Rear End Shot

[BRIMSTONE]

Hey guys,

I believe the rear end on my R is shot. Something is locking up everytime I make a slow turn, and I get a major clunking sound. The limited slip is just not working right, it sounds real bad.

I have been thinking about doing what JoeJ did for a while now, and also going with 3.73's or 4.10's, so I'm wondering if I should even bother spending money to have the shop take it apart and figure out what's wrong - or just replace the rear end altogether and take the original one apart later. What do you guys think? JoeJ you had emailed me a long time ago all the details of what you had done - but the computer I saved it on is toast so how about sharing the details on this board?

By the way, had the pleasure of winning President's Choice Award at the "Celebration of the American Pony Car" show last weekend. Pretty funny how the different dealership managers came out and took pictures next to MY CAR with the local newspaper. Free PR for them at my expense I guess...

Mike

 

[Andy M]

Mike,

if you are expecting to drop some money anyway.. I would suggest upgrading to a better diff with stronger half shafts. Joe Johnson did the Torsion T2R with upgraded half shafts and some 4.10 gears. He has tons of track miles with no problems on this setup. You may want to email him or PM for further details?

I have 3.73 gears in my R and I think they are a great compromise. A bit more grunt in 3rd gear at the track, but still has PLENTY of top end speed. I can get near 150 mph at redline in 4th. Joe is getting about the same speed but in 5th. Of course, one could argue that you really don't need to do 175+ anyway. The issue really is what type of driving you will be doing?? My suggestion is as follows:

1) some street but mostly track events - if track events are mostly done on shorter tracks (say less than 1.5 miles) then 4.10 gears would be great, because your top speed will be limited anyway. If longer tracks?, then I recommend 3.73 gears

2) street/drag strip - If you plan on doing alot of drag strip events, then 4.10 or even lower? but the lower you go, the less "street-able" the car becomes. AND, you would certainly need to think about changing out the IRS in favor of a live axle setup??? Kinda defeats the whole purpose the car was built for, doesn't it??

Let us know if you need more information on this?

 

[Garlin]

Mike the rearend might not be shot. About a month after I got mine it started clunking real bad on slow right turns. Not so bad on left turns but still there. I was ready to pull it apart and see what was up. When I drained the rearend I had less than a quart of dope in it. I completely drained the rearend and added 3 quarts of Motorcraft SAE 75W140 synthetic. Drove about three blocks and the clunking went away completely. It's been fine ever since. Just an idea you might want to check first. Real easy to drain and not to bad to refill.

Gary :shrug:

 

[kevin]

another thot (and this is buried in the hysterical files), loose bolts where the drive shaft is bolted to the rear. mine where loctited down but not bolted all the way in

 

[BRIMSTONE]

I will check both of those before looking into a new rear.

Do I also need to add a friction modifier with the synthetic?

Thanks for the ideas...

Mike

 

[kevin]

Originally posted by BRIMSTONE
I will check both of those before looking into a new rear.

Do I also need to add a friction modifier with the synthetic?

Thanks for the ideas...

Mike

highly reccomended and i do

 

[Andy M]

Originally posted by BRIMSTONE
I will check both of those before looking into a new rear.

Do I also need to add a friction modifier with the synthetic?

Thanks for the ideas...

Mike

Yep!! Definitely add the friction modifier!!! no matter which gear oil you use.