out of them. Unless you always baby the car, brakes and tires are a frequent wear item. I don't really know about the rotors, it depends. Normally I'd guess you can get through two sets of pads for every one set of rotors.

 

[Zemedici]

SWEET baby jesus that spring install price

And sweet baby jesus at that explanation of rear brakes wearing before fronts

and sweet baby jesus at them not noticing you need rotors until after they tell you they need pads

 

[weaselp1]

SWEET baby jesus that spring install price

And sweet baby jesus at that explanation of rear brakes wearing before fronts

and sweet baby jesus at them not noticing you need rotors until after they tell you they need pads

^this and then some ..... i did springs myself and i always do brakes by myself but my friend pad a local shop 300 to install his springs ...

brakes are easy and there is no way the rears should go faster than the front ...i normally change 2 front pads before i replace the rears...changing just rear pads on the cobra take less than 1 hour for me and that is jacking the car up removing tire and taking my time with a beer or two....

as far as the rotors, did the shop check the rotor for minimum thickness? there is a minimum thickness and once the rotor hits that, then you need to replace the rotor...unless of course the rotor is warped...then you can maybe turn it or just get a new one.

i would say you got taken OP. I would find a local guy that is trustworthy and knows how to work on these cars if you arent doing your own work. good luck

 

[03Predator]

Back from Les Schwab (not my first choice but hubby has had good experience with them and work cars). Here are the measurements for the rear rotors: LR = .668 and RR = .674. Tech told us the rotors don't seem to be the correct parts ...that they aren't thick enough. He said Cobra rotors should be replaced at 1.039. They also said the rear pads are at 2mm so they do NOT need to be replaced just yet. I've contacted the previous owner and asked if he ever changed rear rotors on the car. Waiting for his response. Is it possible to wear the rotor down THAT much? :shrug:

Live and learn on the price. I should say that price also included installation of CC plates. Does that make it any better? lol

Edit: I should also add that we've NEVER replaced the rear brake pads on this car so... Something isn't adding up. Also, I DO baby the car. I don't brake hard, don't race it, etc.

Edit 2: One last thing, I popped the hood at Les Schwab before heading home to have a look at the CC plates and...it seems the right side is hitting the underside of the hood. There's a chip in the paint where the center piece of the CC plate touches the hood. Is this something to be concerned about? Ugh! It appears that the right side plate is closer to the fender than the other one. This misplacement is probably why it's hitting the hood. Is there anything that can be done or is it now that the holes have been drilled this is just where it's at now???

^this and then some ..... i did springs myself and i always do brakes by myself but my friend pad a local shop 300 to install his springs ...

brakes are easy and there is no way the rears should go faster than the front ...i normally change 2 front pads before i replace the rears...changing just rear pads on the cobra take less than 1 hour for me and that is jacking the car up removing tire and taking my time with a beer or two....

as far as the rotors, did the shop check the rotor for minimum thickness? there is a minimum thickness and once the rotor hits that, then you need to replace the rotor...unless of course the rotor is warped...then you can maybe turn it or just get a new one.

i would say you got taken OP. I would find a local guy that is trustworthy and knows how to work on these cars if you arent doing your own work. good luck

 

[Rich'sTRsvt]

The hole that is drilled shouldn't be in any other place then where the 3 factory ones place it. The top plate is set to where the car's alignment is correct, I am assuming they did an alignment.

 

[03Predator]

We haven't had the alignment done yet. We were fed up with them by the time they finished the install the next day we just wanted to pick the car up. We're getting an alignment done another day. That shop doesn't do alignments anyway. They took it to another shop where it sat before we picked it up.

My concern is that one plate is closer to the fender than the other and it's hitting the hood when it's closed.

The hole that is drilled shouldn't be in any other place then where the 3 factory ones place it. The top plate is set to where the car's alignment is correct, I am assuming they did an alignment.

 

[Mystic03]

wow 937? jesus H christ! you need to find a reliable terminator owner that does his own work on his car to help you out with it..highway robbery imo

 

[weaselp1]

rear rotors do not need to be replaced at 1.039..the original thickness of new rear rotors is .710 !!!!
please see chart i have attached .... this shop is taking you for a ride ...find a new one ASAP

 

[03Predator]

Oh! Thank you very much, Weaselp1!!! I thought it sounded ludicrous. It was Les Schwab who made the comment on the thickness but apparently the shop who installed the springs thought the same thing since they said the rotor was "gone".

 

[03Predator]

Mystic03, I would if they existed. I live in a fairly small community in comparison to you and others on here. Not many Cobra owners around here. I'm trying to make some new contacts but it's not easy. It's to the point where it would almost be easier to learn how to do it myself and invest in the necessary tools. Being female, I don't think I could stand all the grease. lol

 

[Zemedici]

GOOD god they're taking you for a ride.

I would go back and raise cane about your hood (which is discontinued from Ford, and extremely difficult to obtain) is damaged, and demand they rectify the situation.

Hell, for the $1000 spring install they should have given you rear brakes for free.

And 2mm DOES NOT require replacement of the pad, but a rotor that's lost less than 1/4 of its thickness does?

Man, this shop has so much talent inside its walls it must be hard to move around.

 

[Mystic03]

Mystic03, I would if they existed. I live in a fairly small community in comparison to you and others on here. Not many Cobra owners around here. I'm trying to make some new contacts but it's not easy. It's to the point where it would almost be easier to learn how to do it myself and invest in the necessary tools. Being female, I don't think I could stand all the grease. lol

tucson is prob just as small..its all EXP. im sure being a female a few guys will show you how to work on your car hopefully the right way lol

 

[03Predator]

GOOD god they're taking you for a ride.

I would go back and raise cane about your hood (which is discontinued from Ford, and extremely difficult to obtain) is damaged, and demand they rectify the situation.

Hell, for the $1000 spring install they should have given you rear brakes for free.

And 2mm DOES NOT require replacement of the pad, but a rotor that's lost less than 1/4 of its thickness does?

Man, this shop has so much talent inside its walls it must be hard to move around.

Zemedici, it is almost unbelievable how gullible they thought we were. Although, in their defense, we DID accept the quote so... I'm just glad we decided to NOT believe them about the failed brakes.

tucson is prob just as small..its all EXP. im sure being a female a few guys will show you how to work on your car hopefully the right way lol

Actually, no, the town I live in has a population of 15,000 and the nearest city...Eureka...a mere 27,000. That's a far cry from Tuscon's half a mill. lol

 

[FromGTtoSVT]

threads like this make me sad.....sorry you are dealing with this crap.

as for the cc plates, they have spacers that come with them. Based on this shop's performance thus far, I'd be VERY careful assume they are installed incorrectly. I have seen the plates/bolts in some instances make contact with the hood, but its more often done when they are installed incorrectly. An alignment will help flush this out....

Have you visited the "taste of home" section of svtp? I don't know CA at all, but chances are there might be someone near you who can help out.

 

[weaselp1]

Mystic03, I would if they existed. I live in a fairly small community in comparison to you and others on here. Not many Cobra owners around here. I'm trying to make some new contacts but it's not easy. It's to the point where it would almost be easier to learn how to do it myself and invest in the necessary tools. Being female, I don't think I could stand all the grease. lol

I second you learning on how to work on your car - then that way you know the job is done right and it will save lots of money. You can buy a starter toolset from sears with basic hand tools that will let you accomplish many things yourself for around $150-$200. Then look at the how to section and get the cobra manual installed on your computer for proper torque specs. We all started somewhere and now seems like a great time to learn! Please let me know if you have further questions and feel free to PM me. And if you do take your cobra to a shop again, run the quote past us on SVTP and we can let you know if you are getting taken.

I see this way too frequently, a shop taking advantage of someone - happens all the time and its just not bc you have a cobra or are male or female. I do 95% of all work myself, but if I do need to take my car into a shop, I have 2 trusted shops (one for my cobra and one for my daily driver) that i can trust that the work will get done correctly. This is a super sad thread, but it seems like you have learned alot and going forward this wont happen again to you!

 

[ripnesscobra]

I agree with FromGTtoSVT.

I installed my Maximum Motorsports CC plates and one of the steps is installing spacers at the top of the strut shaft (above and below spherical bushing of CC plates) and checking for clearance with the hood. That step is shown in Step 21 of these installation instructions http://www.maximummotorsports.com/assets/install/pdf/front_susp/MMCC0304.pdf

I am assuming you either have MM CC plates or similar ones which have similar spacers. If so, check the configuration of the spacers on both sides (how many are on top and bottom and the thicknesses of the spacers). If the side that is hitting the hood has the same spacer configuration as the side which is not hitting, I would recommend rearranging the spacers on both sides so you have at least 1/8" clearance between the top of the strut shaft and hood. The easiest way of doing that is by moving a spacer that is currently on top to the bottom to lower the strut shaft away from the hood.

In terms of one plate being closer to the fender than the other, that is likely just because you haven't had an alignment done yet. The plates are made to be able to move forward/backward and side to side during an alignment which alters the struts position. This allows the person aligning the car to be able to dial in caster and camber to the desired settings. So they likely just bolted them in any position because you have to tighten them to drive the car. But they are not in the correct positions because you haven't had an alignment done yet.

I hope this helps.

 

[Mystic03]

Actually, no, the town I live in has a population of 15,000 and the nearest city...Eureka...a mere 27,000. That's a far cry from Tuscon's half a mill. lol[/QUOTE]


Half the population is illegal immigrants so that doesn't count :lol1:

 

[03Predator]

threads like this make me sad.....sorry you are dealing with this crap.

as for the cc plates, they have spacers that come with them. Based on this shop's performance thus far, I'd be VERY careful assume they are installed incorrectly. I have seen the plates/bolts in some instances make contact with the hood, but its more often done when they are installed incorrectly. An alignment will help flush this out....

Have you visited the "taste of home" section of svtp? I don't know CA at all, but chances are there might be someone near you who can help out.

Yeah, we have yet to have it aligned. I'm inclined to go back to the shop who did the install and make them remedy it even though I haven't had the alignment yet, just to let them know they messed up! Not happy about the nick in the hood. I guess it's not that big a deal since it's on the underside...and I have touch up paint. I suppose I should be much more upset about it but I am tired of feeling upset over a...car. lol

Most of the CA folks in the regional section are from either the LA or Bay Area. Not much help to me since I'm way up North.

I second you learning on how to work on your car - then that way you know the job is done right and it will save lots of money. You can buy a starter toolset from sears with basic hand tools that will let you accomplish many things yourself for around $150-$200. Then look at the how to section and get the cobra manual installed on your computer for proper torque specs. We all started somewhere and now seems like a great time to learn! Please let me know if you have further questions and feel free to PM me. And if you do take your cobra to a shop again, run the quote past us on SVTP and we can let you know if you are getting taken.

I see this way too frequently, a shop taking advantage of someone - happens all the time and its just not bc you have a cobra or are male or female. I do 95% of all work myself, but if I do need to take my car into a shop, I have 2 trusted shops (one for my cobra and one for my daily driver) that i can trust that the work will get done correctly. This is a super sad thread, but it seems like you have learned alot and going forward this wont happen again to you!

What's the easiest thing to start with? Oil change or...? I'm willing to give it a try. I just kind of suspect I lack the talent for it, you know? I'm not a very mechanical person. But if you need a well written letter, I'm your gal.

I agree with FromGTtoSVT.

I installed my Maximum Motorsports CC plates and one of the steps is installing spacers at the top of the strut shaft (above and below spherical bushing of CC plates) and checking for clearance with the hood. That step is shown in Step 21 of these installation instructions http://www.maximummotorsports.com/assets/install/pdf/front_susp/MMCC0304.pdf

I am assuming you either have MM CC plates or similar ones which have similar spacers. If so, check the configuration of the spacers on both sides (how many are on top and bottom and the thicknesses of the spacers). If the side that is hitting the hood has the same spacer configuration as the side which is not hitting, I would recommend rearranging the spacers on both sides so you have at least 1/8" clearance between the top of the strut shaft and hood. The easiest way of doing that is by moving a spacer that is currently on top to the bottom to lower the strut shaft away from the hood.

In terms of one plate being closer to the fender than the other, that is likely just because you haven't had an alignment done yet. The plates are made to be able to move forward/backward and side to side during an alignment which alters the struts position. This allows the person aligning the car to be able to dial in caster and camber to the desired settings. So they likely just bolted them in any position because you have to tighten them to drive the car. But they are not in the correct positions because you haven't had an alignment done yet.

I hope this helps.

Actually, that helps a lot! Yes, they are MM CC Plates. And I didn't realize the plates would move in that way. It makes sense, though. That is probably what's going on then. I just wish they'd checked for clearance before closing my hood. The car feels great after the install, I must say. Thanks for an awesome explanation! Maybe I'll take a look tomorrow and try to figure it out for myself. Maybe. :-\

Actually, no, the town I live in has a population of 15,000 and the nearest city...Eureka...a mere 27,000. That's a far cry from Tuscon's half a mill. lol

Half the population is illegal immigrants so that doesn't count :lol1:[/QUOTE]

Yeah. I hear ya. I have family in Tucson (or should I say Little Mexico?) and have been there a couple times.

Anyway, I want to thank everyone who took the time to reply and help me out. Next time I will certainly run any estimates by SVTP before going forward, as per Weaselp1's advice. It's nice to know you guys are here to help.

Lastly, regarding the Race Springs; I LOVE THEM! I should have gone with them to begin with. Kicking myself for that. It was a costly mistake. The car is a bit higher but it feels like stock now and it doesn't bottom out at highway speeds.

OH! One last thing: the shop before this one, who installed the Sport Springs... Apparently they didn't tighten the rear sway bar end links all the way so the the shop who did the Race Springs said they had a bit of difficulty tightening it. EVERYWHERE I go. I swear! Maybe that accounted for some of the clunking or weird noises I heard coming from the rear the last couple months. Thank goodness I haven't driven the car more than 200 miles in four or five months!