Pivot ball adjustment with Mcleod RXT results

[Torch04RedSnake]

So after googling quite a bit, i could never find a true answer to my question of how much to adjust the pivot ball with my particular setup, so i figured id share my info to whoever it may help. I had a Spec 3 and hated it, gripped really well but pedal effort was not streetable.

I installed the following:

Liberty 26 spline input shaft
Lethal Bearing Sleeve
FRPP Throw Out Bearing
Mcleod RXT clutch
New OEM clutch cable
Steeda Quick Release Quadrant
Lakewood Adjustable Pivot Ball
Anti Venom Mod
Amsoil Manual Transmission Fluid (Syncromesh 4 qts)

I resurfaced my stock flywheel. With this setup I adjusted my pivot ball 4.5 mm shorter than the stock pivot ball. This put my engagement point pretty close to stock about an inch off the floor. I adjusted my quadrant to put slight preload on my throw out bearing to keep it continuously spinning.

I am completely satisfied with the end result, the clutch pedal feel is feather light. There is slight chatter but nothing noticeable. I noticed only a slight difference with the "anti venom" mod. Now to drive 500 miles

Hope this helps someone!

 

[Bdubbs]

Good info, that 500 street miles sounds like alot! I'm not looking forward to doing it myself which will like take place at the end of april.

 

[Torch04RedSnake]

yeah 500 miles on the highway no prob, street miles thats another story.

 

[black 10th vert]

I think 500 miles is more than I drove the car altogether last season! Thanks for the info, because this is the same setup I plan to use when the time comes for me. I only have 15K on the car, and I'm not hard on the clutch, but the torque of the Whipple may break it eventually anyway.

 

[Torch04RedSnake]

I also had the shims for the input shaft but did not need them. I used black anaerobic sealant for automatic transmissions and have yet to see a drop come out of it. I just used a big hammer with a 2x4 to pop out the bearing sleeve and installed it with a big socket, slowly working it in.

 

[black 10th vert]

I also had the shims for the input shaft but did not need them. I used black anaerobic sealant for automatic transmissions and have yet to see a drop come out of it. I just used a big hammer with a 2x4 to pop out the bearing sleeve and installed it with a big socket, slowly working it in.

Yeah, I had read that one of the input shaft brands didn't usually require additional shimming, maybe it was the Liberty? I would want them on hand anyway, though, because it would suck to have everything ready to install only to find out the endplay was out of spec.

 

[601Mystic04]

Yeah, I had read that one of the input shaft brands didn't usually require additional shimming, maybe it was the Liberty? I would want them on hand anyway, though, because it would suck to have everything ready to install only to find out the endplay was out of spec.

I was told it was the D&D that's the one I bought but also got the shims just to make sure I didn't need em. The tool to do this is what I'm having trouble finding to get my end play. Does anyone know the exact specs on what the range should be?

 

[Torch04RedSnake]

Ive read on different post around here that you should shoot for less than .0005 so thats what i used as a reference.

I used my stock shim and was pretty close to nothing. The bearing races were a bit tricky to get back in, i just put some tranny fluid on mine and with patience, got it to slide back in easy. I also only added grease to my pivot ball and not the bearing sleeve before putting in the transmission.

 

[601Mystic04]

I am getting ready to do that same setup on mine except for the flywheel and pivot ball that's the only thing I didn't order I was wondering how it would help. I was thinking thats what it was on the end play but wasn't sure.

 

[Posi]

If it's "true" street driving in the city or just stop and go 250 miles should be plenty. That's what Mcleod told me when I installed my RXT anyways. We took the clutch out after a year of abuse (50+ powershifted track passes) and some street miles the clutch still looked new. Mcleod then told me that I broke the clutch in correctly.

I sure hope so because I drove the car like 8 hours in downtown Louisville, Ky. lol. Never going over 50mph.

 

[Torch04RedSnake]

I am getting ready to do that same setup on mine except for the flywheel and pivot ball that's the only thing I didn't order I was wondering how it would help. I was thinking thats what it was on the end play but wasn't sure.

The pivot ball and flywheel shouldnt affect your end play. Incorrect shimming of the input shaft will. The shims go underneath the bearing race on the front cover. I believe mine was .034 thick and worked just fine.

 

[Double-D]

So after googling quite a bit, i could never find a true answer to my question of how much to adjust the pivot ball with my particular setup, so i figured id share my info to whoever it may help.

I installed the following:

Mcleod RXT clutch


I resurfaced my stock flywheel. With this setup I adjusted my pivot ball 4.5 mm shorter than the stock pivot ball. This put my engagement point pretty close to stock about an inch off the floor. I adjusted my quadrant to put slight preload on my throw out bearing to keep it continuously spinning.

These transmissions vary this much? Some have used the same set-up (RXT with stock flywheel) but with the stock pivot ball and have similar engagement location (04 Sleeper comes to mind), 4.5mm is a big difference.

My transmission is out and was going to use the stock ball but....... Don't want to pull it back out if the adjustable ball was required.

Still baffled why some require a adjustable where others use the stock ball with same results. Sub'd for more answers of one verses the other.

 

[Termilvr]

i have pulled my trans a few time because it was to high, have it set 1/4in back now. Hopefully it will be where i want it when my car is all done. if not i will pull it again, now i can remove it fast so its not a big deal. I also have a fidanza flywheel and i think it is a little thicker than stock.

 

[Torch04RedSnake]

These transmissions vary this much? Some have used the same set-up (RXT with stock flywheel) but with the stock pivot ball and have similar engagement location (04 Sleeper comes to mind), 4.5mm is a big difference.

My transmission is out and was going to use the stock ball but....... Don't want to pull it back out if the adjustable ball was required.

Still baffled why some require a adjustable where others use the stock ball with same results. Sub'd for more answers of one verses the other.

Trust me, i wasnt looking forward to pulling mine in and out a dozen times to get it right, took me two tries and i got it to where im comfortable with it. This length worked for me, im not entirely sure how much they vary. I did read 04sleeper's post aswell, guess mine was a bit diff.??

 

[SVT_Troy]

this will be my next clutch forsure. I love reading the previous spec 3 users are happier after going to the RXT/RST

 

[601Mystic04]

Still wondering how to adjust the pivot ball in or out correctly I have the Mcleod Rxt with the Mcleod aluminum flywheel going to be installed just waiting on that lakewood pivot ball to get here.

 

[Torch04RedSnake]

Still wondering how to adjust the pivot ball in or out correctly I have the Mcleod Rxt with the Mcleod aluminum flywheel going to be installed just waiting on that lakewood pivot ball to get here.

Its a tough call, my reasoning behind it was i figured the twin disc would be thicker so i need to push it in to bring down my engagement point. I started at 3mm shorter, took it back out and went to 4.5-5mm. Mine sits perfect

 

[wickedsnake03]

Just did mine about a month ago. Have not got to start driving it cause of the weather here in PA yet. but here was my results.

McLeod RXT with McLeod steel flywheel. Lakewood adjustable pivot ball. Since I seen alot of people start 1/4 shorter thats where I started. And that was way way wrong. Mine ended up being the stock height.

Only thing I can think is.

1. McLeod changed something with the clutch, and depending what batch yours came from it changes things.

2. Maybe the differences in firewall adjusters, Or where you start with your firewall adjuster.

 

[SnakeBit]

When you bolt up the tranny to the engine, with the TOB up against the pressure plate, you want your clutch arm to sit between the center of the opening (the clutch arm sticks out of) and the rear edge of the opening.

If the clutch arm sits too far forward, you may run out of travel before the clutch is disengaged. If it sits too far towards the rear of the car, it may hit the rear edge before the clutch is fully engaged. Unfortunately, this is the best way to check. If too far forward, you have to pull out the transmission and make the pivot longer. Too far to the rear and you make the pivot shorter.

 

[601Mystic04]

Thanks for that info I'm feel better about tackling the clutch & pivot ball adjustment. I have a quadrant and a micro click adjuster I'm gonna go ahead and install this while I wait on the pivot ball. I just bought this clutch & flywheel last week so whenever I get my results I'll post em up. I'm also gonna mic the stock flywheels versus the McLeod one to see differences.