Pinion seal guidance needed

[5.0 Hatch]

I'm in the middle of changing my opinion seal that's been leaking for some time and ran into what may or may not be a snag.

First, the pinion nut and everything around it was completely covered in rtv. I assume the previous owner did this to slow the leak. I removed all of the rtv and when I went to remove the nut, it was not torqued down at all. I could have removed it with a 1/4" ratchet. I still counted the rounds when removing but how do I go about reinstalling and torquing it? I may be overthinking it since from what I read, it takes a lot of torque to crush the crush washer.

How much torque should I put on it during the reinstall and do I use locktite?

Also, the diff was completely silent before I started so apparently the rtv is what saved the nut from backing off.

 

[01yellercobra]

The correct way would be to use a torque wrench to check the preload by spinning the pinion as you tighten it. But you have to pull the diff out for that to work. You might get away with snugging it up until there's no play, but the problem with that is you might push the crush sleeve past it's proper preload.

JMO, but if the nut was that loose I would pull the center section and check the bearings. Chances are the pinion bearing is on it's way out and you'll be here again in a few thousand miles. That's what happened to me. I ended up replacing the bearings and using a pinion spacer in place of the crush sleeve.

 

[MG0h3]

As mentioned above, pinion bearings might have taken a beating with the loose nut, but if the pinion yoke wasn’t actually moving around, they should be fine.

Regarding tightening the nut back down, whack it with an impact. Get the nut started and then give it full power. Just don’t sit there hammering on it when it’s tight.
I’ve never been able to crush a sleeve with an impact, but it is possible I suppose. Did many of these when I was a tech.

There is no way in hell anybody is going to pay labor for a full diff rebuild for a pinion seal. Alldata paid like 1.2hrs or something for a pinion seal R&R.


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[Bullitt1448]

Any shiny stuff in the diff oil? If there is any at all, you’re going to have to pull it apart. If you wanted to be really sure, send a sample for analysis. If the bearings are the least worn now, they will not last long and you will be again. The pinion is pretty snug on the outer bearing, to the point it needs a couple of smacks to get it out. Personally I would pull it apart and look at it. The nut should be torqued so that while turning the pinion only (no ring gear, so the centre has to come out first, and no pinion seal) I believe the drag should be 16-25 in/lb. There is no spec for the torque of the nut to the pinion. As others have mentioned, in real life, to change the pinion seal, most just out with the old, in with the new and give it a couple uga duggas and let ‘er go. Not the proper way but it will work for awhile. Bottom line is you know some one else worked on it, you k ow what the proper fix is, tear it down now get a solid spacer kit from Jegs do it right and you will be leak free.