Rdrcr’s 2013 Mustang GT Upgrades and Reviews Thread.
- Thread starter Rdrcr
- Start date
Maybe it is a school project, maybe he thinks he is mickey splain... i dunno...
I’m probably the only person that currently owns both a Ford and Toyota yet, cheers for Chevrolet to win on Sundays. Yes, it is odd.
The focus of this thread is to illustrate the path that I take to the upgrade, improve, and modify my new 2013 Mustang GT. I’ll include pictures and reviews of each modification I perform so that the information I share may benefit the community and perhaps help others in their quest to customize, or personalize their own Mustangs.<o></o
So good luck with that... you are a puppy in a shark tank.
Last edited:
No more mods?
“The sound quality, tone, and volume of the stock Mustang exhaust system does not do any justice to the fantastic 5.0 engine, the GT’s awesome performance, or the Mustang heritage. This should come as no surprise since pretty much every modern Mustang has a factory exhaust system that is understated and far too quiet for any true enthusiast, which is a shame because every V8 Mustang has the potential to be one of the best sounding cars on the road. Thank God for the aftermarket! LOL!”
I know what you’re thinking… You’re right! I have nothing to hide. I am quoting myself. And, unlike most Politicians, my opinion hasn’t changed.
Simply put, Mustangs need an aftermarket exhaust system to meet the expectations of any car true hard-core car enthusiast.
Luckily, there is no shortage of aftermarket exhaust options for the new 5.0 Mustang. There are literally a plethora of companies fighting for your money and your loyalty. In the aftermarket Mustang exhaust world, there are of course the usual suspects; Borla, Flowmaster, Magnaflow, Ford’s own Shelby GT500, Roush, Pypes, BBK, Corsa, and Bassani. Just to name a few. Then, there are the more obscure exhaust manufactures like RTR, MBRP, Stainless Works, SLP, and Kooks.
But with so many options and possibilities, how do you decide on a system and where do you start?
For me, it came down to one simple question, “What am I looking for in an exhaust system?”
I came to the conclusion that my answer and my goal, was to find a high quality cat-back exhaust system that produced a rare, unique, and aggressive sound that compliments the mighty Coyote 5.0 engine. My reasoning was because, truthfully, I didn’t want my Mustang to sound the same as all the other 5.0’s in my neighborhood.
I did of course harbor other considerations... Any system I purchase must be constructed of high quality components, reduce weight, and offer more performance.
Since my main decision making factor revolved around obtaining a ‘unique’ sound, I quickly dismissed all the standard exhaust offerings by major manufactures. I focused my search on the smaller companies figuring that the non-mainstream manufactures should have less folks running their systems.
I’ll admit that listening to exhaust systems on YouTube isn’t the best way to find the ‘right’ sounding exhaust but, I really didn’t have any other alternative. Having listened to as many video and sound clips as possible, my eyes and ears fixated on the Stainless Works 5.0 exhaust. However, I wasn’t done. I continued my research and found-out more information on the SW exhaust. The more I learned, the more I was impressed and I eventually sold myself on the Stainless Works Retro Catback exhaust system.
Did I make the right decision?
The SW exhaust arrived smartly packaged in one large box. I opened the box and found plenty of high quality stainless steel, as expected. However, I surprised by the number of components. The exhaust system is like an old erector set. Seriously, there was a butt-load of parts, pipes, clamps, and hangers! Did they design this exhaust system by the foot? I hope it came with instructions! It did.
I was warned early on by my research regarding the installation and the need for a drive-on lift. Team Beefcake Racing, whom I purchased this exhaust from, also stressed their recommendation for a drive-on lift. I didn’t want to take any chances, so I had my dyno shop, Bottle Blown Racing, equipped with a drive-on lift, help to install the SW exhaust on my Mustang. The SW exhaust is a bolt-on setup, so I expected the installation costs to be affordable. Which, it was.
The installation started off slowly because we had an issue with one of the over-axle pipes being out-of-round. Luckily, the dyno shop had a special exhaust pipe fitting tool that functioned to hammer the pipe into a sufficiently round diameter. Had I done the installation myself, I would not have had this tool. If anyone is interested in this exhaust, I would suggest that you test-fit all your parts on the ground to make sure they fit together before attempting the installation.
Moving forward… Even with the drive-on lift, it took us about fifteen minutes for us to properly adjust the pipes so they would not hit, or contact any part of the Mustang when driving and going over bumps. Furthermore, the lift drastically helped aid the adjustment process because it gave us some extra leverage while pushing, pulling, and positioning the pipes and hangers.
(The more adventurous folks can in fact, perform the SW exhaust installation on jack stands, with a friend but, you’ll want to set the tires down on blocks to load the suspension during the installation. If you don’t load the suspension, there is a significant chance that the over-axle exhaust pipes will contact either the differential, or the body, once the car has been lowered down. With the suspension unloaded, you have no way of measuring the distance between components when the car is in the air.)
With the job complete, there are a few things I didn’t like about the fitment…
Standing directly behind the car and looking at the rear bumper fascia, you could actually see the rear muffler tail-pipe hangers. In addition, no matter how hard we tried to adjust the pipes, clamps, and hangers we could not get the left and right tail-pipe positions to match. The left tail-pipe was always positioned low, sagging, and actually aiming ever so slightly towards the ground. Moreover, and this isn’t just a problem with the SW exhaust (I’ve seen this with many of the aftermarket exhaust manufactures)… but the tailpipes stick out WAY WAY WAY too far relative to the rear bumper fascia. Honestly, it looked ridiculous.
Call me crazy but, I demand an OEM type fit and appearance for any modification I’m adding to my car. Things need to look right and I couldn’t allow my Mustang to look like this for long…
I took my car over to American Muffler, a local custom exhaust shop in my area and had them modify my SW exhaust where they cut, shortened, and welded the over-axle pipes, mufflers, and exhaust tips. In addition, I had them discard the large, ugly, and unsightly SW rear hangers. They then fabricated new invisible custom hangers for my exhaust system.
Thankfully, the results of their innovative work brought a smile to my face. Finally, these simple modifications fixed the uneven pipes, the ‘look-at-me’ rear muffler hangers, and the comical exhaust tip length. The effort was surely worth the additional expense.
The time has come for me to share my thoughts about the sound and performance of the SW exhaust.
The sound, well, that’s simple, the SW exhaust sounds great! The sound is wholeheartedly very unique which is what I was after all along. To this day, I haven’t heard another Mustang in my area like it! No doubt, the SW exhaust is loud, but, not overly loud and it has a fantastic tone. The sound is deep and aggressive. The SW exhaust is fairly quiet (after the cold start sequence) at idle but, gets louder as the rpms increase. Just the way you want it! Perfect!
I must add that the SW mufflers are designed differently and unlike other mufflers I’ve seen. They have hundreds of little bumps protruding from the interior of the muffler cavity and when the exhaust gases pass through the muffler it drastically changes the tone making the car sound, well, ‘retro’. Due to the muffler design, at idle, the car produces some interesting and very unique sounds. At times I can describe the exhaust tone as if the pipes were underwater, producing a sound like bubbles coming out from water. Perhaps it can be best described as a ‘gurgling’ sound. It is bizarre, very different, but cool sounding.
I know some folks are interested to know if the SW exhaust has a drone. I read from some owners who say yes, and others that say no. My conclusion is that there is a drone from 2,000-2,500 RPM’s. I notice it most when I’m in 6th gear and when a load on the engine is present. It isn’t too bad and you can easily defeat the drone by dropping a gear. Not a big deal.
The overall quality of the exhaust components is very good and the stainless piping looks great. However, as mentioned earlier, there are a lot of parts and that was something I didn’t originally expect. Regardless of the amount of components, this exhaust system saved a significant amount of weight compared to the OEM setup. But, I must apologize. In my excitement, I didn’t weigh everything. It would have taken too much time. LOL!
You have to give credit where credit is due. Despite sounding like a Toyota Prius, the OEM Mustang GT exhaust is very efficient and makes power. Surprising to some, not surprising to others, the SW exhaust didn’t produce any additional power during my back-to-back dyno testing. But, there were some interesting findings. The car was running much richer with the SW exhaust. Since we did a back to back, OEM vs. SW, there may be some ‘learn’ time necessary for the factory electronics. Hypothetically, if the computer can adjust and lean the fuel mixture, the SW exhaust will pick up a little additional power.
Before.
After.
Air/Fuel comparison.
In conclusion, overall, I’m happy with the SW exhaust. The fitment and appearance issues were cured with a little motivation. But, most importantly, the Stainless Works Retro cat-back exhaust system made my Mustang sound unique and unlike any other Mustang I’ve seen, or heard on the road and that my friends, was worth the time and investment.
Mike
I know what you’re thinking… You’re right! I have nothing to hide. I am quoting myself. And, unlike most Politicians, my opinion hasn’t changed.
Simply put, Mustangs need an aftermarket exhaust system to meet the expectations of any car true hard-core car enthusiast.
Luckily, there is no shortage of aftermarket exhaust options for the new 5.0 Mustang. There are literally a plethora of companies fighting for your money and your loyalty. In the aftermarket Mustang exhaust world, there are of course the usual suspects; Borla, Flowmaster, Magnaflow, Ford’s own Shelby GT500, Roush, Pypes, BBK, Corsa, and Bassani. Just to name a few. Then, there are the more obscure exhaust manufactures like RTR, MBRP, Stainless Works, SLP, and Kooks.
But with so many options and possibilities, how do you decide on a system and where do you start?
For me, it came down to one simple question, “What am I looking for in an exhaust system?”
I came to the conclusion that my answer and my goal, was to find a high quality cat-back exhaust system that produced a rare, unique, and aggressive sound that compliments the mighty Coyote 5.0 engine. My reasoning was because, truthfully, I didn’t want my Mustang to sound the same as all the other 5.0’s in my neighborhood.
I did of course harbor other considerations... Any system I purchase must be constructed of high quality components, reduce weight, and offer more performance.
Since my main decision making factor revolved around obtaining a ‘unique’ sound, I quickly dismissed all the standard exhaust offerings by major manufactures. I focused my search on the smaller companies figuring that the non-mainstream manufactures should have less folks running their systems.
I’ll admit that listening to exhaust systems on YouTube isn’t the best way to find the ‘right’ sounding exhaust but, I really didn’t have any other alternative. Having listened to as many video and sound clips as possible, my eyes and ears fixated on the Stainless Works 5.0 exhaust. However, I wasn’t done. I continued my research and found-out more information on the SW exhaust. The more I learned, the more I was impressed and I eventually sold myself on the Stainless Works Retro Catback exhaust system.
Did I make the right decision?
The SW exhaust arrived smartly packaged in one large box. I opened the box and found plenty of high quality stainless steel, as expected. However, I surprised by the number of components. The exhaust system is like an old erector set. Seriously, there was a butt-load of parts, pipes, clamps, and hangers! Did they design this exhaust system by the foot? I hope it came with instructions! It did.
I was warned early on by my research regarding the installation and the need for a drive-on lift. Team Beefcake Racing, whom I purchased this exhaust from, also stressed their recommendation for a drive-on lift. I didn’t want to take any chances, so I had my dyno shop, Bottle Blown Racing, equipped with a drive-on lift, help to install the SW exhaust on my Mustang. The SW exhaust is a bolt-on setup, so I expected the installation costs to be affordable. Which, it was.
The installation started off slowly because we had an issue with one of the over-axle pipes being out-of-round. Luckily, the dyno shop had a special exhaust pipe fitting tool that functioned to hammer the pipe into a sufficiently round diameter. Had I done the installation myself, I would not have had this tool. If anyone is interested in this exhaust, I would suggest that you test-fit all your parts on the ground to make sure they fit together before attempting the installation.
Moving forward… Even with the drive-on lift, it took us about fifteen minutes for us to properly adjust the pipes so they would not hit, or contact any part of the Mustang when driving and going over bumps. Furthermore, the lift drastically helped aid the adjustment process because it gave us some extra leverage while pushing, pulling, and positioning the pipes and hangers.
(The more adventurous folks can in fact, perform the SW exhaust installation on jack stands, with a friend but, you’ll want to set the tires down on blocks to load the suspension during the installation. If you don’t load the suspension, there is a significant chance that the over-axle exhaust pipes will contact either the differential, or the body, once the car has been lowered down. With the suspension unloaded, you have no way of measuring the distance between components when the car is in the air.)
With the job complete, there are a few things I didn’t like about the fitment…
Standing directly behind the car and looking at the rear bumper fascia, you could actually see the rear muffler tail-pipe hangers. In addition, no matter how hard we tried to adjust the pipes, clamps, and hangers we could not get the left and right tail-pipe positions to match. The left tail-pipe was always positioned low, sagging, and actually aiming ever so slightly towards the ground. Moreover, and this isn’t just a problem with the SW exhaust (I’ve seen this with many of the aftermarket exhaust manufactures)… but the tailpipes stick out WAY WAY WAY too far relative to the rear bumper fascia. Honestly, it looked ridiculous.
Call me crazy but, I demand an OEM type fit and appearance for any modification I’m adding to my car. Things need to look right and I couldn’t allow my Mustang to look like this for long…
I took my car over to American Muffler, a local custom exhaust shop in my area and had them modify my SW exhaust where they cut, shortened, and welded the over-axle pipes, mufflers, and exhaust tips. In addition, I had them discard the large, ugly, and unsightly SW rear hangers. They then fabricated new invisible custom hangers for my exhaust system.
Thankfully, the results of their innovative work brought a smile to my face. Finally, these simple modifications fixed the uneven pipes, the ‘look-at-me’ rear muffler hangers, and the comical exhaust tip length. The effort was surely worth the additional expense.
The time has come for me to share my thoughts about the sound and performance of the SW exhaust.
The sound, well, that’s simple, the SW exhaust sounds great! The sound is wholeheartedly very unique which is what I was after all along. To this day, I haven’t heard another Mustang in my area like it! No doubt, the SW exhaust is loud, but, not overly loud and it has a fantastic tone. The sound is deep and aggressive. The SW exhaust is fairly quiet (after the cold start sequence) at idle but, gets louder as the rpms increase. Just the way you want it! Perfect!
I must add that the SW mufflers are designed differently and unlike other mufflers I’ve seen. They have hundreds of little bumps protruding from the interior of the muffler cavity and when the exhaust gases pass through the muffler it drastically changes the tone making the car sound, well, ‘retro’. Due to the muffler design, at idle, the car produces some interesting and very unique sounds. At times I can describe the exhaust tone as if the pipes were underwater, producing a sound like bubbles coming out from water. Perhaps it can be best described as a ‘gurgling’ sound. It is bizarre, very different, but cool sounding.
I know some folks are interested to know if the SW exhaust has a drone. I read from some owners who say yes, and others that say no. My conclusion is that there is a drone from 2,000-2,500 RPM’s. I notice it most when I’m in 6th gear and when a load on the engine is present. It isn’t too bad and you can easily defeat the drone by dropping a gear. Not a big deal.
The overall quality of the exhaust components is very good and the stainless piping looks great. However, as mentioned earlier, there are a lot of parts and that was something I didn’t originally expect. Regardless of the amount of components, this exhaust system saved a significant amount of weight compared to the OEM setup. But, I must apologize. In my excitement, I didn’t weigh everything. It would have taken too much time. LOL!
You have to give credit where credit is due. Despite sounding like a Toyota Prius, the OEM Mustang GT exhaust is very efficient and makes power. Surprising to some, not surprising to others, the SW exhaust didn’t produce any additional power during my back-to-back dyno testing. But, there were some interesting findings. The car was running much richer with the SW exhaust. Since we did a back to back, OEM vs. SW, there may be some ‘learn’ time necessary for the factory electronics. Hypothetically, if the computer can adjust and lean the fuel mixture, the SW exhaust will pick up a little additional power.
Before.
After.
Air/Fuel comparison.
In conclusion, overall, I’m happy with the SW exhaust. The fitment and appearance issues were cured with a little motivation. But, most importantly, the Stainless Works Retro cat-back exhaust system made my Mustang sound unique and unlike any other Mustang I’ve seen, or heard on the road and that my friends, was worth the time and investment.
Mike
Sure about that? LOL!
I've been modding, however, I haven't had the time to write any reviews.
Mike
lol come on man, Im not normally a grammar/spelling nazi, but how do you miss something so easy? especially as in depth as youre getting lol
Last edited:
Sorry professor.
Thanks. I'm working on it... I need to get a GoPro.
Mike
I have the feeling that AFR graph is useless....because installing an axleback is not going to physically change the AFR on the car...
What gear did they dyno your car in? 4th? Because those numbers are extremely low.
What gear did they dyno your car in? 4th? Because those numbers are extremely low.
If possible can you get a sound clip of inside the car while crusing? I'm very curious on what it sounds like.
Thanks!
Thanks!
^^^^
Will do.
These results were recorded on a SuperFlow chassis dynamometer in 4th gear.
Don't know why the AFR's changed? They did. The only modification performed was the installation of the catback exhaust.
Mike
Will do.
These results were recorded on a SuperFlow chassis dynamometer in 4th gear.
Don't know why the AFR's changed? They did. The only modification performed was the installation of the catback exhaust.
Mike
Got back and get a dyno pull in 5th gear, because that is the 1:1 gear in the MT82. Should shee better numbers, around the 375-380 range.
Airaid CAI Review.
To answer your question. Yes. I have done my research. With the factory tune, aftermarket Cold-Air-Intakes DO NOT increase power on the new 5.0. The stock Cold-Air-Intake is best for performance. Period.
Then why did I purchase an aftermarket CAI?
I was getting ready to finally upgrade the tune on my Mustang and I figured I might as well purchase and install an aftermarket CAI. I’ve heard that with a tune, it is possible to gain some additional power with a CAI. I asked my tuner which CAI he preferred and the response was the Airaid CAI. To be honest, I’ve not been a fan of Airaid.
I was forced to sell their product years ago and I wasn’t impressed.
But, that was years ago and I trust my tuner. So, I purchased the Airaid.
Seriously though...What a lame name.
What I do and like about the Airaid (#450-264) CAI when compared to the competition is that it is versatile. The intake comes with a modular venture tube which is basically a removable MAF insert that allows you to reliably run the car with the CAI on the factory tune. The insert can be easily removed, therefore enlarging the inlet tube and increasing the airflow when a tune is present.
This feature was important because I much prefer to test each performance part I install on my Mustang independently to verify gains, or losses. Without this feature, it would have been impossible.
That’s the way I like to do it, perhaps I’m strange, perhaps not. I don’t know.
The Airaid CAI intake comes with all the parts necessary for the installation. The CAI has an OEM feel and appearance with the exception of the huge exposed K&N-like air filter. Each plastic part of this CAI is molded surprisingly well. On the outside the seams are hardly noticeable and the interior of the tubes and other components are glossy and smooth. There is nothing special about the hardware but I was happy that it was all there and nothing was missing.
The installation was easy, straight forward, and took only a half-hour. I must say, the Airaid CAI looks good under the hood and commands much more attention than the stock box.
Take a look.
Airaid claims their CAI improves fuel efficiency, provides excellent filtration, and adds up to 11whp/11wtq. LOL!
As previously stated, without a convenient local drag-strip, I like to dyno test the parts I install on my Mustang to verify gains, or losses. The Airaid CAI was no different. I simply don’t care if it makes power or doesn’t. I didn’t manufacture it. I don’t work for Airaid. And, I don’t sell their products. I have no bias here. Heck, I already posted in my review of the Stainless Works Retro Exhaust that I actually lost power. In comparison, the stock OEM exhaust performs better.
However, at the same time I was eager to test this product just because I wanted to disprove the manufactures claims. I’ve done it before and I’ll do it again.
How could they claim gains up to an 11whp/11wtq if they didn’t exist? Right.
For the baseline my Mustang GT put down 353whp/332wtq STP on the stock tune and Stainless Works Retro Catback Exhaust in 4th gear.
With the Airaid CAI with MAF insert now installed, she put down 361whp/337wtq STP in 4th gear.
The Airaid CAI increased power throughout the RPM range from 3,700 RPM to Redline and made a surprising 8whp/5wtq peak gain!
Sadly, I didn’t realize we had made the first runs in 4th gear until it was too late and the new CAI was already installed. We were supposed to make the runs in 5th, the proper 1:1 ratio (my future comparisons will all be done in 5th gear).
Had we been able to do back-to-back 5th gear pulls, I believe the gains would have been greater and closer to the manufacture's claims. But, there is nothing wrong with an 8whp/5wtq peak gain nonetheless.
My driving impressions will not surprise you. I can't feel any difference in power. However, my Mustang drives great and there has been virtually no difference in drivability with the exception that the part-throttle response has been improved. Plus, I do love the sound.
The intake has really amplified the howl and growl of my mighty 5.0 engine. I enthusiastically approve of the change!
Final question. Was it worth the money? That’s definitely debatable. Sure, it is true that I can’t feel the gains but,
I like knowing that it is there and I appreciate the improvement in the part-throttle response.
I've experienced no change in MPG. However, I do like the looks and sound of the CAI.
In my option, the Airaid CAI is worth the money and I look forward to how it will perform with a tune!
Mike
To answer your question. Yes. I have done my research. With the factory tune, aftermarket Cold-Air-Intakes DO NOT increase power on the new 5.0. The stock Cold-Air-Intake is best for performance. Period.
Then why did I purchase an aftermarket CAI?
I was getting ready to finally upgrade the tune on my Mustang and I figured I might as well purchase and install an aftermarket CAI. I’ve heard that with a tune, it is possible to gain some additional power with a CAI. I asked my tuner which CAI he preferred and the response was the Airaid CAI. To be honest, I’ve not been a fan of Airaid.
I was forced to sell their product years ago and I wasn’t impressed.
But, that was years ago and I trust my tuner. So, I purchased the Airaid.
Seriously though...What a lame name.
What I do and like about the Airaid (#450-264) CAI when compared to the competition is that it is versatile. The intake comes with a modular venture tube which is basically a removable MAF insert that allows you to reliably run the car with the CAI on the factory tune. The insert can be easily removed, therefore enlarging the inlet tube and increasing the airflow when a tune is present.
This feature was important because I much prefer to test each performance part I install on my Mustang independently to verify gains, or losses. Without this feature, it would have been impossible.
That’s the way I like to do it, perhaps I’m strange, perhaps not. I don’t know.
The Airaid CAI intake comes with all the parts necessary for the installation. The CAI has an OEM feel and appearance with the exception of the huge exposed K&N-like air filter. Each plastic part of this CAI is molded surprisingly well. On the outside the seams are hardly noticeable and the interior of the tubes and other components are glossy and smooth. There is nothing special about the hardware but I was happy that it was all there and nothing was missing.
The installation was easy, straight forward, and took only a half-hour. I must say, the Airaid CAI looks good under the hood and commands much more attention than the stock box.
Take a look.
Airaid claims their CAI improves fuel efficiency, provides excellent filtration, and adds up to 11whp/11wtq. LOL!
As previously stated, without a convenient local drag-strip, I like to dyno test the parts I install on my Mustang to verify gains, or losses. The Airaid CAI was no different. I simply don’t care if it makes power or doesn’t. I didn’t manufacture it. I don’t work for Airaid. And, I don’t sell their products. I have no bias here. Heck, I already posted in my review of the Stainless Works Retro Exhaust that I actually lost power. In comparison, the stock OEM exhaust performs better.
However, at the same time I was eager to test this product just because I wanted to disprove the manufactures claims. I’ve done it before and I’ll do it again.
How could they claim gains up to an 11whp/11wtq if they didn’t exist? Right.
For the baseline my Mustang GT put down 353whp/332wtq STP on the stock tune and Stainless Works Retro Catback Exhaust in 4th gear.
With the Airaid CAI with MAF insert now installed, she put down 361whp/337wtq STP in 4th gear.
The Airaid CAI increased power throughout the RPM range from 3,700 RPM to Redline and made a surprising 8whp/5wtq peak gain!
Sadly, I didn’t realize we had made the first runs in 4th gear until it was too late and the new CAI was already installed. We were supposed to make the runs in 5th, the proper 1:1 ratio (my future comparisons will all be done in 5th gear).
Had we been able to do back-to-back 5th gear pulls, I believe the gains would have been greater and closer to the manufacture's claims. But, there is nothing wrong with an 8whp/5wtq peak gain nonetheless.
My driving impressions will not surprise you. I can't feel any difference in power. However, my Mustang drives great and there has been virtually no difference in drivability with the exception that the part-throttle response has been improved. Plus, I do love the sound.
The intake has really amplified the howl and growl of my mighty 5.0 engine. I enthusiastically approve of the change!
Final question. Was it worth the money? That’s definitely debatable. Sure, it is true that I can’t feel the gains but,
I like knowing that it is there and I appreciate the improvement in the part-throttle response.
I've experienced no change in MPG. However, I do like the looks and sound of the CAI.
In my option, the Airaid CAI is worth the money and I look forward to how it will perform with a tune!
Mike
Great attention to detail man! Why are you dynoing in 4th?
Thanks.
My dyno operator made the 4th gears runs from habit. I didn't want to remove the CAI just to make a comparison in 5th. But, I have the 5th gear numbers and I'll post them in my AED review.
Mike
I appreciate the solid and well written reviews. That is actually pretty nice that an Airaid CAI will get some little gains on a stock tune. I was thinking that I would hold off on this mod until I decide to get a proper tune but I have a year left on my factory warranty.
Thumbs up from a fellow red candy owner!
Thumbs up from a fellow red candy owner!
Appearance.
Honestly, completely stock and factory equipped my Mustang GT looks great. But, I have a hard time calling my Mustang ‘mine’ when it looks like every other Mustang GT on the road. If you’re like me, then you want to customize your Mustang to make it your own. To make it different and to make it stand alone. You want to make your Mustang, well, yours! Luckily with help from the aftermarket and Ford Racing that desire to be different has truly become a reality.
The Boss 302S Grille.
The factory GT grille looks great and it is a significant improvement over the base model. I think most people, including many of my outspoken car-enthusiast friends prefer the GT grille for its large round fog lights that deliver the old-school retro look from the 60’s. It’s hard to argue, the stock GT grille belongs on this car!
Yet, no matter how cool the stock GT grille might be, I know I’ll never use those classic omnipresent fog lamps. If there was a factory option to delete the fog lamps, I would have requested it. Since that option did not exist and since I wanted to change the appearance of my Mustang anyway, I thought the grille was a good place to start.
I’ve always liked the grille on the new Boss Mustang. It doesn’t have fog lamps. But, what’s with the fog lamp delete inserts? I don’t like those. Not only do they look plain and out of place, they also block air flow. I know that the inserts can be removed, but the insert openings look unfinished and ugly without them.
So, I was relieved when I found the Ford Racing Boss 302S grille. The S grille had a similar look of the Boss grille but, it doesn’t have the plain nasty looking fog lamp delete inserts. Instead it sports two smartly sized and perfectly finished holes with metal mesh grille inserts. Air flow will not be a problem with this grille! Moreover, unlike some other aftermarket options there is no need to purchase an upper and lower grille, the Boss 302S grille matches the factory lower grille. Sweet!
My fingers hurt!
There is nothing particularly difficult about the installation of the Boss 302S grille. However, as you would suspect, the front bumper fascia needs to be removed to gain access to the grille, fog lamps and fog lamp brackets.
I shan’t bore you with the details regarding the installation. You can research it yourself.
However, it is worth mentioning that in order to remove the OEM grille it requires pinching, prying, and pulling lots of retainers. It was a pain. Literally.
As you can see the Boss 302S grille looks extremely aggressive and was a perfect complement to my Mustangs appearance.
RTR rear decklid panel.
What’s with the fake gas cap thing on the rear decklid panel? Yeah, I know. The faux gas cap is a throw-back retro styling feature for the new Mustangs. To be honest, it is a somewhat notable and important feature for the Mustangs meaningful persona. But, what would it look like without the huge bulging faux cap?
Originally, I was hesitant to purchase the RTR decklid panel because of the installation. It requires cutting! Get this. You have to physically cut a hole in the decklid! It is irreversible. Are they crazy? Who wants to do that? Not this guy.
My fears began to subside once I read some reviews from folks that had successfully completed the installation. In the end, I decided the cutting and the installation wasn’t THAT big of a deal. How bad could it be?
Removing the factory decklid panel is a bit of a pain since you have to get behind the OEM panel and pinch and release several retaining clips. If I didn’t care about scratching the paint and if more room was available, it would have been an easier task. Once the factory panel was removed, butchering the decklid was surprisingly simple. My hand-held dremmel did the job quickly, cleanly, and efficiently. With the bulge removed, the rest of the installation was a breeze. I cleaned the vacant decklid area were the OEM panel used to reside and used the supplied 3M adhesive tape to secure the new RTR panel to the decklid. Worked like a charm!
The only thing I don’t like about the RTR panel is that it is smaller than the OEM plastic panel and it doesn’t roll around the edges of the decklid like the OEM piece. Because of this, the RTR panel requires the use of some cheesy black tape which you place around the edges. Freaking retarded. It looks okay but, I’m concerned about the longevity of the crappy black tape. Had I read the instructions first, like we are all supposed to, I would have scrapped the tape proposition and properly prepped and painted those areas gloss black to match the new RTR panel. Believe me, paint would have been a much better solution.
All things considered the RTR rear decklid panel provides a clean smooth stealthy appearance that looks great between the gorgeous factory tail lamps. I love it!
Picture to follow…
Boss 302 rear bumper diffuser.
Missing something?
Personally, I don’t like the plain-Jane ordinary looking Mustang GT rear bumper fascia. Especially, the unappealing area underneath the license plate pocket between the rear tailpipes. The specific area I’m referring to is painted and has a little flat-black molding but, for some reason, it bothers me. It looks unfinished. Take a step back and look at the overall design details and then focus on the rear bumper. Do you see it?
The GT rear bumper doesn’t match the performance styling features from the rest of the car. Furthermore, if you look at the bumper design, you can easily see that ‘something’ is missing and should be fitted into that specific molded area between the tailpipes.
Well, that missing piece is the Boss 302 rear bumper diffuser.
The installation of the Boss 302 rear bumper diffuser requires the removal of the rear bumper cover, a little bit of trimming for clearance, and some drilling to aid the attachment of the new diffuser. I know some guys have completed the install with the rear fascia on the car but, I wanted to have sufficient room to make clean cuts and perfectly drilled holes for an OEM appearance.
I took my time and it was well worth the effort. The new rear Boss 302 bumper diffuser fit perfectly and cures the GT’s homely facade.
Ford likely omitted this precious addition from the GT because of the Boss. They needed the Boss to look more sporty, track-ready, and aggressive. They shouldn’t have done that. This rear diffuser belongs on this car. This simple part finishes the unfinished look of the rear bumper fascia. It is obvious and I highly recommend it and the bold appearance it provides.
Moreover, the RTR panel and Boss rear diffuser combination creates an unchallenged sinister look that is very fitting to the overall character of the Mustang GT.
Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs.
The Mustang GT has enormous wheel gaps. They’re undoubtedly gargantuan. The front wheel gap is large enough, but, the rear gap, well, the rear gap brings a whole new definition to the term. I can’t have my Mustang looking like this. I can’t. It is as simple as that.
Purchasing the Eibach Sportline Springs was a tough decision for me and a decision that I will likely be forced to revisit in the future.
Why? Because I don’t like doing things half-assed. I don’t like installing JUST springs. It creates problems. In my experience, there is a really good chance that the new spring rates will not match the valving in the OEM shocks. Sometimes it is worse than others but, you can almost always expect a choppy ride, uncomfortable ride, or both. In some cases, installing the wrong aftermarket spring and shock combination will actually decrease handling performance.
To do things correctly, I should have purchased and installed a ‘matched’ spring strut/shock package so all the components to work together for my application. This way I know I’m going to get a superior ride and the best possible performance.
On this occasion I failed myself. I didn’t want to spend the money. Or, should I say, I didn’t want to spend the money twice.
I almost always run high-quality aftermarket Coilovers in my vehicles because I prefer the adjustability, performance, ride quality, and reliability. Having said this, my heart is truly set on installing Coilovers in my Mustang. Good Coilovers. And good Coilovers cost money. Big money. Sometime in the future I plan on purchasing the Cortex Racing Coilover setup for my GT. However, the Cortex Coilovers are going to have to wait until I have the cash and more time to spend on the track.
So what about the Eibachs?
I selected the Sportline lowering springs because of the 1.3 front and 2.0 rear drop in ride height. These springs level-out the stance and improve the overall appearance. Prior to ordering, I’d read several reviews regarding the favorable ride quality with the OEM shocks. However, since I’ve been to this dance before, I knew that any raving reviews regarding the Sportline/OEM shock ride quality needs to be met with massive skepticism. Simply put, you can’t change the springs and use the factory shocks without affecting the ride quality. I was right. We all just need to be realistic. Ultimately though, because I knew what to expect, I feel the ride quality is altogether tolerable. Sure, it is bouncy, rough, and choppy at times depending on the road surface but, for the most part, it rides fine.
Turn in response has been slightly improved and the Sportlines have definitely lowered the center of gravity but, there is still plenty of body roll. I can’t say the new Sportline springs improved the handling performance. I’d describe the overall handling performance as basically unchanged and unaffected. Fortunately for me, I didn’t purchase the Sportlines to improve the handling characteristics or performance, I purchased them for appearance. I got what I paid for.
But wait. You didn’t mention an adjustable Panhard bar? You need that to center your rear axle after lowering. Yep, that’s true. My rear differential shifted a half inch to the left. I need one. I’m still working on that (adjustable Panhard Bar, or Watts Link?).
Shelby Powered by Ford emblems.
Have you noticed that the new Mustangs don’t have any Ford ‘Blue Oval’ emblems? The horror!
Having been an original 5.0 owner, the new 5.0 emblems were definitely a feature that got my attention. They look great. But, everyone’s got them on their GT.
The first time I saw the Shelby emblems was at the Dealership. They were attached to some ridiculously priced dealer-customized 2014 Mustang. I thought the emblems looked different, unique, and pretty cool. The Shelby emblems don’t advertise the engine size and I like the idea of keeping the non-Mustang folks guessing. I figure, if you need to know what’s under my hood, you can figure it out by the sound of the exhaust and the sight and smell of tire smoke!
Sticker shock! The Shelby ‘Powered by Ford’ emblems are expensive. It took me a month of contemplating before I finally pulled the trigger and purchased them. Thanks Ebay!
The Shelby emblems are self-adhesive and the installation is self-explanatory. But, for those of you that don’t know, when the 5.0 emblems are removed, they leave two gnarly holes in each fender. Luckily, the Shelby emblems are large enough to cover the holes.
In my opinion, the Shelby ‘Powered by Ford’ emblems definitely set my Mustang apart from the other GT’s on the road. I’ve caught more than one person in the parking lot trying to figure-out which model Mustang they are looking at. It happens at stop lights too and it is hilarious. That, to me, makes them worth the money. Plus, I’m finally sporting some Ford blue ovals, albeit, very small blue ovals!
My Mustang GT’s appearance has been modestly transformed. Opinions may vary on the choices that I have made but, I feel my choices complement the GT perfectly. There is little doubt that my Mustang is now truly MY Mustang. I haven’t seen another Mustang like it and thus I have achieved my goal. My Mustang stands alone.
Mike
Honestly, completely stock and factory equipped my Mustang GT looks great. But, I have a hard time calling my Mustang ‘mine’ when it looks like every other Mustang GT on the road. If you’re like me, then you want to customize your Mustang to make it your own. To make it different and to make it stand alone. You want to make your Mustang, well, yours! Luckily with help from the aftermarket and Ford Racing that desire to be different has truly become a reality.
The Boss 302S Grille.
The factory GT grille looks great and it is a significant improvement over the base model. I think most people, including many of my outspoken car-enthusiast friends prefer the GT grille for its large round fog lights that deliver the old-school retro look from the 60’s. It’s hard to argue, the stock GT grille belongs on this car!
Yet, no matter how cool the stock GT grille might be, I know I’ll never use those classic omnipresent fog lamps. If there was a factory option to delete the fog lamps, I would have requested it. Since that option did not exist and since I wanted to change the appearance of my Mustang anyway, I thought the grille was a good place to start.
I’ve always liked the grille on the new Boss Mustang. It doesn’t have fog lamps. But, what’s with the fog lamp delete inserts? I don’t like those. Not only do they look plain and out of place, they also block air flow. I know that the inserts can be removed, but the insert openings look unfinished and ugly without them.
So, I was relieved when I found the Ford Racing Boss 302S grille. The S grille had a similar look of the Boss grille but, it doesn’t have the plain nasty looking fog lamp delete inserts. Instead it sports two smartly sized and perfectly finished holes with metal mesh grille inserts. Air flow will not be a problem with this grille! Moreover, unlike some other aftermarket options there is no need to purchase an upper and lower grille, the Boss 302S grille matches the factory lower grille. Sweet!
My fingers hurt!
There is nothing particularly difficult about the installation of the Boss 302S grille. However, as you would suspect, the front bumper fascia needs to be removed to gain access to the grille, fog lamps and fog lamp brackets.
I shan’t bore you with the details regarding the installation. You can research it yourself.
However, it is worth mentioning that in order to remove the OEM grille it requires pinching, prying, and pulling lots of retainers. It was a pain. Literally.
As you can see the Boss 302S grille looks extremely aggressive and was a perfect complement to my Mustangs appearance.
RTR rear decklid panel.
What’s with the fake gas cap thing on the rear decklid panel? Yeah, I know. The faux gas cap is a throw-back retro styling feature for the new Mustangs. To be honest, it is a somewhat notable and important feature for the Mustangs meaningful persona. But, what would it look like without the huge bulging faux cap?
Originally, I was hesitant to purchase the RTR decklid panel because of the installation. It requires cutting! Get this. You have to physically cut a hole in the decklid! It is irreversible. Are they crazy? Who wants to do that? Not this guy.
My fears began to subside once I read some reviews from folks that had successfully completed the installation. In the end, I decided the cutting and the installation wasn’t THAT big of a deal. How bad could it be?
Removing the factory decklid panel is a bit of a pain since you have to get behind the OEM panel and pinch and release several retaining clips. If I didn’t care about scratching the paint and if more room was available, it would have been an easier task. Once the factory panel was removed, butchering the decklid was surprisingly simple. My hand-held dremmel did the job quickly, cleanly, and efficiently. With the bulge removed, the rest of the installation was a breeze. I cleaned the vacant decklid area were the OEM panel used to reside and used the supplied 3M adhesive tape to secure the new RTR panel to the decklid. Worked like a charm!
The only thing I don’t like about the RTR panel is that it is smaller than the OEM plastic panel and it doesn’t roll around the edges of the decklid like the OEM piece. Because of this, the RTR panel requires the use of some cheesy black tape which you place around the edges. Freaking retarded. It looks okay but, I’m concerned about the longevity of the crappy black tape. Had I read the instructions first, like we are all supposed to, I would have scrapped the tape proposition and properly prepped and painted those areas gloss black to match the new RTR panel. Believe me, paint would have been a much better solution.
All things considered the RTR rear decklid panel provides a clean smooth stealthy appearance that looks great between the gorgeous factory tail lamps. I love it!
Picture to follow…
Boss 302 rear bumper diffuser.
Missing something?
Personally, I don’t like the plain-Jane ordinary looking Mustang GT rear bumper fascia. Especially, the unappealing area underneath the license plate pocket between the rear tailpipes. The specific area I’m referring to is painted and has a little flat-black molding but, for some reason, it bothers me. It looks unfinished. Take a step back and look at the overall design details and then focus on the rear bumper. Do you see it?
The GT rear bumper doesn’t match the performance styling features from the rest of the car. Furthermore, if you look at the bumper design, you can easily see that ‘something’ is missing and should be fitted into that specific molded area between the tailpipes.
Well, that missing piece is the Boss 302 rear bumper diffuser.
The installation of the Boss 302 rear bumper diffuser requires the removal of the rear bumper cover, a little bit of trimming for clearance, and some drilling to aid the attachment of the new diffuser. I know some guys have completed the install with the rear fascia on the car but, I wanted to have sufficient room to make clean cuts and perfectly drilled holes for an OEM appearance.
I took my time and it was well worth the effort. The new rear Boss 302 bumper diffuser fit perfectly and cures the GT’s homely facade.
Ford likely omitted this precious addition from the GT because of the Boss. They needed the Boss to look more sporty, track-ready, and aggressive. They shouldn’t have done that. This rear diffuser belongs on this car. This simple part finishes the unfinished look of the rear bumper fascia. It is obvious and I highly recommend it and the bold appearance it provides.
Moreover, the RTR panel and Boss rear diffuser combination creates an unchallenged sinister look that is very fitting to the overall character of the Mustang GT.
Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs.
The Mustang GT has enormous wheel gaps. They’re undoubtedly gargantuan. The front wheel gap is large enough, but, the rear gap, well, the rear gap brings a whole new definition to the term. I can’t have my Mustang looking like this. I can’t. It is as simple as that.
Purchasing the Eibach Sportline Springs was a tough decision for me and a decision that I will likely be forced to revisit in the future.
Why? Because I don’t like doing things half-assed. I don’t like installing JUST springs. It creates problems. In my experience, there is a really good chance that the new spring rates will not match the valving in the OEM shocks. Sometimes it is worse than others but, you can almost always expect a choppy ride, uncomfortable ride, or both. In some cases, installing the wrong aftermarket spring and shock combination will actually decrease handling performance.
To do things correctly, I should have purchased and installed a ‘matched’ spring strut/shock package so all the components to work together for my application. This way I know I’m going to get a superior ride and the best possible performance.
On this occasion I failed myself. I didn’t want to spend the money. Or, should I say, I didn’t want to spend the money twice.
I almost always run high-quality aftermarket Coilovers in my vehicles because I prefer the adjustability, performance, ride quality, and reliability. Having said this, my heart is truly set on installing Coilovers in my Mustang. Good Coilovers. And good Coilovers cost money. Big money. Sometime in the future I plan on purchasing the Cortex Racing Coilover setup for my GT. However, the Cortex Coilovers are going to have to wait until I have the cash and more time to spend on the track.
So what about the Eibachs?
I selected the Sportline lowering springs because of the 1.3 front and 2.0 rear drop in ride height. These springs level-out the stance and improve the overall appearance. Prior to ordering, I’d read several reviews regarding the favorable ride quality with the OEM shocks. However, since I’ve been to this dance before, I knew that any raving reviews regarding the Sportline/OEM shock ride quality needs to be met with massive skepticism. Simply put, you can’t change the springs and use the factory shocks without affecting the ride quality. I was right. We all just need to be realistic. Ultimately though, because I knew what to expect, I feel the ride quality is altogether tolerable. Sure, it is bouncy, rough, and choppy at times depending on the road surface but, for the most part, it rides fine.
Turn in response has been slightly improved and the Sportlines have definitely lowered the center of gravity but, there is still plenty of body roll. I can’t say the new Sportline springs improved the handling performance. I’d describe the overall handling performance as basically unchanged and unaffected. Fortunately for me, I didn’t purchase the Sportlines to improve the handling characteristics or performance, I purchased them for appearance. I got what I paid for.
But wait. You didn’t mention an adjustable Panhard bar? You need that to center your rear axle after lowering. Yep, that’s true. My rear differential shifted a half inch to the left. I need one. I’m still working on that (adjustable Panhard Bar, or Watts Link?).
Shelby Powered by Ford emblems.
Have you noticed that the new Mustangs don’t have any Ford ‘Blue Oval’ emblems? The horror!
Having been an original 5.0 owner, the new 5.0 emblems were definitely a feature that got my attention. They look great. But, everyone’s got them on their GT.
The first time I saw the Shelby emblems was at the Dealership. They were attached to some ridiculously priced dealer-customized 2014 Mustang. I thought the emblems looked different, unique, and pretty cool. The Shelby emblems don’t advertise the engine size and I like the idea of keeping the non-Mustang folks guessing. I figure, if you need to know what’s under my hood, you can figure it out by the sound of the exhaust and the sight and smell of tire smoke!
Sticker shock! The Shelby ‘Powered by Ford’ emblems are expensive. It took me a month of contemplating before I finally pulled the trigger and purchased them. Thanks Ebay!
The Shelby emblems are self-adhesive and the installation is self-explanatory. But, for those of you that don’t know, when the 5.0 emblems are removed, they leave two gnarly holes in each fender. Luckily, the Shelby emblems are large enough to cover the holes.
In my opinion, the Shelby ‘Powered by Ford’ emblems definitely set my Mustang apart from the other GT’s on the road. I’ve caught more than one person in the parking lot trying to figure-out which model Mustang they are looking at. It happens at stop lights too and it is hilarious. That, to me, makes them worth the money. Plus, I’m finally sporting some Ford blue ovals, albeit, very small blue ovals!
My Mustang GT’s appearance has been modestly transformed. Opinions may vary on the choices that I have made but, I feel my choices complement the GT perfectly. There is little doubt that my Mustang is now truly MY Mustang. I haven’t seen another Mustang like it and thus I have achieved my goal. My Mustang stands alone.
Mike
Great looking personalized GT! It's tastefully done.
^^^^
Thanks!
That's great! I'm not surprised!
You should have seen the looks I was getting with the 'lopey' idle tune. LOL!
Mike
Thanks!
That's great! I'm not surprised!
You should have seen the looks I was getting with the 'lopey' idle tune. LOL!
Mike
Users who are viewing this thread
