PULLEY - Could NOT get it off!!

Fast03Cobra

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Had the car at the speed shop. They gave me a great price to install diablo tune, dyno (a/f), and install the pulley.

They could not get the pully off. So they decided to take off the entire blower snout. Drained all the blower oil. Then they realized they could not get that off without draining the intercooler coolant to remove a hose in the way.

Slapped it back together and said they needed a day when I could leave the car.

Anyone have problems getting the pulley off?

Is there not a special puller?


WAS KILLING me to watch my blower beings screwed with... I was pacing like my wife was giving birth to a child....

Bolts look tamperered with (dealer will frown?).
Pulley is slightly damaged, but I think its straight. Little bend in the lip from the puller. I think they used an impact at one point.

Anyway, they were no longer comfortable and need more time than we had.

I figured this was an EASY install??

:cuss:
 

f4sfed

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I bought the pulley puller tool with my 2.93 DUB pulley. I have yet to use it (probably tonight if I get the chance). I got mine from South Florida Pulley Headquarters.
 

michigancobra

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I had a problem getting my off. I had SFPH's pulley tool, I bent the crap out of it. I ended up
using a hydraulic puller to do it. A buddy of mine pulls them all day long at GM, so thank god he came over with the right tools to do the job. I did find another puller tool at pulleyboys.com, theres seems to be made a lot better. Grade 5 bolts and it has 3 guide bolts instead of 2.
Let me know how it goes, I've been through this already. Just make sure the S/C shaft is not messed up and you'll be okay.
 

sqidd

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I bought the pulley tool from South Florida Pulley HQ and had no problems at all. I sat down and read the instuctions twice as Terry recomended. The pulley came right off. I would say it took me 1/2hr. Im sure if I did it again it would only take 15min. I would recomend getting a tool and doing it yourself. Plus if you screw it up you wont need to go through the hassel of finding someone to b*&#%:cuss: at.


good luck

sqidd
 

Fast03Cobra

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Actually this makes me a little nervous. Understandably so!

The WARRANTY issue is what kills me. If I break something I'm screwed! What would it cost to fix a broken Blower snout? Then is the warranty void on the blower? Engine?

Can they tell that I installed a smaller pulley? Does the scan tool they use for diagnostics tell them the pressure?

Want to do this mod, but I am worried about these things. Anyone EVER mention anything about HEAD GASKETS BLOWING?

YIKES!
 

f4sfed

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All sports fans! AFD! The DUB 2.93 upper pulley is in place! I have three words: AWE-FRICKIN-SOME! The potential just waiting to be let out in the car is IN-FRICKIN-CREDIBLE!

And yes, I used the SFPH pulley puller. It worked well...but I must say, you should have a "feel" for wrenchin' if you're gonna do this yourself. There are a couple spots (like when the pulley first breaks loose), that are not comfortable. But all in all, it went VERY well, and I had it done in hour (I took breaks to grab a piece of pizza, etc).

As for SOTP? Puh-LEAZE!!! I can not BELIEVE the difference!!!! Can not believe it!!!! AND I WILL STILL BE ABLE TO IDLE IN TRAFFIC WITH THE AIR ON!!!!! LOL :lol: LOL :lol: LOL :lol: LOL :lol:
 

mm49

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I had mine done. Pulling the blower snout off and disconnecting the hose ( not much IC fluid comes out if you suck the fluid out of the resivour first). Over to the Press Pulley off and Pulley on.

Entire process including refilling the Blower w/ Oil and the Test Drive was 1 hour & 15 mins. Techs just got to know what they are doing.

JL
 

Silver 03 Cobra

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I bought the ASP pulley puller. Terry told me to heat the stock pulley but I didn't want to discolor it if I ever had to put it back on the blower. My puller bent also plus it took a lot of torque to get it to move. I got my torch and was able to get it off but it was tight as hell. Based on tolerance stackup, some pulleys may be tighter than others. Just a couple of tenths of one thousandths can mean hundreds of pounds of force to move.

I remade the cross bar out of steel. Contrary to the myth that aluminum is stronger than steel, steel is 3 times stronger than aluminum. The aluminum cross bar on the ASP tool is marginal.

Another thing Terry told me was to put anti-seize on the screw. I should have done this. It has two purposes. One I knew of from experience. The tool has a Grade 8 bolt but the screw is made from hot roll steel. This is a big no in my opinion. It will gall under load. The second purpose is to reduce friction and you need all you can to be reduced.

Another problem I had was the puller plate was too long and it would hit the water outlet on the left side so I had to cut it off. The tool also has a tendency to deflect off centerline under load. To prevent this I made two bushings to go between the plate and the cross bar and this keeps the two pieces square and inline.
 

jtfx6552

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Originally posted by mm49
I had mine done. Pulling the blower snout off and disconnecting the hose ( not much IC fluid comes out if you suck the fluid out of the resivour first). Over to the Press Pulley off and Pulley on.

Entire process including refilling the Blower w/ Oil and the Test Drive was 1 hour & 15 mins. Techs just got to know what they are doing.

JL

How did they get that lower bolt past the water neck? To remove the water neck looked like a severe PIA (I think the accesories either had to, or may as well had to, come off to remove the IC water neck. On mine we had to unbolt and lift the blower. I would not recommend that, I only did that because the shop I was at was 2 hours from home and they were closing. So far my intake gaskets seem to be sealing fine. But I wish I used the tool method. Also, there is no way to get the exact amount of anerobic sealer on the blower snout that is required. It squishes out a little, which is easily cleaned up (on the outside), but obviously not on the inside. I am sure, if you removed the snout a second time you could tell it wasn't the factory seal job.

JT
 

FlashSVT

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Found a MUCH better puller design. I think it's also short enough to clear the water outlet on the left side.

http://www.pulleyboys.com/pp-pullertool.html

I tried the ASP puller i had from my Lightning and I didn't like the way it was lining up on the Cobra. The clearance below was not allowing the puller to stay flush.
 

toofast4u

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Originally posted by FlashSVT
Found a MUCH better puller design. I think it's also short enough to clear the water outlet on the left side.

http://www.pulleyboys.com/pp-pullertool.html

I tried the ASP puller i had from my Lightning and I didn't like the way it was lining up on the Cobra. The clearance below was not allowing the puller to stay flush.

I like how this pulley looks allot better then the ASP pulley, but has anybody used this yet?
 

JJ's SVT

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Originally posted by hpbyhermann
hey fast 03, give me a call at my shop, horsepower by hermann, i can have your pulley off and a new one on in 15 minutes, give me a call if i can help, i have much cobra and lightning experience........www.hbh.org in crofton maryland:)


Herman?? How the hell is it going dude?? This is JJ, I worked at the Amoco in Laurel with Timmy and had that 334 stroker Astro van.. I heard you had an accident some years ago and I am glad you came thru it :)

I own JJ'sSVT Performance and specialize in Lightnings. Let me know if you get some free time and we could hook up.

To everyone else;

If you have the proper tool, that fits correctly and you have wrenching experience, the right puller will work just fine, but if you have an older style tool that doesnt quite fit right, then you run into problems.

Pulling the snout off is easier than it seems. jtfx6552's was one of the first Cobra's that I did without using the tool. Loosening and lifting the blower up to clear the one lower bolt doesnt have any affect on the plate gasket, that gasket is very durable and steel imprgnated, so it wont/cant move out of place.

The reason why I suggest that you remove the snout is because in dealings with Lightnings over the years, I have answered my phone many times with people saying "the tool broke off in the snout" and "damn pulley is bent and broke", so I decided to no longer ship tools all over the country(somtimes they never made their way back to me) and just started to advice that they pull the snout and have it pressed off and the new one on, preferebly by a machine shop.

One more small thing that I found doing it this way is that 90 percent of the Eatons are overfilled from the factory.

Its all a matter of preference. I am positive that someone with Herman's experience has the right puller/tool and can do the job with absoulutley no problems. Herman is the man when it comes to mustangs and was modding mustangs back when I was putting a fogger nitrous system on a 81 plymouth champ, back in the day huh Herman? :):) Get in touch with me.. JJ@JJ's SVT
 

f4sfed

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Originally posted by Rwick7
fs fed....Let's meet up somewhere tomorrow so I can check it out....PLEASE

RWick7, you have mail. :) Actually, I sent it yesterday, but I didn't have time to give you a heads up. :shrug:
 

yellowz06killer

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Did not have a problem with mine at all. guy had mine back to me in a couple of hours. it took him no time to do mine. but i had no problem doing mine.
 

vcmoore

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Originally posted by Fast03Cobra
Then they realized they could not get that off without draining the intercooler coolant to remove a hose in the way.

We used a pair of long nosed vice grips (no teeth) to clamp the hose shut and then pulled it off. Sorta like kinking your water hose if you needed to remove your nozzle with water pressure on.
 

FlashSVT

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I like how this pulley looks allot better then the ASP pulley, but has anybody used this yet?
Yes, it does not fit! :bash:

Cutting about 1/2 inch off both side of the ASP puller worked fine. Pulley came right off.
 

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