Phoenix area guru for electrical problems?

[Brendan Courtney]

I was in the same prediciment with a Mechman Alt and new battery. I had issues with that "A" circuit, no feedback going back. It was the battery light and key positions not matching that helped me ID my issue.

After checking voltages it seems like the “I” circuit is higher in voltage than it should be, I’m getting 11v vs. the 6v it says I should be getting.

 

[*Jay*]

What key position, is there a fault indicator (batt light on) and which test failed. Have you had your battery and alt checked yet??? You may still have a bad regulator even tho its a new high dollar alternator.

Also if you havent done it already follow this link and download the ESM, its where those pages I uploaded came from.

SVT Documents

 

[Brendan Courtney]

What key position, is there a fault indicator (batt light on) and which test failed. Have you had your battery and alt checked yet??? You may still have a bad regulator even tho its a new high dollar alternator.

Also if you havent done it already follow this link and download the ESM, its where those pages I uploaded came from.

SVT Documents

No battery light, it’s on and off per test requirements. I’ll take it in for a test and see what they say. I’ll down load the link later. Thanks for your help I’ll keep you posted.

 

[hotcobra03]

The main ground at motor mount
I had the stud snap


It didn’t fall out and caused intermittent charging and battery light to stay on.

You can run a jumper line from battery to engine for testing to see if a ground is causing issues

On mine. I also never see 14v inside car. I did at battery.

I found the small ground wire from battery to radiator support burned up inside. After replacing that with a large wire I now see 14v constantly in car.

I do have a orielys rebuilt alt