Potential weak links left

[shelbysnake11]

Hey guys

I have a 2008 gt500 that I would like to do some 1/8th mile drag racing with this upcoming year. I have some modifications (listed below) and I was wondering if anybody has any good advice on what could potentially break while drag racing.

Mod/performance list

Car dynoed at 525hp and 495ftlbs on a dynojet
JLT 123mm intake
JLT tune
Leathal performance Catless x
Pypes violator axle backs
Barton shifter
UPR upper control arm
UPR upper control arm mount
UPR spherical bushing for upper control arm (rear end bushing)
UPR lower control arms
UPR panhard bar
UPR lower control arm brackets
Viking crusader rear shocks
Ebach pro kit springs
Maximum motorsports CC plates
JMS swaybar relocation kit
JMS avenger wheels 17x4 15x10
Mickey Thompson 28x10.5x15 slicks

This whole set up will be brand new this season and my main goal and concern is not to break anything. I understand that no car is completely bullet proof but I don't want to over look any know weak links.

Iv been looking into moser axles, ford racing rear end cover/girdle, and carbon fiber driveshaft. I would love to do the TOB 13-14 driveshaft conversion but I have talked with both of the manufacturers of the adaptor needed for the swap and both say they will only make more adaptors if they have 5 or more people to buy one so at this time that is unfortunately not an option. So the next best choice would be a driveshaft shop shaft. Which I called DSS today and did not get very much help. stayed on hold for 25 min only to get we have a aluminum or carbon fiber shaft for your mustang and that was it. Gee thanks.

Is there anything else that could pose an issue with this set up? The car has 8100 miles on it and is stock other than the modifications listed above.

Thanks in advance

Picture of my car before mods

Dyno sheet before and after intake/tune

Suspension


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[gtbite98]

Your clutch won't last long. Ah!! the drive shaft, it might make it but the rear diff
limited slip might not.

 

[shelbysnake11]

Your clutch won't last long. Ah!! the drive shaft, it might make it but the rear diff
limited slip might not.

Thanks gtbite98 I didn't even think about the diff. I didn't know how much power it would hold. The clutch is going to be questionable. I should probably replace it also.


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[stsltd]

Agree on clutch and you may want to plan on cooling upgrade -

 

[brian98svtsnake]

At your power levels you should be alright. Plenty of guys making 700+ and on stock diff. Only 1/8 mile I think your good to go.

 

[shelbysnake11]

At your power levels you should be alright. Plenty of guys making 700+ and on stock diff. Only 1/8 mile I think your good to go.

Awesome, thanks for the input


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[JB_2010GT500]

Looks pretty good. I would add a 1 piece driveshaft and weld the axle tubes. Diff is probably fine. I upgraded mine anyways and did c clip eliminators to be safe.

 

[RedVenom48]

After repeated launches those polynurehane LCA bushing will probably not last long. I blew out multiple sets of BMR poly urethane bushings. Took awhile but i eventually replaced my LCAs to adjustable rod end BMRs, and the upper is their new rod end adjustable. Some food for thought to have a few bushing spares handy.

Im running a Driveshaft Shop aluminum DS and i love it. I especially love the rear CV joint. Makes pinion angle essentially moot, though i do have it set up close. Aluminum or CF you cant go wrong, but i still rec aluminum.

Id recommend a 2.5" pulley and tune from Lund Racing. You are definitely leaving power on the table. Youll need a set if colder spark plugs as well with the added boost. I run and highly recommend NGK TR7ix plugs. Very tough and consistant plug.

I drag raced on my stock clutch for over a year and a half. So long as you dont try and slip launch all time it should last for a bit.

It would also be some REALLY good insurance to have and install a rear axle brace such as a Swarr Bar or CHE brace. With the LCA brackets, i know the swarr bar will need to modified, but the CHE brace may not need it. I literally bent the flang on my drivers rear axle from a hard launch. I absolutely believe that had i not had my brace installed, i would have trashed my housing.

 

[shelbysnake11]

Looks pretty good. I would add a 1 piece driveshaft and weld the axle tubes. Diff is probably fine. I upgraded mine anyways and did c clip eliminators to be safe.

Thanks JB_2010GT500


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[shelbysnake11]

After repeated launches those polynurehane LCA bushing will probably not last long. I blew out multiple sets of BMR poly urethane bushings. Took awhile but i eventually replaced my LCAs to adjustable rod end BMRs, and the upper is their new rod end adjustable. Some food for thought to have a few bushing spares handy.

Im running a Driveshaft Shop aluminum DS and i love it. I especially love the rear CV joint. Makes pinion angle essentially moot, though i do have it set up close. Aluminum or CF you cant go wrong, but i still rec aluminum.

Id recommend a 2.5" pulley and tune from Lund Racing. You are definitely leaving power on the table. Youll need a set if colder spark plugs as well with the added boost. I run and highly recommend NGK TR7ix plugs. Very tough and consistant plug.

I drag raced on my stock clutch for over a year and a half. So long as you dont try and slip launch all time it should last for a bit.

It would also be some REALLY good insurance to have and install a rear axle brace such as a Swarr Bar or CHE brace. With the LCA brackets, i know the swarr bar will need to modified, but the CHE brace may not need it. I literally bent the flang on my drivers rear axle from a hard launch. I absolutely believe that had i not had my brace installed, i would have trashed my housing.

I will definitely order a couple extra bushings.

As for the driveshaft why aluminum over CF?

I have been looking into a smaller upper and possibly a 10% lower pulley, I just wanted to get the suspension down before I added any extra power.

I have never head of the brace for the axle. I will be checking into it. I'm new to the s197 platform. Iv had several sn95s so that's why I have been reading the forums and asking some questions.

Thanks for the input. I appreciate any advice.


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[RedVenom48]

CF v aluminum is a debate thats been a hot topicn around here. Both are strong, but i prefer aluminum... and the money it saves over CF.

As far as the pulley, id just stick with the 2.5" upper. The stock blower becomes inefficient when sped up with a lower pulley.

Youll also want to consider a triple pass heat exchanger and 3x reservoir. The stock intercooler system isnt near up to snuff as it should have been. But, its transformed with the upgraded heat exchanger.

 

[shelbysnake11]

CF v aluminum is a debate thats been a hot topicn around here. Both are strong, but i prefer aluminum... and the money it saves over CF.

As far as the pulley, id just stick with the 2.5" upper. The stock blower becomes inefficient when sped up with a lower pulley.

Youll also want to consider a triple pass heat exchanger and 3x reservoir. The stock intercooler system isnt near up to snuff as it should have been. But, its transformed with the upgraded heat exchanger.

Yes the aluminum does save a considerable amount of money over CF. Around $400 to be exact from what I have been pricing

And the 2.5 would push the boost to 12-13lbs? it was 8 stock and now I see 10-11 with the intake /tune according to the stock gauge)

Is there any advantage to the twin fan triple pass heat exchanger with my power levels? It isn't much more money but I didn't know if it would be over kill.


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[brian98svtsnake]

Can never have too much cooling, these blowers get hot regardless of your power level. I'm happy with my Afco dual fan but I bet C&R gets better reviews. I bought my Afco from a member here, it was new and I saved a lot of money so that's why I chose Afco. Whatever you get will help a lot. I also have an Moroso reservoir that I add ice to at the track. Before a pass I fill with ice, after the pass I drain a little water/coolant out to make room for more ice. If you get cold winters remember to add some coolant cause after a while your going to have mostly water and you wouldn't want it to freeze.

 

[RedVenom48]

Dual fan Heat Exchangers work and work well. They definitely help keep boost temps in check and make multiple passes at the track possible. The computer will pull engine timing if it sees discharge temps too high. A triple pass dual fan HE will really make a big difference. Add a 3x reservoir and your really talking some serious cooling.

 

[shelbysnake11]

Thanks brian98svtsnake and lexustech48 I will definitely add that to the must have mod list.


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