Rear brake problems associated with E-brake.

[Pyro]

Lately, I've been hearing some rubbing sounds with my rear and figured it was just time for new brake pads. I found a guy who works at Big-O who used to work exclusively with Mustangs back in Jersey. What he told me was suprising...He said that my front brake pads are fine but my rears were down to the metal. I found this odd since it's the front brakes that usually go out first but he went on to tell me that if I use my E-brake/parking brake and step on the regular brake when I disengage the E-brake, sometimes the E-brake will stay engaged. When I heard this, I remembered smelling a burning smell one night not so long ago but figured it was someone else's clutch. It would be nice if the dealership mentioned this little detail.

Has anyone ever heard of this or ran across this problem in the past? This is my 3rd Cobra but this is the first time I've heard of this and definitely the first time I've experienced it. This explains why my car feels sluggish sometimes... like the brakes are on. Also, the guy sounds legit and knew many of the names of Mustang shops in the East Coast AND was very cool so I believe him.

 

[03DOHC]

I have not had my rear rotors off so I will assume it's similar to the previous models. If so, the e-brake is inside the rear rotor and is actuated by the e-brake handle only via a cable. It's more likely that you have a sticking caliper slide.

 

[Pyro]

In any case, he said that I can avoid this by not depressing the brake while I disengage the E-brake...just leave it in gear for safety reasons. It makes sense because if you disengage the E-brake while the foot brake is on, it just promotes caliper stick by not allowing the caliper to let off via the handle.

 

[Dana]

I don't know about earlier models, but on the 03, the emergency brakes cables actuate a cam in the caliper forcing the piston out as though the brakes were being applied. It does not have the shoes inside the rotor.
I don't know about the story the tech told you, but anything is possible.
I would check all the standard stuff first.
If both rear wheels were severely worn then it is probably something more than a sticking caliper slide.

Dana

 

[Pyro]

I only checked the left rear but I'll check both when I take it in today for new rears. The tech said that he's seen it before on an older Mustang. Regardless, I need to replace both rears so they will be evenly worn. Now, I'll keep an eye (or nose) out for any off smells.

 

[NyteByte]

The two older Mustang's that I've owned had a "hat" design for the rear rotor. The e-brake actually controlled drum brake style shoes.

On this Cobra, I think the cables push the main caliper like Dana said. It's just like my girlfriends Acura.

Maybe your e-brake cable got stuck. I had this happen on my old '77 Celica. After about 10 miles, my rear drums were red hot and turning into liquid

 

[Pyro]

I'll have the tech take a look at all the possibilities. I'm not even thinking of bringing this to the dealer. Knowing Ford dealerships, I'd probably have to leave it overnight and some punk kid would take it for a joy...I mean test drive for 50 or so miles then leave it unlocked on the lot and end up getting stolen or damaged by some numb nut parking cars. All this AND get my warranty voided due to having 315's in the rear. Pretty pathetic that we have to worry about dealership abuse. I'd rather pay a few bucks for the security and timeliness of an outside shop. At least this way, I can watch while they replace the pads and inspect.

 

[Pyro]

Well, I found out that it's a problem with my brake fluid....forgot to change them at the 1 year mark and now they are affecting the E-brake release. I am having the rear brake pads replaced and the fluid changed before they cause more serious problems. The fluid is dark which means they will not perform as necessary. I'm having it done tomorrow so I'll let everyone know how it went.

 

[loose nut]

worn brake fluid is causing the rear pads to wear out prematurely???? not likely. :nono:

 

[Pyro]

Whether or not the fluid is causing the problem, the fact remains that the rear pads and fluids need changing. Is that the cause of the rear brakes sticking? Dont know for sure. We shall see.

 

[Dana]

I don't think so...

Unless some knucklehead put something besides the correct brake fluid in the master cyclinder and contaminated the system.
And if that is the case, the entire system will be affected, not just the rears.

I suggest you continue looking for the cause.

Possibly driving several hundred miles with the E-Brake applied?

Dana

 

[hmwave]

Here's another possibility.

My rear pads were 2mm remaining at 12,200 miles.
The dealer told me the Trac applies the rear brakes to stop yaw (and especially when the wheels are hopping) and that's why the early wear happened.
My car was at 12,200mls and 12mnths and 4days. As pads are a wear item the replace warranty was 12,000mls and 12mnths.
They refused the warranty coverage and wanted nearly $400 to change out the rear pads!

I bought a set of Street Hawks and fitted them myself (make sure you get a piston rotation tool to do this).

 

[Pyro]

I had my favorite shop change the rear pads and change the brake fluid for under $300. You should have seen the smile on the tech's face who testdrove the car. He handed me the keys saying "you drive that thing everyday?". I had no worries since everyone in the shop was VERY PROFESSIONAL and always tells me what they are doing. They even asked me permission to check the front pads also which was free of charge.

Thanks for the info.

 

[venams03]

OK, I need to chime in here.

I had the same problem. 1800 miles and driver side rear wheel squealing like crazy at all times. Thought is was the TOB until I had my wife drive the car and verified it's coming from the rear wheel. Noise stops when car is not in motion and is relative to speed.

Anyway called the local dealer and they are already aware of this issue. I asked for the cause but didn't get a definitive answer. Just take it in is what I was told.

Ask me, it's the caliper hanging up. The service manager told me that the noise is from the brake pad rubbing (lightly) against the rotor. He said that Ford could install a different (quieter brake pad) but the car wouldn't stop as well!!! What?

My car sounds like crap going down the neighborhood road. All you hear is EEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!! Everybody just stops and looks, puzzlingly!

 

[loose nut]

Originally posted by venams03
OK, I need to chime in here.

The service manager told me that the noise is from the brake pad rubbing (lightly) against the rotor. He said that Ford could install a different (quieter brake pad)

Run like hell from that dearship...find someone that has at least passed HS autoshop. Do people go to school to become that stupid?
How would changing to quieter pads fix the rubbing problem? ...never mind, you already figured that one out too.

I would ask him if his new pads are approved by SVT ...and does Ford accept the liability for your safety with this mod. Better yet, tell him you'll call them yourself...watch him squirm.

:bash:

 

[caveman6666]

Probably too obvious, but are you sure the E-brake is fully releasing? I noticed if I don't push mine down hard, the boot causes the handle to stay slightly raised.

 

[Will's97]

When I do some open track events, some instructors rent the 6 cylinder Mustangs. They change out 3 sets or rears to one set of fronts. I think around 99 Ford changed the valve to put more braking to the rear. My 97 is not that way. Could be why the 03's have a differant compound in the rear then the 01's