Poorboy Pruducts

S04T

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Hey guys I needed some advice on some wax/sealant questions that I have. I have heard really good things about the Poorboy products and I was hoping to get some advice on what products I need and what order (by hand/orbital)they need to be applied in for best results. Wax/sealants/glaze is there a diference, and what is the best for a lighter colored car? The car is a 04 Silver Metallic/24k miles that is garaged under a cover. It has been maintained on a regular basis with Meguires products. Thanks for any advice guys! :beer:
 

BlownTBird

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Hey guys I needed some advice on some wax/sealant questions that I have. I have heard really good things about the Poorboy products and I was hoping to get some advice on what products I need and what order (by hand/orbital)they need to be applied in for best results. Wax/sealants/glaze is there a diference, and what is the best for a lighter colored car? The car is a 04 Silver Metallic/24k miles that is garaged under a cover. It has been maintained on a regular basis with Meguires products. Thanks for any advice guys! :beer:

I've recently purchased a bunch of Poor Boy's products this spring and have been really impressed with them. Even by hand, the Pro Polish 2 was able to remove rust stains, lighter scratches, blemishes etc etc. I used Nattys red paste wax on my silver SVT Focus and have no complaints, application by hand was easy on/easy off and the car shines damn well for a silver car. If you're not machine polishing you should probably be fine with just a good wax as your final step.

Somewhat unrelated but I also purchased their 32oz car wash concentrate, all purpose cleaner, and vinyl/rubber/plastic/tire shine (or whatever they call it). The APC when diluted properly can clean essentially your entire interior and does a damn good job. Car wash concentrate was relatively cheap and seems very concentrated (long lasting). Tire shine has a very natural look, doesn't leave streaks and has also worked good for any outside rubber/vinyl on my cars (haven't tried this on the interior).

Good luck!
 

Tlightning

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I use Poorboy's quite often, actually good friends with Steve aka Poorboy. What I have been using after I wash and clay is Pro Polish or Pro Polish 2 if bad with a black pad on my Porter Cable (or by hand if you don't have a machine). Their Super Swirl Removers work very well also. After that I usually apply Black Hole Glaze or White Diamond for lighter colors. I then top that with Natty's a couple two or three times. Sometimes I will use the EX-P sealant before the glaze. All of the Poorboy's line is really good. I haven't found anything that I haven't liked. The Natural Look is awesome for interior trim as well. Also, trim restorer for all your exterior plastics and they will look amazing... and smell good!!
 

BreBar21

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I've been using Poorboy's stuff for years. Great brand and products. I've tried a bunch of sealants and waxes over the years and EX-P is hands down my favorite on my white car. 2-3 layers of that after polishing and the car looks amazing. I'd get a bottle and give it a try on your silver car. I think you'll be happy with the results.
 

S04T

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Really appreciate the heads up guys! I have heard nothing but good things about the Poorboy products, really excited to see how well they work! So all you lighter color guys, what products specifically do you use and in what order?
 

mblgjr

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Wash: SuperSlick N Suds is nice; the SS n Wax is good too

Quick Detailer: Spray and Wipe

Tire Dressing: Bold N Brite

Polishes: SSR2.5 and SSR1

Use Lake Country 5.5" orange pad w/ 2.5; follow with SSR 1/white.

If applying by a Porter Cable, once the product is spread, turn it up to 6 and work it until the product disappears. The SSR's do dust a bit and get more dusty as you work them. Dust should be somewhat minimal. If you have a LOT of dusting, you're using too much product.

Wash
Clay
2.5/orange
1/white

Glaze if you want (unless using EXP, then don't glaze) Apply glaze w/blue pad PC speed 3 until it disappears into the surface.

Natty's Blue or Red paste (red preferred); use EX or EXP for lighter metallics.

2.5 will handle most common wash-induced swirls and works pretty quickly.

Natty's Red paste was my favorite. I never liked EX or EXP because the durability kinda stinks. Everything bonded/etched/stained the surface when I used EXP.

The above mentioned products are the ones worth having to start with. Everything else there's a lot of other alternatives.

I'd use Clearcote Vanilla Moose or Red Machine Glaze over either of the PB glazes.

Trim restorer is "meh"; but makes a heck of a great tire shine (Chem Guys Extreme shine is about the same product)

Leather Stuff is so-so. Smells ok, but doesn't do much for actually conditioning the leather (Leatherique/Leathermasters works).

Natural Look is one of those hit/miss products, but it's really great when you need it. Like small, interior rubber pieces like cupholder inserts. It does work well on interior panels, but Optimum Protectant or 303 Aerospace are better. I'm not fond of the strong cherry smell of NL.

ProPolish 2 kind of on par with Klasse AIO. Klasse AIO is pretty much the standard to beat in that category though.

Polish w/Carn. Blue is excellent on older single stage paints that are soft.
 
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S04T

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WOW! Great info, thank you very much! One last question and I will leave you guys alone. Can these products be applied by hand or do I need to invest in nice Porter Cable? Looks like I have got at lease one solid weekend ahead of me!
 

TransAxle

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I've been using Poorboy's stuff for years. Great brand and products. I've tried a bunch of sealants and waxes over the years and EX-P is hands down my favorite on my white car. 2-3 layers of that after polishing and the car looks amazing. I'd get a bottle and give it a try on your silver car. I think you'll be happy with the results.

This. I use EX-P as well. Its an easy to use sealant that looked great on all colors. That's about all I use from Poorboys. They are more or less geared towards the weekend warrior retailers.
 

mustangvsix

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I love poorboys. Been using the SSR 1 and 2.5 with Blackhole Glaze, EX-P sealant and Natty Blue paste wax. Makes the True blue look dripping wet and gorgeous. Easy products to use as well.

Also like the naturals stuff for the interior wipe down. Cleans, repels dust and doesn't shine the dash like armor all or leave that greasy residue.
 

TransAxle

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I love poorboys. Been using the SSR 1 and 2.5 with Blackhole Glaze, EX-P sealant and Natty Blue paste wax. Makes the True blue look dripping wet and gorgeous. Easy products to use as well.

Also like the naturals stuff for the interior wipe down. Cleans, repels dust and doesn't shine the dash like armor all or leave that greasy residue.

One thing to note about the Blackhole Glaze is that it is a glaze and one of the best glazes on the market. For those that don't know glazes have heavy fillers in them meant to fill in light scratches, swirls and imperfections. Works like adamants and waxes just adds the ability to cover things while leaving a good look.
 

nckissfan

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WOW! Great info, thank you very much! One last question and I will leave you guys alone. Can these products be applied by hand or do I need to invest in nice Porter Cable? Looks like I have got at lease one solid weekend ahead of me!

they can be applied by hand. This is what I did, until I got a Porter Cable.
 

S04T

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You guys are thes best, tons of great advice in here! I just order a Porter Cable and a bunch of Porrboy products, cant wait to give everything a try. The paint on car is in good shape and I ordered the SSR 2.5 and SSR 1. Is the 2.5 overkill if my paint is in good shape already, is it too aggressive if there aren't significant scrathes? I've never really used these types of products and just want to make sure I don't end up making a mistake...
 

BreBar21

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Even if your paint is in good shape, you surely have some swirls just from washing it. SSR 2.5 should do a good job of attacking those swirls. It finishes down really well, so you might be able to skip SSR 1 all together and go straight to your LSP. Also, be prepared for dusting as the polish breaks down!

Did you order any sealants or waxes?
 

S04T

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Ok, good to know. I also ordered the White Diamond glaze and the Natty's red. I hate to say it but a small portion of the car was repainted about 8 months ago, am I still safe to use the 2.5 and 1 on this area?
 

PistolWhip

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What damage is already done is done and the above posts have given you the answers you need. I'm also a huge PoorBoys fan and agree with most of the above comments.

Just some friendly advice for the future though; you do not HAVE to have swirl marks from washing. If you use a two bucket approach and get yourself a good grout sponge and a grit guard for the bottom of your rinse bucket you'll be amazed at how much better your car looks after a wash and how little polishing and compounding you'll have to do to correct swirls and micro-marring. A good detail always starts with the wash and washing correctly can take a lot of time and effort out of your regular weekly care and maintenance.
Every time you polish or compound your paint, your removing a layer of clear coat. No matter how miniscule that layer is, eventually you run out of correction ability and once that happens your finish will quickly go to hell in a hand basket. :thumbsup:
 

PistolWhip

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Ok, good to know. I also ordered the White Diamond glaze and the Natty's red. I hate to say it but a small portion of the car was repainted about 8 months ago, am I still safe to use the 2.5 and 1 on this area?

I just noticed this question. I'd highly recommend asking the body shop that painted it what they're recommendation is on compounding or polishing paint that's somewhat new. Sometimes different clears take a little longer to fully harden and polishing can cause more harm than good. I'm not really a paint pro so I'm not sure how true it is, but I've been told by a buddy that owns a body shop, that some clears can take up to a full year before they recommend any kind of polish or compound.

Glazes are basically fillers, a detailers band-aid if you will, so keep that in mind when the same swirls and scratches you thought you fixed, pop back up after a wash or two. There's nothing wrong with using a glaze to cover up some marring or swirls if you in a pinch or preparing for a show and want every last mark gone, but it's not a product you want to use as a repair. The 2.5 and 1 polishes should handle most minor corrections though, so you should be good to go with them.
Natty's Red is good stuff and gets great reviews as an all purpose finishing product (your protection coat), but every finishing product will look only as good as the prep that goes into its application. As a personal rule; I like carnauba's on basic solid finishes like white and red, but nothing pops on a dark metallic finish like a good sealant. The candy hard look really makes metallic pop.:coolman:
 

MachME

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poorboy's is good. The ssr line is not strong enough for clear coats.
 

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