Okay, guys, fess up: what is YOUR trick to installing a leak free 5.0 rear main seal?:shrug:
Rear Main Seal
- Thread starter bat-stang
- Start date
Curious too
Joe
Joe
Some folks say install it dry (outer part of seal) with oil on the inner seal. Others say thin film of silicone on the outer, being careful to smooooth the (oiled) seal carefully over the crank so as not to fold over one of the sealing edges. I just did mine, silicone style, smooth without folding and still leaked! Looking for the gurus.
Don't drive the car after installing it. Ever.
I use the silicon method and obvously make sure the edges dont roll when you put it on.
I used some silicone on the outside of it and didn't do anything to the inside of it and it's been leak free for 4-5k miles now. I was told to get a rear main from Napa.....can't remember the exact reason, but like I said it's been fine.
I put light coating of oil on the inside surface and tap it in easily, making sure it goes in straight. Once it's done, hit the exterior portion with some brake cleaner to remove any oil residue, then Black RTV where the seal and the main cap touch. Let the RTV set up good before installing backing plate or flywheel/flexplate.
Thanks for the tips people.
I like the felpro rearseals.. Light coat of oil on the inner lip that contacts the crankshaft, and only sealer(2b-permatex) where the main cap mates with the block.. just a tiny bit, dont over do it.. next, use a good used rearmain seal, like the one that came out- to drive the new seal in... Reason for this, is that it fits the new seal perfect, and it allows you to tap against the new seal with out hitting it with the hammer, and it allows you to seat the new seal all the way into the block, not just flush, like most other objects... Just my two cents, have had very good luck!!!!
I cut a 4" diameter pvc pipe to 4" long. This helped keep the seal flush while tapping it in. I used the Napa Teflon rear main seal with silicone on the exterior edge.
Thanks Guys. What I did was: After removing the old seal, I cleaned the crank sealing surface with a 3M pad saturated with brake clean (fine stuff) as well as the block surface. After inspection, I slapped some oil on the seal for the crank surface and a bit of silicone on the block surface. I carefully eased the seal over the crank evenly then pushed the seal into place till I had to use the old seal the tap it in in a 12:00-6:00 then 9:00-3:00. Once it got started I gently did the round the clock till it was seated. I only installed it flush. One reason was my HAYNES manual gave me some wierd reason not to go further. Second, when I got flush it wouldn't go any further and it made that sound like that's as far as it would go. (You know that sound- that solid thud when you know its ON) Kinda strange because I know that there is a bit more space back there. Things that make you go 'hmmmmm'. 50 Miles later and no leaky-leaky. The last time I was leaking big time before I got to work. I really appreciate your input. I searched high and low and even talked to several mechs and everyone has a slightly different method. I NOW have one that works. I don't think I cleaned my surfaces well enough last time.
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Day 2: Some leaky-leaky. Not as bad as the first time. I'll fix it later and never drive it again.
There ya go
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This raises the obvious question: If the replacement is going to leak anyway, why bother replacing a leaking rear main in the first place?
What brand and type of seal did you use?
Felpro rubber.
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The question I have next is perhaps that there is something else wrong.
There is. It's a four letter word. F O R D.
Don't be so mean, don't be so mean, lol.
Sorry. If there's one thing I've learned in twenty years of building Fox body's, it's that being a die hard Mustang guy doesn't make you a Ford guy.
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