Rear End & Rear Supension Build

RazorGTP

Oilsands Baby!
Established Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
1,355
Location
Fort McMurray, Alberta
426AA3CE-66A7-4432-93B2-8935E94B0B9C.jpeg
770E13D1-8ADE-4F8A-AA91-3E2E36677107.jpeg
6B603F08-5FF0-4B8F-8539-67BC4359EC70.jpeg
F7F08824-5259-4784-BCB0-85D177C0ECAD.jpeg
8D755154-0AE9-49D4-91DD-BCC44C1428C8.jpeg
3FA9009C-954D-413E-9224-01C1F9C4497E.jpeg
0080BB96-98F8-4965-A2B6-E0926BC5D48B.jpeg
40BEE3FF-E190-4A26-9E49-339D9359F403.jpeg
138BAF1B-8D38-4EFC-8B96-CB1E31C5FFE1.jpeg
BED116E1-37B7-46AA-B752-420133B7A4E8.jpeg
Well I’ve seen a lot of questions about what people should do for better 60’s and what they should go with to beef up the drivetrain so I figured I would share what I’ve done. My power level, mods etc is in my sig.

Last season I snapped my axle on a well prepped track on 17” Hoosier slicks launching around 4200rpms. Since the season is short I didn’t want to wait 3 weeks for Strange 33 spline c clip eliminators so decided to go with Mosier 31 spline custom alloys. I figured I may aswell do more beefing up so ordered up an Eaton Truetrac, frpp 3.73 gears, 3” arp press in studs, new wheel bearings and seals. Then welded the axle tubes, painted everything and added a Griggs racing diff cover/girdle so I could keep my diff cooler. To get the stock lines to fit I had to grind apart the aluminum mount that holds both lines together.

My best 60’ was 1.6 with 17” Hoosiers, BMR LCAs, panhard and relocation brackets. This year I decided to tackle that soI added adj BMR UCA, Mount, diff bushing, xtreme antiroll bar, Viking warrior shocks and 15” brake relocation kit so I can run 15” beadlocks with MT 28x10.5 stiffwall slicks. All this should get my 60’s down in the 1.4’s I’m hoping.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top