pilot bearing?

Keith 5.0

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I'm having a problem somewhere in my drivetrain and I'm not sure what the problem is.

I recently installed a new forged engine and bolted up the clutch/ flywheel/ tranny outside of the engine bay. The clutch is the same spec 2 that was in there before, and the flywheel is also the same stock flywheel, just resurfaced. For some dumb reason, I re-used the pilot bearing and throw out bearing that came out, which had about 10k on 'em.

After filling the tranny and installing the shifter, I tried shifting through the gears with the car in the air. The clutch pedal felt perfect, just as it did before the engine swap, but I couldn't get it into each gear as easily as I used to. It was nearly impossible to get it into reverse. When I put the car on the ground and tried to drive it, I couldn't get into any gear, it would just grind. I tried putting the car in gear with the car off, then starting it with the clutch in, and the car would lurch forward a good 4-6 feet (even with my foot holding the brake to the floor)

What could have caused this? The only thing that comes to mind for me is when I put the clutch plate in, I didn't use a torque wrench and maybe I over-torqued it. I've already taken everything apart (except for taking the pilot bearing out) and everything looks fine. The pilot bearing doesn't spin freely anymore, think it might have seized somehow? Any ideas before I put everything together again?
 

green99_svt

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was the pilot removed from the crank and reinstalled? it should spin freely mabe it was damaged during machine work or may have seized. replace it.

easy removal meathod. pack bearing with grease put an old input shaft or clutch alignment tool into pilot hole. hit with hammer and it should pop out.
 

quick01snake

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Keith 5.0 said:
I tried putting the car in gear with the car off, then starting it with the clutch in, and the car would lurch forward a good 4-6 feet (even with my foot holding the brake to the floor)

it really sound like the clutch isn't disengaging...check all the components from the pedal, quadrant, cable, all the way to the clutch fork, and have someone push the clutch and verify the clutch fork is moving several inches...may just be a problem of adjustment...
 

Keith 5.0

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green99_svt said:
was the pilot removed from the crank and reinstalled? it should spin freely mabe it was damaged during machine work or may have seized. replace it.

easy removal meathod. pack bearing with grease put an old input shaft or clutch alignment tool into pilot hole. hit with hammer and it should pop out.

yes, the pilot bearing was removed prior to taking it to the machine shop. I thought the pilot bearing was supposed to be lubed up before putting the tranny in, so I put some grease in there. Maybe that damaged the bearing somehow :??:
 

duane v

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The pilot bearing was probably damaged during the removal process, especially if you used a 2-jaw slide-hammer to remove it..The needle bearings will get damaged...A new pilot bearing only runs $15.00, at the very least you should have installed a new throw-out bearing, pilot bearing and clutch release fork, all combined would be less than $100...

Also the spec clutch isn't know for its longevity, especially one that has 10k miles on it, once its removed from its original break-in environment anything can happen when its re-installed, .. IMO, I would have replaced it with a new clutch assembly, but thats me..I would have also replaced the FW with a better aftermarket unit prior to the engine break-down and sent the crank and the FW together to your engine builder to be zero balanced together..sure its a little more money, but its well worth the investment.

At this point, and from saving you the possibility of having to yank it out for a 3rd time, just replace everything, with exception of the FW...good-luck...DA snake boy!!!

Prices and torque specs

FW = 63 ftlb
PP = 25-27 ftlb

Pilot Bearing = $15
Ford Clutch release fork = $30
Mcleod TOB = $45
Grade 8 PP bolts = $3
Red loctite = $4
 

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