Rear Gears - use to be my first Mod ..

[mixedup]

Why don't I see more posts on gear changes for the 13/14's

Yea, I 've searched and found the "dealer can't change the computer" ....

All you that are Mod'ing - AND voiding ...why engine power first versus gear change .... at 3.31 vs 3.73 - seems easy - low cost (if computer can be changed for speedo) .... ?????

Thanks in advance to all that post to help me understand and plan ....

 

[RaceRedSnake]

I am with you on changing the rear gear to a 3.73 instead of adding more power. The 3.73 gears would feel great.

 

[mustangmanjeff]

I think alot of people leave them alone because ford went down on the gears from the 2012 and prior year cars, this time being they were aiming for the car to hit 60 in 1st gear and go over 200mph, with 3.73's and already more then enough low end torque/ power and traction problems, the 3.73's dont help just make u have to shift 1st to 2nd right away while fighting for power and with 3.73's you prob wont see near 200mph.


That and alot of people are happy with the stock car being its 662hp stock when thats more then most people use to get to with mods. and if you are looking for power the car is only a pulley and intake/header exaust away from pretty much a 700rwhp car lol gears not really needed, the car needs tire/ traction and a pulley and maybe an automatic ford should of offered a 6 speed autmatic with paddle shifters. then it would run 10's bone stock instead of people fightning to get into the 11's.

so to sum it up the new shelbys dont really need gears, its not like my year gt or a 4 valve n/a cobra that woke up alot with gears. all they will do on a new car is make you fight traction and need driver mod.

 

[BlownAway03]

No way I'd put gears in this car. That's my personal opinion. I know some have but I'm sure they hit the drag strip more than I do. Gears are the last thing this car needs on the street. Traction has got to be horrible in this car with 3.73s or 4.10s. I'm a fan of the long gears. The engineers geared these cars differently for good reasons.

 

[svt93cobrablack]

The Bugatti veyron has a 2.47 final drive ratio, but is all wheel drive and has a 7 speed transmission. I have all of my tuning done by Donnie Walsh at Walsh motorsports, I just asked him this question on Thursday and he said for the street to leave the 3.31 ratio in it, a 3.73 would create huge tire spin on the street, but with slicks at the track it's the way to go. These cars tuned make huge power an torque so I am running 315 nitto nto5r for traction.

 

[mustangmanjeff]

No way I'd put gears in this car. That's my personal opinion. I know some have but I'm sure they hit the drag strip more than I do. Gears are the last thing this car needs on the street. Traction has got to be horrible in this car with 3.73s or 4.10s. I'm a fan of the long gears. The engineers geared these cars differently for good reasons.

:beer:

 

[Lethalchem]

Depends on what you want from your car. For me the 3.31's make the car feel sluggish and anti-climactic. If you're having problems with insomnia, go drive your car around in 6th gear…

 

[BlownAway03]

Depends on what you want from your car. For me the 3.31's make the car feel sluggish and anti-climactic. If you're having problems with insomnia, go drive your car around in 6th gear…

The thing is that's all false perception though. This car hits 0-60 well under 4 seconds in first, it's an 11 sec car in the 1/4, and can accelerate with just about any car on the road today. Obviously from those specs it has enough gear realistically. I grew to like the tall gearing when I bought my Z06. It definitely makes sense on this car. It'd be interesting to see a run between a Stock car and a gear only car.

 

[YELL03]

I think for daily driving the 3.73s would feel really snappy, more fun to drive, like my TVS swapped 2011 GT500 with 3.55s and a lower geared tranny, but....

For max acceleration on the street on street tires I still think the 3.31s will be faster for most people as the car has traction problems already.

I think the problem people have with the 3.31s is that for normal driving it is like starting my car in 2nd, it works, but is not as fun.

 

[USV8PWR]

Because changing them out is not a smart move IMO. Unless you are spending most of your time drag racing your car at the track. But on the street, the 3.73 are going to make the car pretty much useless and not fun from take off. And then they will ruin the top end acceleration when you nail the gas at 60 or 70 on a roll. No way will I be changing my gears. I have way to much fun on the highway to spoil it with some shorter gear.

 

[biminiLX]

Used to be....still should be :shrug:
Obviously this is a personal preference of what YOU want from YOUR car, but if your willing to run a drag radial or sticky wider tire, the car will perform better with a steeper rear gear.
The first thought I had after that the reduced power tried to kill me merging was that "f#ck this thing needs a drag radial and a gear".
I ran a Lund tune and 100% stock for a few months and then swapped to 315 NT05R drag radials and a 4.10 gear. You will feel it immediately, the car drives easier low speed, is more streetable around town and can actually use 6th on the highway. It is easier on your clutch, obviously works at the strip and the only downside is maybe loss of some top speed---but I don't know where you can go 200mph very often and I'll get to 190mph significantly faster than you :rockon:
Again, all a personal preference, but if you drive one with a gear, you might change your opinion. :burnout:
-J
:beer:

 

[biminiLX]

Because changing them out is not a smart move IMO. Unless you are spending most of your time drag racing your car at the track. But on the street, the 3.73 are going to make the car pretty much useless and not fun from take off. And then they will ruin the top end acceleration when you nail the gas at 60 or 70 on a roll. No way will I be changing my gears. I have way to much fun on the highway to spoil it with some shorter gear.

BTW, I turn 2000rpm at 80mph cruise :bored:
-J

 

[Lethalchem]

The thing is that's all false perception though. This car hits 0-60 well under 4 seconds in first, it's an 11 sec car in the 1/4, and can accelerate with just about any car on the road today. Obviously from those specs it has enough gear realistically. I grew to like the tall gearing when I bought my Z06. It definitely makes sense on this car. It'd be interesting to see a run between a Stock car and a gear only car.

Yes. No doubt the car is still fast, but the fun factor is a huge chunk of what I want from a car. I don't get any enjoyment from a number, I get enjoyment from what a number feels like. Gears will be the last thing I do, and I've done no power mods yet. Once I'm at 700+rwhp I'll decide where I want to go from there.

 

[Husky44]

Used to be....still should be :shrug:
Obviously this is a personal preference of what YOU want from YOUR car, but if your willing to run a drag radial or sticky wider tire, the car will perform better with a steeper rear gear.
The first thought I had after that the reduced power tried to kill me merging was that "f#ck this thing needs a drag radial and a gear".
I ran a Lund tune and 100% stock for a few months and then swapped to 315 NT05R drag radials and a 4.10 gear. You will feel it immediately, the car drives easier low speed, is more streetable around town and can actually use 6th on the highway. It is easier on your clutch, obviously works at the strip and the only downside is maybe loss of some top speed---but I don't know where you can go 200mph very often and I'll get to 190mph significantly faster than you :rockon:
Again, all a personal preference, but if you drive one with a gear, you might change your opinion. :burnout:
-J
:beer:

This.

First mod I did was 3.73s. Never been to the strip. Car is MUCH better behaved on the street, and the only reason you have traction issues is if your launch technique is limited to dumping the clutch and matting the pedal.

OP's question is valid. I saw no need to add horsepower, when I couldn't get the stock power to the ground effectively. In my experience, the 3.73s actually improve around town manners; you don't have to feather the clutch as much for a smooth, low-powered departure from a stoplight. I can almost leave a light at idle. I'm in NO way getting close to having to immediately shift from first-second. I very comfortably roll through my neighborhood at 15 mph with no bucking or surging, like you would with an overly-geared car.
Many folks complain about this car not being "raw" enough, like older Mustangs were. 3.73s wake it up, without making it feel like a track car. Still best mod for the bucks, IMHO.

 

[Husky44]

But on the street, the 3.73 are going to make the car pretty much useless and not fun from take off. And then they will ruin the top end acceleration when you nail the gas at 60 or 70 on a roll.

I would disagree, speaking from experience, and not conjecture. My car is anything but "useless", and is improved from take-off. And still easy enough to drive that my wife enjoys driving it. The only issue my car has with nailing it at 60 or 70 is (at least with the old GYs) I could break it loose if I simply matted the pedal, instead of just feeding the gas it could handle. It still gets to the limiter (mine's a vert) with no issues, and plenty of RPMs to spare.

With the new tires, not so much an issue.

This car should have come with 3.73s. 3.31s helped meet marketing's goal of 200+, and all of our goal of avoiding the gas guzzler tax.

 

[USV8PWR]

BTW, I turn 2000rpm at 80mph cruise :bored:
-J

That's not too bad man! 80 at 2000 would be better than 100 at 2000 for sixth. But what about the other gears? Where you at 70mph in 2nd? You'd probably have to be in 3rd gear at a low RPM. Anyway, I'd still love to roll run a 4.10 car (no other mods) at a 70 or so roll. You're gonna lose a lot more than 10MPH off the top end IMO and it will start to feel like your hitting a huge wall at probably 120 or so.

Tell your Brother to get his out of storage and let's get some comparisons on! :banana:

 

[72MachOne99GT]

I dont see hitting a wall anywhere near 120.

4th gear runs 160ish with the stock gearing...

Whoever has the calculator can find where a 4.10d car would finish 4th, and it would pull harder to that number than a stock car would to 160.

Does someone with 3.73s know where the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts take place at 7,000rpm?

 

[BAS]

I haven't been on here in a while since doing a load of mods, enjoying the car more than ever. But I felt compelled to share my experiences on 3.73s. I did the swap and would do it again.

For day to day driving, the car is more like a NA car in first gear. The S/C does not have time to spool up so the wheel spin/ feel is far more connected... right before it unloads in 2nd gear. To the point where I would say that I have fewer traction problems now than with 331s. The 373s definitely make stop start traffic bearable

1st: 7000 rpm line is at 58.5mph - I haven't experienced that myself as, with the 13-6 and lund tune, I don't think I have a red line limiter anymore and tend to "late" shift at 5500

2nd: 7000 rpm is at 85.4mph

If I want to take off at the lights and make it smooth for passengers, I usually drop into second from the dig. The S/C kicks in and there is still a mountain of torque to get me going

Highway driving in 6th is very comfortable. I don't lose pace up hill (like I did when I had the 3.31s). Mileage isn't really compromised and I would submit that it is actually better when cruising because I choose 6th.

3rd is as adaptable as before on mountain roads with a rage of 34mph to 120mph (2000 to 7000RPM)

In addition to this, I am running Pirelli P Zeros... The GY's suck on every level (unless you can maintain heat in them) and a tyre swap should be your first mod.

 

[NELCO]

I haven't been on here in a while since doing a load of mods, enjoying the car more than ever. But I felt compelled to share my experiences on 3.73s. I did the swap and would do it again.

For day to day driving, the car is more like a NA car in first gear. The S/C does not have time to spool up so the wheel spin/ feel is far more connected... right before it unloads in 2nd gear. To the point where I would say that I have fewer traction problems now than with 331s. The 373s definitely make stop start traffic bearable

1st: 7000 rpm line is at 58.5mph - I haven't experienced that myself as, with the 13-6 and lund tune, I don't think I have a red line limiter anymore and tend to "late" shift at 5500

2nd: 7000 rpm is at 85.4mph

If I want to take off at the lights and make it smooth for passengers, I usually drop into second from the dig. The S/C kicks in and there is still a mountain of torque to get me going

Highway driving in 6th is very comfortable. I don't lose pace up hill (like I did when I had the 3.31s). Mileage isn't really compromised and I would submit that it is actually better when cruising because I choose 6th.

3rd is as adaptable as before on mountain roads with a rage of 34mph to 120mph (2000 to 7000RPM)

In addition to this, I am running Pirelli P Zeros... The GY's suck on every level (unless you can maintain heat in them) and a tyre swap should be your first mod.

BAS, Why did you pick the Pirelli's over the pilot sports? What size tires did you put on.
Thanks, Nelco:beer::beer:

 

[BAS]

BAS, Why did you pick the Pirelli's over the pilot sports? What size tires did you put on.
Thanks, Nelco:beer::beer:

MPSS not sold in Australia at the time... Did my best to procure them. They are homologated to Porsche here, some grey imports, but still no joy. After the 13-6 upgrade I was lighting up continuously so needed delete the GY's fast. 295s on the back 275s on front... so still upsized :banana:

Front: 275/40ZR19
Rear: 295/35ZR20