Pulling Wheel Hub to change studs...

[wjfawb0]

Hey all, I am going to try and pull the wheel hub this weekend so I can press out the stock studs and press in some longer moroso studs (I am going to install 1/2" hubcentric spacers to allow the mounting of 315 BFGs on 10.5" rims).

I have an axle puller. Can I use that to press off the wheel hub? What all am I going to end up pulling out to get the hub out for all the pressing work?

Tonight I pulled off the brakes and rotors to inspect everything to see how much trouble it would be. I got down to the wheel hubs and think it would be best to remove them and install the new studs to prevent damaging the bearings. I doubt the longer studs would easily fit into the hub with the spindle in the way of pulling the studs through, anyhow.

Thanks for any tips. The wheel hub is found in this picture for those wondering:

UPDATE: I found this great article with pics for taking apart the IRS:

http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/irsgears/irs1.html

Kick arse. I'll let everyone know what happens.

-Jason

 

[wjfawb0]

First of all, I'd like to thank Rhonda for answering the phone after 8PM tonight and Tim for helping me get my rear caliper back on the car. :thumbsup: T&J Performance kicks arse. (I pulled the parking brake with the caliper off the rotor and it extended the piston. To retract the piston and allow me to get the caliper back over the pads and rotor, I had to twist the piston head in clockwise using needle nose pliers.) Thanks again Tim.

OK, so here's what happened tonight. I pulled the driver's side wheel (13/16" socket) and removed the caliper (12mm wrench) and bracket (15mm wrench) holding the pads. You have to also disconnect the parking brake cable from the spring perch (8mm screw) so that some slack will be available in the cable to allow you to move the caliper out of the way. I then removed the rotor. I sprayed penetrating oil on the front and back of the studs.

I used two 5"+ C-clamps and piece of brass to press out the first stock stud. Doing this by yourself is kinda tricky, but do-able (I managed somehow). I positioned the c-clamps on either side of the stud and twisted each one 90* alternating back and forth until the stud unseated and popped out.

Success!!!! On the IRS, you can get the short stock studs out and the longer aftermarket studs in around the 2 o'clock position on the spindle.

Then, I inserted the new moroso stud and used 4 1/2" washers with a junky advanced auto parts lug nut to pull in the new stud. I coated the new stud threads with anti-seize to make the seating easier.

Now, the stud drew up pretty easily. About the time it was almost fully seated, the wrench turned a little too easy. Schiot!!!! Did I strip the stud????

After removing the socket I saw what happened.

The stud was fine, the cheap lug nut stripped out its thread and coated the stud. I unwrapped the nut threads off the stud.

The new stud is in.

So, be careful with the nuts. Once the stud is fully drawn up, stop wrenching on it.

I am going to try and finish the car this Sunday. I'll post pics then of the spacers, wheels and all mounted on the car.

-Jason