Poll: daily driver v8 rwd manual

Which manual trans v8 4dr sedan would you enjoy driving everyday the most?

  • 2014 Chevy SS sedan manual 430hp v8 M6

    Votes: 16 22.9%
  • 2012/13 CTS-V sedan 556hp M6

    Votes: 37 52.9%
  • 2008/9 Pontiac g8 415hp M6

    Votes: 3 4.3%
  • 2006 Gen 1 CTS-V 400hp M6

    Votes: 3 4.3%
  • 2002 BMW M5 400hp M6

    Votes: 4 5.7%
  • 2007-10 Audi RS4 420hp v8 M6

    Votes: 3 4.3%
  • Something else (please share below)

    Votes: 5 7.1%
  • E92/94 M3 sedan 414hp M6

    Votes: 5 7.1%

  • Total voters
    70
  • Poll closed .

Silverstrike

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G8 GXP and SS are too "rare" and fixing and or mods may be more skimp. I fell out of owning a limited production car when I owned my 04 GTO only made for 3 years.

Same chassie as the 10-15 Camaro except for being 3 inches longer, almost everything a Camaro SS can have with a LS-3 can be bought for the SS, except for intakes since the SS uses a single piece plastic MAF housing over just a plug in for the Camaro. Hell with spacers and adapters you can have a complete rear brake, rims, and tires off of a Camaro ZL-1 or SS for the 4 door. And a few SS owners have went down this route. There is nothing that exotic or rare when it comes from the hardware and systems between the two.
 

delvin.a

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And those BMW options will be any better for repair costs? LOL

With places like FCPEuro the cost of maintaining an older BMW is not an issue and they lifetime warranty everything (even oil). Most of the BMW branded parts can be found with no BMW logo under the actual manufacturers name for much less.
 

offroadkarter

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With places like FCPEuro the cost of maintaining an older BMW is not an issue and they lifetime warranty everything (even oil). Most of the BMW branded parts can be found with no BMW logo under the actual manufacturers name for much less.

Yeah its not really that big of a deal if you do it yourself. The high cost of maintenance comes when you go to the dealer for every job.

Hell my 20 year old M5 has honestly given me less problems than my 16 Mustang which I bought new.
 

9397SVTs

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Everything.

These cars have bushing problems that aren't cheap to fix. Replacement bushings are rarely, if ever in stock and you're required to buy the entire control arm as factory bushings are not able to be pressed in.....easily, if at all. I ruined 3 bushings and finally gave in and bought an entire arm. Mine went out at 5k miles. The labor to replace the fronts is insane. The rear bushings require back halfing the entire car. Luckily mine haven't gone bad.

Shocks and struts are expensive on that car. The wagon requires disassembling the entire interior from the font seats back. Literally every interior trim piece has to come out to access the shock towers. IIRC that's a 10 hour job just for the rears. The fronts weren't that bad but the struts themselves are expensive ($400......EACH).

Right now I have a fuel leak because GM's engineers are all ****ing retards. It's a 90 degree elbow made of plastic and broke at 30k miles. The dealer needs to drop the entire carrier and suspension to access it. The fuel basket/pump assembly is $400. The dealer want's something stupid like 3 grand in labor to fix it. I'll be cutting an access panel/hole in the rear floor pan with sheers to save time and money.

I'm having alignment issues in my car and as such have bought a new set of fronts every year for 5 years. As you can imagine tires on this car aren't cheap.

The brakes on this car are stupid expensive. I don't complain because that's the price of big huge 6 piston Brembos but still....for a daily driver that's expensive. Pads are $250 for each side on the fronts, and $70 each side on the rears. That's a total of $640 for pads. Sure there are other companies that make aftermarket stuff but the aftermarket for this cars isn't like that of the Mustang. Front rotors are $200-300 each. The aftermarket ones SUCK. They're terrible. I went with the most trusted aftermarket brakes and the squeal like race brakes. The fact is that the factory parts are the best option by a country mile.

I just did my taxes last Wednesday and I spent $4,000 in parts alone. Labor for what I did to the car as routine maintenance at $80k miles would have totaled another 10 grand.

Don't get me wrong. I love this car. I really do, it's amazing but two things can be true at once; the car is amazing and GM engineers are ****ing retards and parts are impossible to find, even factory parts. Many factory parts have national backorders or have been discontinued. Nothing is easy to fix and nothing is engineered well. They're a great modding platform but the aftermarket is really limited and OEM parts can be scarce.

The Germans aren't any better with cost and maintenance. I'm sure their part availability is better though. You're going to run into the same problem with the SS and G8 now that they're out of production.

That being said, I blew the doors off a GT350 last night with a table saw in the back so it's kinda worth it

I'm at a little over 31k and haven't had a problem with my 2014 sedan. (lucky me, I guess)

Aside from the disassembly of the interior on the wagon, if in fact correct, nothing else seems ridiculous. Maybe it's just me, but when you buy a low-mid $70k, low volume performance vehicle, it's reasonable to expect a high cost of ownership.

Suspension bushings, brakes, shocks/struts, tires are all wear items. On a capable, yet heavy car, these will wear more frequently.

There's always a cost of doing business. Adding exclusivity doesn't help.
 
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tt335ci03cobra

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Fun toys aren’t cheap to own and operate...

Considering it costs at a shop or dealer about $1500 a year to keep a 20 year old pickup on the road, it’s not unrealistic to assume a $75k (new) 2014 car will probably eat $2500-5000 of repair at a shop or dealership every year.

ive done “$1500” ball joint/tie rod/sway bar on my 20 year old work truck (just fully refresh the front suspension left/rt/inners/outters/uppers/lowers et for $400 tools, parts and all and included the materials for a tune up.

I’m anticipating quite a bit of projects with a ctsv when I get it, that’s honestly why I like these kind of cars, it adds to ownership to wrench on them cleanly and keep them on the road when others would just waste, abuse, and dumpster heap them over the next 10 years.



When you talk to someone with a pristine, clean 1990 Taurus sho or 1989 Saleen mustang or 1993 cobra R or 1999 Saleen s351 who didn’t just buy the car, but has had it for 20 years and keeps it up as a passion, it’s refreshing
 

jmsa540

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Sell it.
Everything.

These cars have bushing problems that aren't cheap to fix. Replacement bushings are rarely, if ever in stock and you're required to buy the entire control arm as factory bushings are not able to be pressed in.....easily, if at all. I ruined 3 bushings and finally gave in and bought an entire arm. Mine went out at 5k miles. The labor to replace the fronts is insane. The rear bushings require back halfing the entire car. Luckily mine haven't gone bad.

Shocks and struts are expensive on that car. The wagon requires disassembling the entire interior from the font seats back. Literally every interior trim piece has to come out to access the shock towers. IIRC that's a 10 hour job just for the rears. The fronts weren't that bad but the struts themselves are expensive ($400......EACH).

Right now I have a fuel leak because GM's engineers are all ****ing retards. It's a 90 degree elbow made of plastic and broke at 30k miles. The dealer needs to drop the entire carrier and suspension to access it. The fuel basket/pump assembly is $400. The dealer want's something stupid like 3 grand in labor to fix it. I'll be cutting an access panel/hole in the rear floor pan with sheers to save time and money.

I'm having alignment issues in my car and as such have bought a new set of fronts every year for 5 years. As you can imagine tires on this car aren't cheap.

The brakes on this car are stupid expensive. I don't complain because that's the price of big huge 6 piston Brembos but still....for a daily driver that's expensive. Pads are $250 for each side on the fronts, and $70 each side on the rears. That's a total of $640 for pads. Sure there are other companies that make aftermarket stuff but the aftermarket for this cars isn't like that of the Mustang. Front rotors are $200-300 each. The aftermarket ones SUCK. They're terrible. I went with the most trusted aftermarket brakes and the squeal like race brakes. The fact is that the factory parts are the best option by a country mile.

I just did my taxes last Wednesday and I spent $4,000 in parts alone. Labor for what I did to the car as routine maintenance at $80k miles would have totaled another 10 grand.

Don't get me wrong. I love this car. I really do, it's amazing but two things can be true at once; the car is amazing and GM engineers are ****ing retards and parts are impossible to find, even factory parts. Many factory parts have national backorders or have been discontinued. Nothing is easy to fix and nothing is engineered well. They're a great modding platform but the aftermarket is really limited and OEM parts can be scarce.

The Germans aren't any better with cost and maintenance. I'm sure their part availability is better though. You're going to run into the same problem with the SS and G8 now that they're out of production.

That being said, I blew the doors off a GT350 last night with a table saw in the back so it's kinda worth it

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Blown 89

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I'm at a little over 31k and haven't had a problem with my 2014 sedan. (lucky me, I guess)

Aside from the disassembly of the interior on the wagon, if in fact correct, nothing else seems ridiculous. Maybe it's just me, but when you buy a low-mid $70k, low volume performance vehicle, it's reasonable to expect a high cost of ownership.

Suspension bushings, brakes, shocks/struts, tires are all wear items. On a capable, yet heavy car, these will wear more frequently.

There's always a cost of doing business. Adding exclusivity doesn't help.
I'm about to clock 100k and my problems really started between 30 and 50. I understand that bushings are wear items but there is no excuse for a design flaw to rip bushings that early in a car's life.

IMO there's a difference between high cost of ownership due to low numbers and high cost of ownership due to design flaws. The latter is inexcusable.
 

Stateguy

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I’ve been looking at ss’s and stumbled on the Lexus GSF. They’ve depreciated to an accessible level and the 5.0 v8 and trans have proven quite reliable in the ISF’s.


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