PPRV Delete vs Fore Fuel Hat

[gx00850]

Alright,

I seem to be having a common problem. I recently installed a whipple 2.3 with all supporting mods. I had Rick do the tune and the car runs great with the exception of shifts. Between shifts the car dies...feels like the traction control engages. I know that's not it because Rick turned that off for good. Anyway, it looks like a common fix for this problem is a PPRV delete kit or a Fore Fuel Hat. My question is what does the Fuel hat do for me that the PPRV delete will not. I want this problem gone and I want the best fix available. So is the Fore Fuel hat a better fix and if so how. Thanks for the feedback guys.

 

[Cobreezy]

I'm on the same boat as you. :fm: I've been doing my homework and have found some drawbacks to the PPRV delete (i.e. hard cold starts). I also hear that the Gates tubing doesn't hold so whell when submeresed in fuel for a long period of time. I remember someone saying that kevlar tubing works the best. Anybody know of this method? So i would like to ask the same question as gx00850. Any feedback is greatly appreciated and well noted.

 

[Travizzle]

I've deleted my PPRV, but now as time goes on i have decided to buy the fuel hat. Once you do the delete its a big mess of hose which makes it a pain in the ass to get back into the tank. The fuel hat gets rid of all the hose and the "Y" fitting, because the "Y" is built into the hat. You also have the confidence knowing that the fuel pumps are seated well and less likely having a hose pop off.

 

[Qwk GT]

stupid question, but what do these hats do? Is it to clear up some of the wiring?

 

[04CobraMatt]

PPRV and longer starting time is a myth. Honestly iv'e had it gone about a year now and iv'e never had a problem starting it. Even sitting for 2-3 days at a time it fires up instantly on the first try. Its one of the best "mods" you can do on this car, highly modified or not.

 

[Travizzle]

Myth??? Strange because it didn't happen until i deleted mine.:shrug:

 

[wy3134]

alright heres my first hand experience. if your gonna upgrade the pumps, or do the pprv delete, your better off to not waste the money on the pprv delete kit, because it will cause problems with routing the hose from the pumps to the connection on the hat. i just blew a hole through the hose right at the connection, because of how the connection is angled down and right into the piece that comes down to hold the pumps. not to mention the fact that running the upgraded fuel line is a pain in the ass because theres little room to work with on the stock hat.

with that said, i just purchased the fore fuel hat (single -8an style) and installed it yesterday. EMPTY YOUR TANK BEFORE DROPPING IT, makes it so much easier. i did the install in my garage by just putting the car on jack stands. if you have a lift it will go quicker

the fore fuel hat as stated above, routes the pumps straight into the hat with maybe 3" of straight sae 30r10 submersible fuel line connecting the pumps to the hat. theres no issues with wiring or anything, its all straight bolt up and connect.

i really regret buying the gt pumps with the pprv delete kit cause that stuff is still sitting in my room being useless.

also remember if your not upgrading the fuel line, then you will need the adaptor hose, which is like $70 (luckily i found one for $40 from a local guy) but it will straight connect with no issues to the fuel filter.

if you have any questions feel free to send me a message and ill be happy to share any info you may need.

 

[04cobra13]

pprv delete here also with no problems other than a lil longer to start...but no more hesitation between shifts ftw!

 

[wy3134]

as for the pprv delete and changes to how the car starts, if you just turn your key to on, but dont start it for a second, to allow the pumps to build pressure in the fuel line, then there shouldnt be any issue with the car not firing right away. i usually just hop right in though and fire away with no issues, although it might take a couple more seconds, but its something im use to now, and its well worth the rougher start, to not worry about hesitation during shifts, especially at WOT

 

[joemayo]

I say just use the Gates line from the Y to the top of the Hat.. Keep the plastic lines from the pumps to the Y. And use black ties to hold the new line snug against the hat so it's not in the way. I always turn the key on the ON position one time before I start the car. Haven't had a problem with mine. With a 40ampBap and line upgrade you can do 650whp in these cars.

 

[SVTkel]

Interesting. subscribing.

 

[Travizzle]

Use the factory "Y". It seems to be a more rigid piece than the one that comes with the kit. I speak from experience, i had one of the hoses blow off during normal driving. Hasn't happened since i replaced it with the factory piece.

 

[Avenger]

Any of you guys that have deleted the PPRV could provide a datalog showing pressure drop across injectors when going from 3rd to 4th gear at WOT ? I'm not experiencing that hesitation but noticed the pressure swings from 40psi to 70psi to 10psi before going back to 40psi. This obviously causes a lean Air / Fuel spike each time I change gear.

I'm getting tired of this crap and I'm about to order a return style fuel system. Would be nice if the PPRV solved that low pressure dip. A datalog would be greatly appreciated !!

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

Some people seem to have more trouble with starts after the PPRV delete than others, I myself noticed no difference. Regardless turn the key forward once wait a sec, then turn the key back off and on again wait another sec then start should resolve it if the car's been sitting a while.

 

[gx00850]

Seems to be a good topic. What does the fuel hat do that the PPRV Delete does not. It sounds like not a lot, other than easier to install.

My pressure fluctuates from around 38 down to 25 between shifts. I want this to go away for good, but I'm not sure what the best route to go or if this will even fix the problem.

 

[joemayo]

Seems to be a good topic. What does the fuel hat do that the PPRV Delete does not. It sounds like not a lot, other than easier to install.

My pressure fluctuates from around 38 down to 25 between shifts. I want this to go away for good, but I'm not sure what the best route to go or if this will even fix the problem.

Fuel hat is 400bucks.. Plus you need to buy the GT pumps to fit with it. Then if you want to keep the stock line you need to buy the 80dollar adapter line. If your upgrading your fuel system for 700+whp then it's not a bad idea.

Or pull out stock fuel hat go to O'rielly's get 1Ft gates line cut off about a inch (so it fits snug) get some hose clamps and some black zip ties and install. No more hesitation during shifts! for only ehhhh 25bucks.

 

[wy3134]

^you need the gates 30r10 submersible fuel line... ive already tried the 30r9 and it was starting to give in less than a month. i believe the 30r10 is close to 17-18$ a foot if i remember correctly

not all auto parts stores will have the 30r10, so you will have to check around

 

[joemayo]

Sorry forgot to add "submersible" line.. It's $21 Ft at O'riellys

 

[gx00850]

Fuel hat is 400bucks.. Plus you need to buy the GT pumps to fit with it. Then if you want to keep the stock line you need to buy the 80dollar adapter line. If your upgrading your fuel system for 700+whp then it's not a bad idea.

Or pull out stock fuel hat go to O'rielly's get 1Ft gates line cut off about a inch (so it fits snug) get some hose clamps and some black zip ties and install. No more hesitation during shifts! for only ehhhh 25bucks.

Yea, that is was I was thinking also. I already have the GT pumps and I only run around 540 rwhp so I do not plan on changing the fuel lines. I'll look around for the hose and go that route unless someone here can convince me otherwise. Thanks for the all the helpful input.

 

[wy3134]

what sold me to buy the fuel hat, was not having to worry about blowing a hole in the fuel line with how it connects to the fuel hat, cause of how tight that bend is, it literally crimps the hose due to the hose being so thick and rigid, it seemed to just want to kink instead of gradually bend. i like the fact also of having less fuel line for fuel to travel in... if its a straight connection, like the fuel hat is, then its less likely to ever have an issue with the intank fuel line period.

my point is, id rather spend the money to not have to worry about dropping the tank to pull the fuel hat again, except for if a pump fails, cause i highly doubt the 2" of fuel line connecting the pumps to the hat will be much of an issue

i would say though to wait until you can upgrade the entire fuel system, or piece it together when u can afford to, but dont install it till you have it all, so you dont have to buy the adaptors. only reason i did was cause i found the hat to line adaptor barely used for half the msrp.

i run right at 600rwhp, but also plan on bumping that big time next summer once i get the fuel lines/rails upgraded and get some race fuel for a race tune

ON A SIDE NOTE: the same guy who i bought the hat to line adaptor from, showed me a very suprising detail about the fuel line. he upgraded to a return style fuel system, and is running -8an line. he showed me an extra section of -8an line, and then proceeded to show me how small the stock fuel lines are, that they are so small they will fit right into that -8an line with no problem. just a tidbit that really shocked me/kinda scared me with the power level im at, and wanting to go to