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harsh5.0gt

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My parents are selling our '77 3/4 Ton Chevy, and '86 Prelude, and that money gets to be invested into my car. It seems my Mustang needs TLC asap! My parents' original plan was to sell those two cars, and my 5.0, in order to get me a better/newer car. I retaliated!! But since the original plan, I've fallen in love with my car all over again. Thoughts of selling were tempting, but I'm going to stick with it. We should gross around $1500 for both cars, so my 5.0 can get some work done to it.

EDIT: We just sold the truck for $800 so I'm ordering a MAC 2.5" Catback right now. Tomorrow I'm going to get my front end alligned and find 2 used tires to get me by for the rear. I'm still waiting on my new Fan, and still need to order a clutch. I'm also ordering a new rear main seal tomorrow. Sometime this week I'm taking the car into my Auto Tech class to get the rotors/drums turned, and replace the pads/shoes, and do the rear main seal.

When the prelude goes:
3:55's, Don't know what brand traction-lok
Door Handles
Touch Up Paint
Springs? Haven't picked out shocks yet..

The 5.0 has also become my Culminating Project (Its a new NSD Grad. Req.) :kaboom:

Wish my Mom and I good luck, she's going into surgery to remove more cancer, And I hope I don't f up my car in Auto Tech :pepper:
 
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stellar591

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I hope everything goes well with your mom. As for the car, I'd suggest a 3.73 or 4.10 gear rather than 3.55s. I also wouldn't spend money on a traction lock unless you plan to upgrade to 31 spline axles. Steeda or H&R would be the first place I'd look for springs. As for shocks, I run Lakewood 50/50s and love them. Good luck to you!
 

harsh5.0gt

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stellar591 said:
I hope everything goes well with your mom. As for the car, I'd suggest a 3.73 or 4.10 gear rather than 3.55s. I also wouldn't spend money on a traction lock unless you plan to upgrade to 31 spline axles. Steeda or H&R would be the first place I'd look for springs. As for shocks, I run Lakewood 50/50s and love them. Good luck to you!

Why would you recommend the 3:73's or 3:55's? I haven't done much resarch about them. And do I really have to upgrade? I'm just trying to keep both wheels moving at the same time lol

EDIT: AND I'M STILL DEBATING!!! Eibach, or any brand, drag springs? or lowering springs? I want long tubes, and was told lowering the car would make clearence issues
 
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harsh5.0gt

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i found an 8.8" rearend that's 5 lug disc w/posi and 3:55's. Looks cleaned and rotors look brand new. Don't know if it was off of an SN95 or had a swap out. I emailed the guy, and he said it was out of a car that blew the motor so the stripped the car. $350 I'm still asking away questions...
 
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SonicTerminator

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wow must be nice, i just got home from a ten hour shift, and 50 hours this week so far so i can buy that whipple, BAP, 60# injectors, SCT 2400 MAF, and dyno time. how old are you son?
 

stellar591

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SonicTerminator said:
wow must be nice, i just got home from a ten hour shift, and 50 hours this week so far so i can buy that whipple, BAP, 60# injectors, SCT 2400 MAF, and dyno time. how old are you son?

Well, your also dealing with much more expensive toys than this kid is. I'd say it must be nice to be able to afford a Terminator.

As for your question harsh5.0gt, a gear upgrade isn't going to help keep both wheels moving. Depending on the year of your car, you should have a limited slip differential in the rear. The gear upgrade is only going to help the car accelerate quicker. I recommend the 3.73 because they seem to be the best compromise between race performance and street comfort. One thing I did forget is that your dealing with a fox body and I believe most of those came equipped with 2.73s in the rear, so 3.55s is a nice jump for you. Whatever gear you choose, your going to feel quite a difference in the car. Most lowering springs (Eibach, Steeda, and others) are all made by the same company with different powder coating and a different box. Just make sure you buy from a reputable company. Also, longtubes do hang fairly low so clearance will become an issue. One solution for that is some aftermarket polyurethane spring isolators.
 

harsh5.0gt

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stellar591 said:
Well, your also dealing with much more expensive toys than this kid is. I'd say it must be nice to be able to afford a Terminator.

As for your question harsh5.0gt, a gear upgrade isn't going to help keep both wheels moving. Depending on the year of your car, you should have a limited slip differential in the rear. The gear upgrade is only going to help the car accelerate quicker. I recommend the 3.73 because they seem to be the best compromise between race performance and street comfort. One thing I did forget is that your dealing with a fox body and I believe most of those came equipped with 2.73s in the rear, so 3.55s is a nice jump for you. Whatever gear you choose, your going to feel quite a difference in the car. Most lowering springs (Eibach, Steeda, and others) are all made by the same company with different powder coating and a different box. Just make sure you buy from a reputable company. Also, longtubes do hang fairly low so clearance will become an issue. One solution for that is some aftermarket polyurethane spring isolators.

I already knew that gear swap has nothing to do with keeping both wheels moving. I'm also aware of the fact that it will just make my car quicker. Someone else told me that the 3:73's are a little better in performance and will get the same mpg as with the 3:55's at highway speed. I have a '91 5spd. No idea what stock gearings it came with. Since money is tight, I'm only going to be able to do bolt-ons until I'm back at work. I talked to my dad about that rearend I found and once he gets back from his trip, we might pick it up. I found out it was on an SN95 that blew its motor thanks to the owner who didn't believe in oil changes, so they parted it out. Can I use my existing brake lines to runs discs in the rear? I know I'll need a new master brake cylinder..

SonicTerminator I'm 16 and lovin' it :pepper:

As of now I have $247 left from selling our truck, and don't know what to get. Most likely find a used shifter and take my car to auto tech to turn the brakes..or should I order Drag Springs?? So many choices...I need more money!! Actually I just need to sell my prelude....anybody want it??? haha syke!
 
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SonicTerminator

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i was a little over 16 when i bought my 89 GT, with money my parents made me save from paper routes hollidays and what not...then as i had it i gradually bought stuff for it ended up building a nice 306 for it with gt-40 heads and trick flow intake...so in the teenage years its possible....my friend saved for 2 years before he got his 347 and PA C4...and yah my car may cost about ten times more but salary of a 23 year old is good well at least for me it is
 

90_red_lx

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SN95 axles are wider than fox width axles. Your back tires are going to do some sticking out.
 

stellar591

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90_red_lx said:
SN95 axles are wider than fox width axles. Your back tires are going to do some sticking out.

He's right. I would stick with a fox body rear end. Why not just use your existing housing? All you need are the gears and a master install kit. If it were me, I'd use the remaining funds to purchase a shifter. The difference is night and day.


I'm 23 as well, but salary of a military member is not so good. That's why I'm still in a 2V. No regrets though.
 

harsh5.0gt

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stellar591 said:
Why not just use your existing housing?

I could. I've been thinking a lot lately, BTW I got my catback on friday and is sounds wayy better. My old mufflers had holes and one pipe had a gash of where metal used to be lol. It was bad. But I want to focus on upgrading my driveline and suspension next. Any ideas to help me save some cash?
 

stellar591

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Subframe connectors are an excellent choice. They really tighten up the car without breaking the bank. I'm not sure if your looking for drag strip performance or a quick street mannered car but new shocks/struts would help out a lot too. Another cheap option is to replace all the worn out rubber bushings with new polyurethane ones. It'll feel like a new car.
 

SonicTerminator

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if i remember right, drivers side (if not drivers than passenger) axles from rangers are the same length as fox mustangs. also ranger drums will fit too. and for the front get late '80's lincoln mark 8 front rotors. or do what i did when i had mine i got the ranger axles, made a trip to the junk yard, and i got the rear calipers and brackets, and i also grabbed the entire front knuckle assy. off the car. the fronts east just swap knuckles and bleed the brakes and your good to go.
 

harsh5.0gt

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stellar591 said:
Subframe connectors are an excellent choice. They really tighten up the car without breaking the bank. I'm not sure if your looking for drag strip performance or a quick street mannered car but new shocks/struts would help out a lot too. Another cheap option is to replace all the worn out rubber bushings with new polyurethane ones. It'll feel like a new car.

I'm deffinatly all about the 1/4 mile now. But its also fun to take the turns too
 

83 5oh

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I have an 86 ssp coupe.....i have bbk longtubes and h with spintech pro street mufflers....i dropped my car about 2 inches although it seems more like 3...i have no problems with clearance just take the speedbumps waaaayyy slower and at a slight angle....all i did was cut 1 1/4 coils off all springs. and that dropped my car...money is tight right now and i was tired of being asked to go offroading...lol..although cutting your springs is somewhat frowned upon, it gets the job done for the time being...just make sure your rear tires won't rub, if you think they might just roll the inner lip of the fender.

edit: i also run lakewood 50/50 shocks out back and 70/30 struts up front...it's what i bought the car with.
 
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