straightpaint

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okay so it's been a while since I posted last. So the Dilemma is I finally want to install all these new parts I was stocking up starting with a qa1 K member for my 96 cobra with 98 engine. First issue I was having was with the motor mounts and the locating pins I had to grind off. why can't they just mock the factory K member where the pins would work just like the factory K member? so the second issue was a motor kept going towards the pass side pushing the shifter towards the driver side of the trans tunnel. Once I got the shifter centered and everything mounted up it seems as if the motor based on position of the crank Bolt is sitting more towards the passenger side. Now I'm assuming since the crank is the center of my motor it should be centered to the car relatively it seems as if it's an inch or two to the towards the passenger side. Valve cover clearances although seem great on both sides. once I put the rack on the K member using the factory bushings which did fit with a little persuasion I had problems with the steering shaft rubbing on the bottom of the shift to the top of the header which is hooker long tubes. I tried pulling in and out on the firewall section of the steering shaft to adjust angle of the knuckle but still seems as if it's going to rub no matter what. Other issue is my hooker long tubes on the passenger side or dented because they sit against the rear K member mounting plate. The motor mount studs are bottomed out in the K member groove cannot go any lower. As far as I can tell there is no adjusting the position of this K member. I'm sure I can grind down the mounting plate on the passenger side of the K member to clear it between the header but I would rather not it seems as if something is off. Again I have the qa1 K member with energy suspension mounts and hooker LTS. At this moment passenger side header is hitting body on right side near rear K member mounting flange and steering shaft is rubbing on the bottom side. but my biggest concern is that this motor is sitting crooked even though it seems as if the shifter is sitting centered in the tunnel I would like to know if that crank bolt should be centered to the radiator support? I don't recall. I also forgot to mention that I had to make reinforcement plates to put on top of the fender aprons where those clip nuts go because there was rust and I was scared about strength but they are on the top side and should not affect anything except the amount of thread that passes through the nut. I can't wait to hear what all you come up with. sorry for such a long post just trying to avoid unnecessary questions or waste anybody's time
 

fastferndog

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Several years back I installed a QA1 and all I can suggest is get rid of it. It will never square up without major re fab. We took it to Maximum where we got the new one and they could not believe how far off it was in multiple points. Its built ok but nothing fits without a lot of work. get yourself an MM K member and control arms. If you want o keep your stock suspension I think Team Z has one that you can get. Good luck.
 

straightpaint

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Several years back I installed a QA1 and all I can suggest is get rid of it. It will never square up without major re fab. We took it to Maximum where we got the new one and they could not believe how far off it was in multiple points. Its built ok but nothing fits without a lot of work. get yourself an MM K member and control arms. If you want o keep your stock suspension I think Team Z has one that you can get. Good luck.
I believe it man trust me what I just did was got off the phone with Summit and I'm returning all my qa1 parts and exchanging them for aje suspension parts so now I need to crawl into the car take the rack back off Jack the motor up drop the K member box it all up and ship it back and wait for the aje K member to show up this qa1 is crap

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straightpaint

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Glad you're getting rid of it
I'm just glad summit customer service is awesome I bought everything 7 months ago. The only thing im beat on is the ES motor mounts I had to grind the locating tabs off of and slit the rear mount bolt hole for my headers. Never driven on. Up for sale is anyone wants them. Have to use AJE mounts with their k member

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straightpaint

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Still waiting on aje k member and coil over Kit it's been a month at this point. Received their camber caster plates and thought they were trash and return them picked up Steeda ones.

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straightpaint

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I would have loved to went MM but budget wouldn't allow me to. So far
Steeda cc plates
Steeda ud pulleys
Mmr windage tray
Mmr cooling head mod
Ac delete
Canton 7 qt pan
Fidanza alum flywheel
Hooker LTS
Hooker x pipe
No cats
Centerforce clutch

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straightpaint

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So the aje kit showed up last night I opened the horrible packed box grabbed the passenger side motor mount and went to install it. I put it right back in the box with the rest of the K member control arms piss poor direction sheets that look like they ran out of ink with half the page cut off and taped up the box and shipped it back to summit.. the motor mount plate does not even line up with bolt holes on the block. They're is a tab sticking out of the block near the front 2 blots on the passenger side that they didnt account for. My energy suspension mounts fit perfect. Aje claims there must be a casting they are unaware of. I said bullshit my 96 and 98 motors are identical. So sick of this crap.
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fastferndog

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Damn Bro! I'm really sorry that you're having such a bad time with something that should be a straight forward installation. If you're in a serious budget, then you might want to give UPR a chance, or Team Z. I'm sure they have better quality. I have heard of minimal issues with the UPR, but it was a long time ago. If you do decide with MM I believe that you will also need an OIL FILTER RELOCATION kit. I've never been happier with their products, and if there's ever a problem they will stand behind their products 100%!!!
 

straightpaint

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The way I'm looking at it is. The aje kit was $800. With that refund and $200 I'm at a grand to spend. I need the K member control arms and coil over Kit that will work with the strange struts I originally bought to go with 175lb springs in the aje kit. Then I'm on the road. I have the steeda bumpsteer and steeda camber plates. I like the idea of the oil filter kit but MM is so much money. Nice UNIT though. This is gonna be driven one day a week one the street and one day at the strip and that's it. Not really building to drive daily. At this point is it worth putting out the extra money for MM with all the extra stuff you need like the sway bar relocation and the oil filter?

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fastferndog

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With the 175 lb springs sounds like drag racing. I have seen the UPR kit with coilovers for around $700 with mild steel and maybe $100 more for chromemoly. I don't know the team z prices but you're looking under $800, with control arms, coilovers, and k member. If you're drag racing then that's fine. Road racing or spirited driving ( canions n stuff..Maximum all the way !).
 

fastferndog

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that's a good question. I use the 14" but I have a 300lb up front, and might even go to a 375-400lb after I change my struts to a street - Road race from the drag struts I have now. I think it will come down to tuning your suspension and see what works for you, but a 175/200 is a good start point for drag
 

Helomech74

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I'd start with a 14x150 spring if you're going to drag race the car and start tuning it from there. I have about 1/8" of clearance from the coil-over perch to my wheel, so be prepared to run a small spacer if needed (it's going to depend on the wheel size and offset.) Team Z or UPR, pick one and go, both are similar in quality, although I've had better customer service from Team Z.
 

straightpaint

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Just ordered my upr k member kit. Should be here by wed. Let's see what happens.. I went for the 175lb springs. They said 150 would strictly be track use. They were able to get me for the 60 or 70 bucks for the bolt upgrade and another 30 for shipping. Out the door $981

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