Radiator Upgrade...which one?

[weaselp1]

Hello,

Long story short, I took the cobra out for a spirited drive and my coolant temp which normally is (195-210) got up to 225 in 78 ambient temperatures in Wisconsin, which is a little high for my liking. :shrug: I have the sensor for the coolant temperature directly in the engine block.

I know I need a upgraded HE, which I planning to do, but that only addresses the IC temps. I have read lots of posts here about mishimito and fluidyne radiators breaking, not being direct fits etc. What is the best radiator and or the best way to lower the coolant temp going into the engine block?

I run a 50/50 mix with water wetter and I also have a 170 tstat I bought that I am going to install.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[Tractionless1]

I'd start with the Reische stat. and a lower coolant ratio. Many owners have "upgraded" from the OE radiator only to go back because it cools best. I run under 200* in Florida with a Reische stat., 80/20 water/coolant ratio, and all else oe.

 

[SVTDice]

Do the 170 and then see where you stand, You'll be pretty happy with the results. While you're at it you might as well do a good flush on your radiator fluid.

Stick with the stocker honestly.

 

[weaselp1]

Thanks for the replies guys. Much appreciated! I will do a flush and the tstat and see where things are.

 

[Midnight_Cobra]

+1

New stock radiator if you need me. And a 170 Tstat. Should be good.

 

[Tractionless1]

+1

New stock radiator if you need me. And a 170 Tstat. Should be good.

Or he can even have it internally cleaned and repaired at a radiator shop. I'm surprised more members don't take that route, considering the new OE cost.

 

[Emwun Garand]

My stocker broke and I didn't want to pay for a new OEM one so I went with Mishimoto. No problems yet, and it comes with a lifetime "no questions asked" warranty.

 

[rudycobra]

My stocker broke and I didn't want to pay for a new OEM one so I went with Mishimoto. No problems yet, and it comes with a lifetime "no questions asked" warranty.

Same here . Good bang for the buck

 

[Midnight_Cobra]

Or he can even have it internally cleaned and repaired at a radiator shop. I'm surprised more members don't take that route, considering the new OE cost.

What does something like that usually cost?

 

[Tractionless1]

What does something like that usually cost?

Luckily I don't know yet on the Cobra and it's been about 12 yrs. since I've dealt with a rad. shop, but from what I recall less than $100. Give a shop an call, they'll be glad to try and get your biz!

 

[cnnrlck]

It's hit and miss, but I have an LFP race radiator...I've had it a year with no issues. A higher water concentration with some Amsoil coolant booster or water wetter will also help, then of course adjusting the fan settings with the thermostat will make the most of this.

 

[01cobravortech]

At your power level OP the Reische t-stat should be suffice. Those bigger radiators are overkill if you don't OT a car. I've done the bigger radiator and nothing lowered my coolant temps like a Resiche t-stat.

Also, as a side note, in every instance I've ever had my coolant temps rise above 220F it was always due to being in stop and go traffic in +90F or as a result of some cooling issue. Recently I had my coolant temps rising higher than normal and it turned out to be air in the system.

Unbeknownst to me, the little o-ring in the crossover tube cap had torn and was allowing coolant to seep out through there. Put a new o-ring on and reburped and bam coolant temps back to 'normal.'