Pushing in the curves

LariatPSD

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On my '98 GT I had a fairly basic suspension package. Sticky tires, Caster/camber plates, Steeda springs, bumpsteer kit, urethane bushings, and all the chassis bracing.

That was a very comfortable riding car that really would deliver amazing cornering grip that was very predictable as you neared the limits.

With the old car I could enter a corner somewhat conservatively and then keep my foot heavily into the throttle until the rear would just barely start to walk, then just maintain until just after the apex and hammer down as you unwind the steering wheel.

The Cobra I've got now is ten times the car that the GT was. I have ALL the Griggs goodies except the SLA kit and a supercharger. I also am running the exact same tires. Unfortunately the car just wants to understeer the corners unless you completely pull out of the throttle. Then the nose will bite in.

I feel like I have to enter a corner a lot hotter and then keep a feather light foot on the gas thru the apex. Then I can jump on the gas as the car washes over to the outside of the lane. After the turn I'm smelling the outside front tire that was burning.

The parts list is like this:

Front-- Tubular K-member and offset front A-arms, Koni adjustable track shocks w/400 lb coilovers, caster/camber plates, aggressive alignment at 2.5* neg camber / 7.5* caster.

Rear-- Torque Arm, Panhard bar, Koni adjustable track shocks and 200 lb coil overs.

I've played with the shocks and tire pressures. Group 2 said the alignment was PERFECT. For a car with all this stuff and a spine compressing ride, I believe it should communicate what it needs a little clearer to me. Make no mistake, it will murder an M3 at the track, I just want a little more balance.
Any ideas?
 
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96 chris

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what kind of tires are on it?

If those dyno figures at the bottom of your sig are still accurate, then you're tourque looks lowto me.
 
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tomustang

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Gotta love the weight of a 4Cam+Forged crank up front, giving the more understeer. You best bet would be calling griggs and asking them since it's there setup you got on the car and they would have a better time dialing in the understeer with their parts
 

LariatPSD

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what kind of tires are on it?

If those dyno figures at the bottom of your sig are still accurate, then you're tourque looks lowto me.

Falken Azenis RT-615 275/35/18 Great Tires

IMRC's are deleted and 1 3/4 LT headers - good for HP, bad for TQ.
 

Ciotti

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Most likely you're not getting any less front grip in this car than your old one, but you are getting a TON more rear grip because of the torque arm and panhard bar which is most likely what is making the car understeer. In your old car, the 4 link wasn't articulating the rear axle properly which greatly reduces the amount of grip back there and these cars will be tail happy with just a few mods to the front suspension because of that. As far as your current set up goes, you can actually dial in a bit more front camber at the track to make it stick a bit better up there, most of the American Iron guys run between 3 and 4 degrees depending on what track they're at.

Spend some more time dialing in your shocks too, there is an awful lot you can do with just that adjustment to fine tune understeer/oversteer.

Also, it may be time to look at your driving style, when your on the throttle in corners even a little bit you are putting extra weight and grip to the back tires which (now that you have a proper rear suspension) will make the car push. Try braking later going into the corner, trail brake as you turn in or turn in with no throttle on at all, roll into the throttle so that you hit your apex nice and late then you will have a lot of room for your exit so it won't make a difference that it begins to understeer as you apply more and more and more throttle. These cars like to be driven into late apexes as it is, it may be time for you to perfect that (much easier said than done!)
 
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