Procharger new to me but not to the car - a few questions

baldguy

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so, I have my first blown mustang (though it's my 7th mustang in the past 20 years and my 3rd SN95 cobra). this one is a 98 cobra with 53k miles as of today. I bought it this way, and to my eye, everything was very well done. This car was a rich-boy-toy for the first 17 years of its life and with it I got meticulous service records. What I didn't get is information on when the procharger was installed and by whom. That said, it does look like a very well-done job:

4NhNpZO.jpg


anyway, since I didn't install it and I know less about it than I'd like, I'm hoping you fine folks can help me out a bit.

First, I'm noticing some squeaking when the engine is cold. it sounds like a pulley bearing or something, and I've found a few threads here and elsewhere that mention using a better tensioner to solve the issue. I've also seen some people say that simply switching to a gatorback belt will do the trick. What is the prevailing wisdom here? Should I be concerned that the situation will get worse if I continue to drive it like this?

Second, I've been told that coolant loss is a fact of life with a blower. The water level does drop a bit over time. There has been some mild coolant smell, though I can't find a leak. I assume the loss is happening via the overflow tube, but is it simply a matter of keeping the thing topped off? Should I be looking harder for a leak?

one more thing (for now) - how often should I service the blower? The previous owner gave me a package of oil change kits for it, and said that he did it recently. I'd still like to check that, though - aside from the obvious signs of oil degradation, what else can I look for in the oil and/or the blower? I want it to last for many years :)

thanks!
 

01yellercobra

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What belt does it have? I ran the Gates green belts and they would squeak until everything warmed up. Then all was quiet. The easy way to check pullies is to remove the belt and spin each one by hand. They should be smooth. If they feel "crunchy" the bearing is bad and should be replaced.

You shouldn't be using any coolant. It's not a fact of life. Try replacing the radiator cap first. It might be worn out.

IIRC Procharger has a 6000 mile interval for the oil change. I change my engine oil at 5000 so I just changed the blower oil while I was under there. The biggest thing is to keep an eye on the level. Seals are known for going bad with these blowers.
 

Noreiga

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You shouldn't be losing water. I daily drove my procharged car for 30k+ miles and never had any issues like that at all. I'd definitely try to find the source of the problem so you know it's nothing serious. As for the oil changes I was doing my engine oil around 3000 and then headunit oil every other oil change.
 

baldguy

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awesome, thanks for the info guys. The water issue I'm not completely freaking out about. it's not a lot of water being lost but I will address it as soon as I find some time. in the meantime I can just keep an eye (and nose!) on it.

as for the belt/pulleys... I'm not sure what belt is on there. I can check later today. Is the removal procedure the same as a N/A version? It seems like it would be but I also read that you have to remove the headunit to remove the belt. that doesn't make sense, but it has been said.
 

01yellercobra

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awesome, thanks for the info guys. The water issue I'm not completely freaking out about. it's not a lot of water being lost but I will address it as soon as I find some time. in the meantime I can just keep an eye (and nose!) on it.

as for the belt/pulleys... I'm not sure what belt is on there. I can check later today. Is the removal procedure the same as a N/A version? It seems like it would be but I also read that you have to remove the headunit to remove the belt. that doesn't make sense, but it has been said.

On mine I had to remove the head unit in order to get the belt off. It was the way the belt was routed around the pullies. Mine was an 01 though. You should be able to access the tensioner and slide the belt off the pullies without removing the head unit. You should be able to reach the pullies that way.
 

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