Question for those runnin 11" rear wheels:

[JPs2013GT500]

I recently purchased a set of Forgestar CF5's (20x9 +35 and 20x11 +55). Two main questions:
1. I jacked the car up, put the rear rim on and it rubs against that small angled part that some people remove to run wider wheels. Sorry I don't know the technical name of the part. I've read that once the car is lowered back down and the suspension loaded, it will be fine. Just want clarification on that before I mount the tires.

2. Tires. I have a set of 305/35-20 nitto 555r's. They are listed at 28.58" tall. I run them on my 10" wheels now with no problems. However, do you think that will be too tall for the new 11" rim? Should I drop down to a 305/30-20 or 315/30-20, etc.? What size is optimal for an 11" rear wheel?

Thanks for your time!

 

[2k7gtcs]

I too have 11" wide Forgestars on the rear. I have 19s. the 20s would actually be better like you have. Yes when the car is jacked up and the wheels drop they or are 'unloaded' they rub on the bumpstop bracket support. Not sure if that's what its called either but thats what i've called it. However when the car is lowered and under load it improves. If you have also dropped the car at all from stock height it gets even better. I think 305/35 is a good width. While I have a 305/35/19 which is shorter and noticeably so, I don't see anything wrong with the 305/35/20. Tons of people running those. I run them on my 2007 on 11" wide Steeda wheels.

I bought the bumpstop relocation brackets but have not used them. I did have to remove the dust boot from he shook and remove that carpet from the wheel well. But i have examined the car after hundreds of miles of use and no visible rubbing on the wheel or the car. I suppose if i was to catch a lot of air and unload the suspension while in motion it would be rubbing but apparently I haven't done that yet.

This is all just my opinion. I could be full of shit and the next guy may be more knowledgeable about this than I. Just my experiences.

 

[JPs2013GT500]

Thanks for the info. I didn't think about the dust boots on the shocks. Will check to see if I need to remove them and the wheel well liner as well.

On the tires, in thinking about it a little more, I may as well try the 305/35/20's. They need to come off the other wheels anyway so I can swap out the pressure sensors.

 

[Bad Company]

I'm running a 20x11 with a +58 offset. I also run a Watts Link. This keeps the tires and wheels centered under the body of the car no matter whether the suspenson is compressed or in full droop. My tires rub occasionally on a steep driveway ramp if I hit it too fast. But I'm running Michelin PSS 315/35/20 tires

 

[JPs2013GT500]

Thanks for the information. Does the Watts Link help prevent the suspension droop that causes the wheels/tires to rub that bump stop bracket when lifting the car? I've been eyeing that new BMR watts link kit so I may have to give it a try soon.

 

[Catmonkey]

Thanks for the information. Does the Watts Link help prevent the suspension droop that causes the wheels/tires to rub that bump stop bracket when lifting the car?

It does not. Because of the pendulum effect of the panhard rod as the suspension loads and unloads, the differential does not stay centered in the car. It doesn't shift left to right that much, but unless it's controlled, it's going to dictate a narrower tire. Here's a link to a write up I did removing the bump stop brackets. When you mount your tires, make sure the suspension is compressed if you don't remove the bump stop brackets. Not doing that could result in an untightened wheel or a possible bent axle.

 

[JPs2013GT500]

Great write-up, thank you very much!

 

[tomshep]

I am running Nitto Invo 315/35/20 on Shelby CS2s and I have zero issues. Stock height 2014 PP with a Ford Racing panhard, nothing else. I have to keep the suspension loaded or the rims would hit the bumpstop bracket you are talking about. Zero rub on the shock boots or wheelwell blanket.

Tom

 

[Catmonkey]

CS2s have less offset, so you're moving the tire more outboard. On a lowered car, you run the risk of rubbing/hitting on the outer fender. With 315s you don't have a lot of room to work with. Here's pic of my car with what would be a 61mm offset on an 11" rim and MPSS 315/35-20s.

I have removed the rear springs and jacked up the rear end to see how much tire clearance I had on the outer fender. It's minimal, but it doesn't rub or contact the tire. If you're running 315/35s, I'd recommend doing the same thing.

 

[MovingZen]

I have R888 315/30/ZR20 on the rear with True Forged 702s. I believe they are a +53 offset. I have less rubbing at my ride height with these tires than I did with the taller 295 MPSS K1s that I had before.

That's as low as the car will go and my bump stops are trimmed. If you look at your bump stop it's three levels and mine has the top two cut off. A normal car will not be able to get as low as what you see in these pictures. With a good offset you don't have to worry about hitting the fender. You might rub on the inner carpet but that can be cut out. The 305's you have are taller than my MPSS K1s. I really like the R888s, considerably more traction than the MPSS and the stock Good Years are no comparision. Below is my normal ride height.

 

[Cman01]

I run GA1R Forgelines 20x11" +55 with 295/35/20 MPSS (Porsche N0).

I'm not lowered but the wheels clear that metal bumpstop thingy. I usually lift up the back end of my car and support with jackstands on the axle tubes but before I put these wheels on I put the stands under the rocker panel lift area with homemade jacking pucks so the axle would fully drop down.

I put the Forgelines on both sides and it doesn't touch. It's very close but no contact. I do use an adj. panhard bar to center the axle. At normal ride height and over bumps there is no contact running them this past summer. I have done nothing at the back (no trimming the carpet piece inside the wheelwell, shock boot covers still in place)

These were my conditions when I ordered the wheels from Paul @ Howey. I wanted to do nothing to the car in the rear wheelwell area for these wheels to fit properly and Forgeline and he delivered (proper wheels for my car with the proper offset and sizing I wanted).

Tony

 

[JPs2013GT500]

Thanks for the feedback. Mine is lowered 1.5" in the rear. The bump-stop relocation bracket is on the way now. I still need to pick up the spot weld cutter/bit and some black paint so I can go ahead and remove the bracket.

I've heard great things about those Toyo R888's. I'm thinking that will probably be my next set of tires once the 555r's wear out.

 

[JPs2013GT500]

Update: I finally have the wheels on the car. It's very close, but I did not have to remove the bump stop bracket, liner, or shock boot/cover (yet). I have everything I need to remove & relocate the bracket at this point. However ,since it fit I figured I'd leave it alone for now and just enjoy it. I'll remove it next time I have to buy tires if I go with anything wider.

Thanks again for the advice provided!

Images:

 

[302project]

Dayuumm!!!

Do you think you could have gone with a 315 without removing anything.

I might do this in the future. Looks killer!!!

 

[JPs2013GT500]

Do you think you could have gone with a 315 without removing anything.

I wouldn't think so. It's very close to the shock dust/dirt cover now. Maybe with a different wheel offset or spacer to push the tire outward a bit.

 

[jtfx6552]

Looks great!

 

[Lethalchem]

Looks good. Those are the wheels I've decided on whenever I'm ready to change. Are those in the piano black color?

 

[JPs2013GT500]

Thanks

Are those in the piano black color?

Yes, that is correct.

 

[Lethalchem]

Thanks

Yes, that is correct.

Thanks. I was thinking of Matte or perhaps gunmetal for my SGM, but your color looks like it fits very well with the car. My only hesitation is I couldn't get the deep concave with the front/rear sizes I wanted. Always a little detail somewhere. lol

 

[HighTorque]

Love it great looking car!